oil leak from gearbox?

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The Mad Hat Man said:
yu do wot????? :eek:
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The top hose on the BMW M62 is connected to the Alternator cooling jacket and a plethora of other bits buried down there somewhere, so I take the top hose off the rad and pour coolant down there until it over flows and I also fill the rad through that point too...that way the top hose (and its connections) and the Rad up to the stat and bottom hose and GB oil cooler is filled just to try and minimise the amount of air in the system. :D
 
loony said:
Bemble, further down the line when we come to start the engine for the first time since all the work,

how do you suggest we go about that? considering that the TC is empty, the heat exchange pipes/heat exchanger will be empty, along with pretty much everything in the gearbox apart from assembly oil we have squirted around.

I could take some time to prime some of the components.

I am wondering if there is a way to turn the engine over using the starter motor but not have it fire up. usually I could just pull the King lead but this thing looks a lot more complicated.
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The transmission pump will be shifting the fluid at a rate of nearly 50 litres/minute. You really don’t need to worry about that. Just fill it from cold as far as the filler/level plug will allow before starting the engine. Run the engine for a few seconds and then top up again. Finally set the level, with the engine ticking over, when the fluid temperature reaches 40 deg. C (after having moved the gearshift lever through each position in turn, and holding for a few seconds in each, to get the valve block and hydraulic clutch lines full)

loony said:
I can get to the front crank nut to rotate the engine which I will have to do to fit the TC to the flywheel.

I need to check that engine rotates clock wise as you look at the pulley on the front?
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Yep, they all do (well, except for early Hondas anyway)

loony said:
Also once the engine is running and we have the oil level right in the gearbox, I have to calibrate the Transfer box as I have had to remove the motor to see if it was working.

Any potential issues with that? I don't want to mess the motor up seeing at LR quoted £1700 for a new one.
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That shouldn't be necessary, as long as it's still in the same range it was when you removed it (i.e. either high or low). When you switch on the ignition the transfer box ECU will drive the motor so that the shift fork hits the stop at the end of its travel for whichever range it was in when the ignition was last turned off. This should provide the necessary re-calibration.

Phil
 
Thanks All for the replies.

Phil, Andy sent an email about the shim sizes for the gearbox. for reference:

Shim in is 1.8mm on the input so we need a 2.0mm shim to make the float 0.3mm 0730-109-665

Shim in is 3.2mm on the output shaft so we need a 3.4mm shim to make float 0.3mm 0730-105-275
 
Thanks from me too, i've been a bit tied up with work so leaving it to the brains of the outfit.
One other question regarding the coolant, we drained out about 8 litres of orange/pink coolant and was wondering whether to reuse that but we would need to top up and i'm unsure what type it is after searching the net. if we replace the lot it seems really expensive unless it dilutes.

the service schedule is a total joke and i was told it had a service before i bought it but the oil filter looked like it was the original from 2004..

thanks for all the input, the end is in sight:)
 
Saint.V8 said:
Just use the pink coolant available any decent autofactors and dilute as per the instructions, this is usually 50/50 mix...

You should Never mix blue and pink anitfreeze....
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thanks saint, good to hear from you again. is the pink coolant what they call OAT? the 50/50 mix is a relief, i was thinking it was a ready mix that you just pour in and at £35 for 5 litres and a capacity of 18 litres.......
 
holidaychicken said:
thanks saint, good to hear from you again. is the pink coolant what they call OAT? the 50/50 mix is a relief, i was thinking it was a ready mix that you just pour in and at £35 for 5 litres and a capacity of 18 litres.......
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I believe it is OAT that is pink...

Cant wait to hear if all your hardwork will solve your vibration issues....

Told yer Phil was a fecking genius :D
 
Saint.V8 said:
I believe it is OAT that is pink...

Cant wait to hear if all your hardwork will solve your vibration issues....

Told yer Phil was a fecking genius :D
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thanks, i'll have a look for the pink.
it will probably turn out to be a loose steering wheel:D

i don't think Phil is of this world quite frankly, i will try and repay him somehow

my mate loony aint a bad sort either, dont tell him though, so far its only costing me coffee and fags;)
 
This will be a bit vague until I can get the photos sorted.








bit concerned about some oil near to the starter motor. there is a 5 or 6mm hex grub screw (HP1?) LYB000120 in the block that maybe leaking. I assume this is a plug that can be removed and resealed.


restrictorandplugs_zps7189a0f3.jpeg
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Think It could be the busted pipe work above has allowed oil to flow into the bell housing and been swilled around by the starter and flywheel.

If the plug has nothing but a blocking function from the machining process I will pull it and seal it.
 
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Phil, if andy hasn't contacted you already its seems that these shims are available in 10 packs only unless we can find someone who happens to have these shims sitting in a draw somewhere.

contacted ZF uk and they just put me onto dealers, contacted landrover and they don't sell a selective shim only a stock size but I might just order one and see what we get as its 93p.

Could you send a landrover shim 3.4mm 0730-105-275 please and I will keep searching for the input shaft shim.
 
Another question Phil, what do you think to grinding the existing shim down 0.5mm and then getting a 0.7mm shim made to go under it?

Is this advisable seeing as it is a race? We both have contacts in machining/engineering.

Difficult to justify £110+ for one shim and the fact andy has already spent so much on the car.

I have posted on other forums that use ZF5HP24 see if anyone has been down this road already and has some spares.
 
It is an option but the risks involved if it fails? I know they are slim but I think andy would take out a second mortgage/sell one of my kidneys to get the right shim/race to be honest.
 
loony said:
It is an option but the risks involved if it fails? I know they are slim but I think andy would take out a second mortgage/sell one of my kidneys to get the right shim/race to be honest.
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i built a good few boxes but never yours so cant say ,obviously depends on its fitting ,trapped between a housing and a bearing is ok , but free to spin as you get with needle thrust bearing between clutch poacks and epicyclics is different
 
Loony,

I’ve put a pack of the rear shims in the post for you. You should get them on Friday.

TLM000030_zpsdec3e319.jpg


Regarding the front one, I’ll have a look through the bearing catalogues (INA’s probably the best bet) to see if I can find anything of a similar size that it might be possible to grind down. Surely they’ll be through-hardened at this thickness?

What were you quoted £110 for? Was it a full set of the various sizes?

Phil
 
Thanks Phil,

The £110+ as I believe from andys comms with Jpat is a 10 pack of one size shim. I sent email today asking for a quote on the Jpat cat number 185210BC
as they were not answering the phone after 5pm.

worked out at £11 each, though for that money I would expect a bearing too.

I would expect the shim/race to be fully hardened too. We have access to surface grinders in a couple of different companies round the UK.

I think andys plan, if we can't find one, is to order the 10 and ship 9 to you for your stock and all your efforts so far.

Thanks Again.
 
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