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surprised it took 150k miles but then it wouldn't be a landrover if didn't throw in the odd surprise.
Should be checked regularly to avoid such surprises ....
surprised it took 150k miles but then it wouldn't be a landrover if didn't throw in the odd surprise.
I'd imagine a bad batch of HT bolts, or initial overtensioning leading to fatigue failure, as said a common fail, new correct grade bolt, fitted and not over stressed and use a loctite thread locker, should see it right, the puny little chain looks like it would be a risk on a bicycle, what happened to good old gear drive, but I guess it is what it is.I take it you don't mean taking the sump off regularly?
Just a comment on the puny chain drives on a lot of hi tech engines these days, BMW diesels, Td5's, seem to have an issue, I ran XJ Jag engines for years and although the 2 stage timing chains stretched and rattled a bit after lots of work as far as I know they were not prone to breaking.Do you have a pic of the inside of your sump? Interested to see if the oil pump bolt chewed into the sump, which then caused it to sheer.
Chain drive oil pumps are pretty common, Honda's use them, nothing inherently wrong with them, as long as they are designed properly!
Mark
I'd imagine a bad batch of HT bolts, or initial overtensioning leading to fatigue failure, as said a common fail,
The "normal" issue with the TD5 that leads to a failure like this, is normally the bolt unscrews. Historically a number of earlier cars appear to have been assembled with no threadlock on the bolt. Although a number of newer '02 / '03 MY, do appear to have the same issue and have had similar failures.
For the sake of a few hours, and has been suggested a number of times on this site is to check and verify / replace the bolt with a new one that has the threadlock already fitted as per the link posted in post #2..........
Cheers
well that was fun.
Found a few bits in the sump but I think the pump survived.
View attachment 122059 View attachment 122060
Looks like the bolt came loose and sheered off.
Once I get it runing again I will tackle the brakes.
Thanks for the advice.
I take it you don't mean taking the sump off regularly?
I'd imagine a bad batch of HT bolts, or initial overtensioning leading to fatigue failure, as said a common fail, new correct grade bolt, fitted and not over stressed and use a loctite thread locker, should see it right, the puny little chain looks like it would be a risk on a bicycle, what happened to good old gear drive, but I guess it is what it is.
From what I'm seeing, some one on the engine assembly line was not on the ball, are all Td5's afflicted with this little oversight or did LR finally figure out that a RH thread in a place where a LH thread or mechanical lock tab should be was a bad design?A lack of locktite type adhesive on the bolt on original assembly, but I have heard of new replacement bolts from LR, with yellow adhesive already on them failing too .
If you put your own threadlock on, remember to clean and degrease the bolt and hole and I usually wait 24hrs before refilling.
From what I'm seeing, some one on the engine assembly line was not on the ball, are all Td5's afflicted with this little oversight or did LR finally figure out that a RH thread in a place where a LH thread or mechanical lock tab should be was a bad design?
Thread locker technology saves the day again, the degrease idea is essential and they have excellent primers to use where scrupulously clean is not possible.
Can't even begin to imagine how many Td5's must have been destroyed by this oil pump drive failure, can't run an engine long without oil circulation.
Me thinks you got that right!There is a design doodit that shuts the engine down if the oil pump fails, but I'm sure that may be SLOW in reacting.
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