oil leak from gearbox?

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Bemble said:
Loony,

I’ve put a pack of the rear shims in the post for you. You should get them on Friday.


Regarding the front one, I’ll have a look through the bearing catalogues (INA’s probably the best bet) to see if I can find anything of a similar size that it might be possible to grind down. Surely they’ll be through-hardened at this thickness?

What were you quoted £110 for? Was it a full set of the various sizes?

Phil
Click to expand...

hi Phil, thanks for sending those out, can i paypal you or bank transfer you for those. i am away all week, just finished work.. and have very poor internet, but loony is all over it as you can see, i would just be in the way anyway.
the price from JPAT was for 0730-109-665 @£11.48 + vat each, minimum quantity of 10 pieces as non stock uk item and 10-14 days delivery.

if we can grind something down on a surface grinder we could grind the back and leave the hardened bearing surface i guess?
i would prefer to purchase the zf item if i can if we could get ZF to tell us where they have sold them.
i read one of your older posts somewhere and the guy from the usa 'popped' to his local zf dealer and picked one up off the shelf.

is this the longest thread in history yet?
cheers
Andy
 
Didn’t have much success with the INA catalogue I’m afraid. The nearest standard size seems to be 55x78x5 – with the existing 5HP24 input shim/race having an i/d = 55.25 & o/d = 73.00mm

INALS5578_zpsa21daa7f.jpg


INAWS81111_zps125b0a20.jpg


According to ZF’s ELCAT part list, the axial bearing that runs against the shim is manufactured by INA, the description being “57,9x75,0x3,8 FA.INA”

Phil
 
Actually this imperial size is quite close :

INATWC3446_zpsc40974b1.jpg


The washer/shim locates on its bore (the spigot on the stator shaft is around 55.05mm diameter) so would need opening out by just over 1mm, but the o/d is correct and the thickness starting point is 2.34mm rather than 5mm (much less grinding :)). Having said that, I can’t see why a bigger o/d than 73mm wouldn’t fit anyway – it’s just in fresh air with nothing obviously restricting it. Certainly 78mm looks to me like it would fit.

This all assumes of course that these axial washers are available and are less expensive than the ZF parts!

Phil
 
Hi Phil,

Thanks for all your efforts so far.

Got this email from JPAT today

Hello Jason

I have looked for good used for this – but we have nothing.

ZF supply as a washer kit – you have to buy a set of all selective washers from 1.4mm to 3.00mm, as far as I can make out - going up 0.2mm each – so 8 washers in total I think.

Unfortunately - this is not cheap at - £106.27 + VAT.

They have no stock in UK – so would have to come from Germany – at least 7 days – if they stock in Germany.

I will ask if they have in Germany if you want to proceed.

Sorry I can’t be more help.

Thanks

Regards,



Bruce Palmer



JP (Automatic Transmissions) Ltd

4a & 4b Pear Tree Industrial Estate

Upper Langford

Bristol BS40 5DJ

ENGLAND

Tel +44 (0) 1934 852772

Fax +44 (0) 1934 852211
Click to expand...

Andy 'might' have sussed it as regards the input shim, he contacted Sussex auto today and they say that they can get the part number we have been quoting for a reasonable price, which is around £10 within 4 days from ZF.

However, until it is in my hands and measures up right, I am not going to jinx it just yet.

It is certainly worth finding some alternatives if the price does end up being £110+. Apparently this price is for a selective shim set of all the various sizes so it might be useful somewhere down the road.

Something else is,

would it be advisable to replace the axial bearing that will run on this new shim/race?

Thanks
 
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Thanks men, back tomorrow night for serious googling
i have ordered the part from sussex but as loony says i wont believe it until i see it.

Phil, i'll try and track down the axial bearing washers from your post as a back up as i am not confident that ZF wont pull the plug on me only ordering 1 part and it being the correct part.
i can get it modified no problem i'm sure, thanks for the info, i tried looking myself and got nothing

Saint, the post aint over yet, there is still plenty of potential left in this battle:)

all the new gaskets and pipework turns up tomorrow so that will keep us(loony) busy for a bit
thanks
Andy
 
Simply Bearings Ltd

Typed TWC3446 into simply bearings and got a TRC3446 but internet is so poor i cant check any further but the dimensions look the same
might be worth a punt....
they refer to it as a needle roller thrust washer, i would only purchase something if it was from a good manufacturer..
stand by
 
Phil, I had a bit of trouble getting the old bearing out of the F Brake.

The shoulder inside the aluminium housing looked like the shoulder of the bearing and after knocking it out a piece of the alloy broke off.

It is about 10mm to 15mm of the shoulder missing. I don't think it will be a problem supporting the new bearing.

I have cleaned it up the best I can and it does not appear to have damaged any of what's left.



I need to confirm that the roller bearing sits in the housing with the stamped part numbers up. so the rounded edge would go into the housing and rest on the alloy shoulder. the numbers would be visible once the circlip is removed?

the bearing also has a T on it maybe indicating that is the top surface to sit under the circlip.

219 in the picture



thanks
 
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Yes, the end with the part marking should be directly underneath the clip and the more rounded end goes in first and sits against the shoulder.

HK3512_zpsd236a1a1.jpg


Phil
 
Phil is a legend, loony is a diamond, I am the weakest link..
We are going for it tomorrow ..
The new bearing is going in and the input shim was correct from Sussex autos and was about £10 so good result there. Phil sorted us out on the output shim.
As long as all measures up ok as far as end float we are away.
Stand by
 
myfirstl322 said:
You can surely offset the savings in fuel against the parts bill..
Are/have you bothered renewing crank seal?
Click to expand...

not sure how much fuel i will save but you never know

we have replaced the crankshaft oil seal, the other water jacket gaskets at the rear, the two heater tube o rings, the crankcase breather pipes that were totally shot
the engine belts, the oil cooler, pipes, oil cooler stat and mount, engine oil and gearbox oil (twice) and filters, gearbox sump pan, antifreeze/coolant, exhaust mount nuts replaced with stainless steel, B and F clutch plates, torque converter reconditioned, transmission service kit, transfer box oil and input seal and o ring, clutch bolts, we made the piston ring compressors, i am sure there is more. i do intend on keeping the car so i am playing the long game.

my credit card will go into melt down soon.......

so in answer to your first comment, providing it now does 850 miles to the gallon i should get my money back soon after the worlds fossil fuels run out.:D

i am definitely not complaining, i went into this knowing these are not cheap cars so hopefully what i change now will buy me a bit of long term reliability, well until the next project. lets face it, if it had been on the road for the last month it would have cost me the same in fuel anyway and look at all the fun we have had:confused:
 
holidaychicken said:
........
I am definitely not complaining, i went into this knowing these are not cheap cars so hopefully what i change now will buy me a bit of long term reliability, well until the next project. lets face it, if it had been on the road for the last month it would have cost me the same in fuel anyway and look at all the fun we have had:confused:
Click to expand...
Now that is the attitude of a truly deserving Range Rover owner....

Maybe I should modify the Golden Rule to Range Rover purchasing and ownership to include a statement to similar effect as Andy has above...

I am following this thread with baited breath, good luck for the next couple of days, I'll have my fingers crossed for you!
 
well here goes...
we thrashed ourselves all weekend and its all back together, however and its a big however, an old fault has reared its ugly head again.

the damn thing wont start, its the same issue i had before when i disconnected the battery before and the engine control ecu loses its sync with the immobiliser and it will crank fine but will not start. i have the same all comms fault in the engine control module and last time it had to be recovered to a main dealer who only charged me half an hours labour to reprogram it but its a total pain getting it there especially as we cant even top up the gearbox or bleed the coolant system.
it seems that when i disconnect the battery it loses its programming.

immob1_zps347ad86d.jpg


un-chuffing-believable :mad:
 
What a ****er, well done getting her all back together, my ignition was once left on for hours and even after charging battery for a while and attatching booster to it, it would not even try to start... the screen had a weird protocol come up with an option to 'Activate' or 'Deactivate', and a 4 digit code request, shat myself... set to 1111 and activated and she fired up as if nothing ever happened,, immobiliser or something probably.
Not quite your issue but just thought i'd throw it into the mix.. Good luck and hopefully someone here can help.
 
myfirstl322 said:
What a ****er, well done getting her all back together, my ignition was once left on for hours and even after charging battery for a while and attatching booster to it, it would not even try to start... the screen had a weird protocol come up with an option to 'Activate' or 'Deactivate', and a 4 digit code request, shat myself... set to 1111 and activated and she fired up as if nothing ever happened,, immobiliser or something probably.
Not quite your issue but just thought i'd throw it into the mix.. Good luck and hopefully someone here can help.
Click to expand...

Thanks, i've spoken to my local main dealer who reprogrammed it last time for me and i'm hoping they will come out with their testbook laptop and get it to fire up, they said they will call me when they can give me a time to simply get it to start so everything is crossed for that to happen. they said it doesn't normally happen to L322's so i am wondering if either my immobiliser or engine ECU is partially shot.
:smash:
 
A bothersome hurdle,

It will be worth it when it drives perfectly as i'm sure it will, and you and loony can swap coffee for something stronger in celebration.:5bcheers2:
 
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