Oil Pump.....Do they need to bed in??

either

put the original in, if its not broken then don't fix it......

OK front cover is on with original pump and original cover, taken off main bearing no4 and it is showing copper so they are on their way south.

Just gotta fit the sump, fan and belt. Fill with oil and coolant and job done!

Lets see what happens!

Its 01.40 in the morning and I am having to take the front cover off again as the drive gear for the pump has slipped no allowing me to fit the crank pulley, which is a bitch as that is the last part to fit before the belt and fan.....FECKING BUGGER ARSE FECK.......

Saint.V8 said:

OK front cover is on with original pump and original cover, taken off main bearing no4 and it is showing copper so they are on their way south.

Just gotta fit the sump, fan and belt. Fill with oil and coolant and job done!

Lets see what happens!

Click to expand...

they arent on the way south ,they have reached the pole and youve found one of the reasons oil pressure is low, i wouldnt bother refitting front cover its just a waste of time

jamesmartin said:

they arent on the way south ,they have reached the pole and youve found one of the reasons oil pressure is low, i wouldnt bother refitting front cover its just a waste of time

Click to expand...

Cheers JM but cover is on just gotta put fluids in andhead home!

The reason it had to come off again is because the inner drve of the pump slipped out and as i did up the crank bolt it pushed the pump gear through the rearplate photo attached

Tired now!

All done, fluids filled and just got in at 5.19am....

If the buggery arse pump drive sprocket hadn't have moved forward, then jammed in the inner pump gear, then forced the rear plate to break, it would have been done by 2.30am....home by 3am with no traffic at this time of day!!

Instead it went like this.....
Belts off
Pulley off
Sump off
Cover off
Inspect
Rebuild old cover with old gears, old pressure switch
Refit old cover
Refit sump
Fit pulley
Break pump cover plate
Swear and spit
Sump off cover off
Rebuild old cover with new gears and replacement TCC pump rear plate
Refit cover
Refit sump
Refit pulleys
Refit belt
Push off ramp
Push outside
Fill with coolant
Fill with oil
Start engine
Cheer like mad when the oil light goes off after 20 seconds
Clean workshop
Lock workshop and offices
Drive home
Write this
Get 45 minutes shut eye before getting up for work at 6.15am

Joys of Range Rover ownership....

Night all and thanks for the support and well wishes!

Hope you took the numbers off the shell's so you can order new one's if the crank is ok. If the crank is scored then its crank out and regrind.

I started coming on this forum about 5 years ago for the RRC content (which was at least 50% then). I have a knackered SORNd RRC which has waited forlornly for attention for far too long.

Now RRC content is relatively sparse and L322s seems to be taking over from P38s. But I still come on here several times a day.

Why? I don't have a P38 or even a L322. I have no need to understand the intricacies and foibles of EAS etc etc.

The answer is simple.

It's because I stand in awe of the dedication, commitment and technical knowledge and skills of members such as Saint.V8, Wammers, Datatek and the many others who are too numerous to mention. The people who rise to the challenge presented by their beloved cars and are so willing to share their experiences so freely with others.

Well done all, and especially to Ant for his blow-by-blow account of his latest struggles.

Keep it up and I shall continue to watch this forum closely!

Good luck Ant!

Pete

Sorry Ant, IMO the bearings are fecked.

Sorry to hear the news - I have a spare set of new shells (standard) I'd like to get rid of (and a camshaft).

Bought but never used.

Saint.V8 said:

Cheers JM but cover is on just gotta put fluids in andhead home!

The reason it had to come off again is because the inner drve of the pump slipped out and as i did up the crank bolt it pushed the pump gear through the rearplate photo attached

Tired now!

Click to expand...

your not going to run that engine surely

jamesmartin said:

your not going to run that engine surely

Click to expand...

The crank must be rumbling like a orphan belly.

What's the verdict Ant?

Pete The Biker said:

I started coming on this forum about 5 years ago for the RRC content (which was at least 50% then). I have a knackered SORNd RRC which has waited forlornly for attention for far too long.

Now RRC content is relatively sparse and L322s seems to be taking over from P38s. But I still come on here several times a day.

Why? I don't have a P38 or even a L322. I have no need to understand the intricacies and foibles of EAS etc etc.

The answer is simple.

It's because I stand in awe of the dedication, commitment and technical knowledge and skills of members such as Saint.V8, Wammers, Datatek and the many others who are too numerous to mention. The people who rise to the challenge presented by their beloved cars and are so willing to share their experiences so freely with others.

Well done all, and especially to Ant for his blow-by-blow account of his latest struggles.

Keep it up and I shall continue to watch this forum closely!

Good luck Ant!

Pete

Click to expand...

Cheers Pete......very kind words.

Without the support and guidance of this site and the wonderful members who post here, my Range Rover ownsership experience would be empty....

For me the Range Rover is my dream vehicle, I have liked Range Rover and its parent brad, Land Rover, since is was a snotty nosed 6 year old, and I have always wanted to own and work on them.

If our community on this forum can help others who were similarly a 6 year old kid in awe of their dream vehicle and then come to a point in their lives where they can actually afford or have the ability to own them, if mine/all of our assistance can help them to own their dream car without constant worry over what does this noise mean, why is it doing that.....

When I first bought my L322, I was over the moon riding high and it represented a huge amount of trust from my partner as we didn't really have the money to splash out on such an expensive car....on the first day it went into fault....my heart sank, I had that sick feeling in my stomach of 'oh feck, what the feck have I done.....?' but with the help and support of those on here gave me the encouragement to face it and deal with it.....to live my dream.

Many on here say they have always dreamed of owning a Range Rover (as I did) and yet it seems to be a nightmare.....if I can help them to turn that nightmare back into a dream again by offering advice, giving the benefit of my experience, walking people through my issues and troubles then with luck they can see the same support and encouragement I received when I first joined the forum.

Get that Classic on the road, then take the plunge and get another! Dreams and nightmares....we are all in it together!

tomcat59alan said:

Hope you took the numbers off the shell's so you can order new one's if the crank is ok. If the crank is scored then its crank out and regrind.

Click to expand...

Crank was smooth on the bearing I took off thankfully no scoring or grooves could be felt!! Nearly dislocated my shoulder trying to undo the bolts though...man they were tight! Didn't get any numbers...no idea they were numbered....what do the numbers mean?? Never done mains or big ends before so never researched what it is all about!!

Datatek said:

Sorry Ant, IMO the bearings are fecked.

Click to expand...

Yep, as JM said, they aren't just heading south, they are there already, pitched a tent and eating ice cream!!

Never done a big job like that before...I have only ever worked on the top half of the engine before....changing the mains and big ends is a little daunting to me, as it means gearbox off and/or engine out! First for me!

SpiggyTopes said:

Sorry to hear the news - I have a spare set of new shells (standard) I'd like to get rid of (and a camshaft).

Bought but never used.

Click to expand...

Shipping to the UK would be quite expensive me thinks, but I appreciate you kind offer....will have to research what the different sizes mean and how to determine what size is required!

jamesmartin said:

your not going to run that engine surely

Click to expand...

'fraid so.....kinda have too, will keep and eye on oil quality, do 3 month changes (if it is going to last that long!! nd see what is what in the new year. (see reply to Wammers below)

wammers said:

The crank must be rumbling like a orphan belly.

Click to expand...

The engine is smooth and rumble free, she does tick a tad at idle, but that I have always put down to a dicky tappet/lifter....

The engine revs freely, doesn't grumble/rumble/shake/knock or shimmy which is why I have never suspected the mains or big ends until I took one off last night....so it did take me a little by surprise.

So I will run this engine until I decide what to do....buy a second engine and rebuild to refit or if to take this Range Rover off the road and rebuild what I have, does mean I have to drive the girlfriends bright yellow Fiat 500 as she won't give up the L322 now she has it back again!

So I will be the butt of a few jokes at work if that happens....

tomcat59alan said:

What's the verdict Ant?

Click to expand...

The Oil pressure is restored unless idling for longer than 3 minutes or so, and even then the light just flickers, a slight increase in idle and she goes off....I do suspect my idle is a little low in anycase as in Neutral she sits around 550-600 mark.

As above, short term is to run her until I figure out the ins and outs of bearing change and what is involved, how long it will take me, when is best to do it etc.....in the longer term find a replacement engine and rebuild to refit or rebuild the current power unit!

All I can say is watch this space!

The shells should have a set of numbers and possible +10, +20 etc. these will identify the shell internal diameter so you can fit like for like. If the crank is not scored don't drive it to much and you will probably get away with replacing the shells. Do one main at a time and make sure the crank turns over smoothly before going on to the next one. Best take the plugs out to make it easier for yourself.

tomcat59alan said:

The shells should have a set of numbers and possible +10, +20 etc. these will identify the shell internal diameter so you can fit like for like. If the crank is not scored don't drive it to much and you will probably get away with replacing the shells. Do one main at a time and make sure the crank turns over smoothly before going on to the next one. Best take the plugs out to make it easier for yourself.

Click to expand...

Can they be replaced with engine and crank in-situ??

Saint.V8 said:

Can they be replaced with engine and crank in-situ??

Click to expand...

Yes, take off the bearing cap that's the easy one. A copper rivet of appropriate size is placed in the oil drilling in the crank and turned so the head of the rivet pushes the top half shell around till it can be removed. Replacement is the reverse. Remember there is a location notch on the shell so turn the crank in the right direction

Pity you didn't get the numbers off the shells, Ebay STC4299 (Think they are standard) £21.89