Oil Change TD4

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A

APenn

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Going to do a oil change on my TD4 any advise. Do I need to remove the bash plate?
I am also going to change the crank breather fillter again any advise.
 
yep, you need to remove the engine cover and the sump plug is easy to see.

and you might aswell upgrade the breather filter to the new BMW type so that it never needs changing again. (Search for this) :)
 
Also make sure you drain all the old oil out, some people claim to only get 5.5L out and the same again to refill but my wife's TD4 takes the full 6.8L. If their vehicles are full to the level with the lesser amount then either there is still some oil in there or the sump is full of expanding foam!
Personally I do an oil & filter change every 6-months, easy job and the undertray isn't the problem many people claim it is. Using a set of ramps helps with access but it is still possible without.

As already stated, don't forget the socket for the oil-filter housing.

When you are doing the crankcase filter (easy job) consider replacing the air-filter as you have to remove the cover to get to the other anyway.
 
hi on removing the full frame for my first oil change i made it easier for the second by drilling out the rivets holding the plastic cover in place and tie wraped the cover back on using the holes in the brackets and the two bolts backin that hold the rear i found this works ok for me !
 
APenn said:
Going to do a oil change on my TD4 any advise. Do I need to remove the bash plate?
I am also going to change the crank breather fillter again any advise.
Click to expand...
While the plate is off cut a hole in it for future drain plug access.
 
When you also change the oil filter I found it much easier to remove the lid of the oilfilter when I loosened the tube of the dipstick (one 10 mm bolt). Otherwise I couldn't manage to take the lid away and the old filter out of the housing.
 
willo said:
When you also change the oil filter I found it much easier to remove the lid of the oilfilter when I loosened the tube of the dipstick (one 10 mm bolt). Otherwise I couldn't manage to take the lid away and the old filter out of the housing.
Click to expand...

I normally slide the intercooler hose out from the sensor to give more space to lift out the filter assy. Probably try your idea next time.
Although with a hole in the undertray an oil change on a TD4 is easy I intend to make it easier still by sucking out the oil in future. With 6 litres of fully synthetic and a new filter every 5k miles I don't expect any sludge problems.
 
Ian jones said:
hi on removing the full frame for my first oil change i made it easier for the second by drilling out the rivets holding the plastic cover in place and tie wraped the cover back on using the holes in the brackets and the two bolts backin that hold the rear i found this works ok for me !
Click to expand...


Me too, why anyone would want to undo & refit that bloody thing every time they change their oil is beyond me.
 
Dont remove the entire undertray , its just a pain in the ass. Remove the back 2x 10mm bolts, remove the 2x 13mm bolts each side. get a bit of cardboard , fold it down the middle to form a long V channel, get your ratchet and long extension with a 15mm socket on it, then simply drain it down the V tray you made into whatever container.

Sounds a pain, but imho, simply the best way to do it :)
 
Vissie said:
Dont remove the entire undertray , its just a pain in the ass. Remove the back 2x 10mm bolts, remove the 2x 13mm bolts each side. get a bit of cardboard , fold it down the middle to form a long V channel, get your ratchet and long extension with a 15mm socket on it, then simply drain it down the V tray you made into whatever container.

Sounds a pain, but imho, simply the best way to do it
Click to expand...
Vissie said:
:)
Click to expand...
IIRC this method has been suggested before except no cardboard, spring the tray down for the oil to run in. To me it's all a bit messy and I don't want one drop of black oil on the floor. Surely a hole cut in the undertray is simple and effective for those who want to take out the drain plug each time. I cover the hole with waterproof tape.
 
Go to Kwik Fit They remove tray drain and fill with full synth and supply and fit new filter for £34 all in - no contest - it's Mobil 3000 as well and yes they know it takes over 6 litres ! And no I dont work etc for them either - this just seems really good value.
 
Last edited:
angeloc said:
Go to Kwik Fit They remove tray drain and fill with full synth and supply and fit new filter for £34 all in - no contest - it's Mobil 3000 as well and yes they know it takes over 7 litres ! And no I dont work etc for them either - this just seems really good value.
Click to expand...

Don't dispute what you say but - recently went to see a 'for sale' TD4. The seller said it had just had an oil change at Kwik Fit. Looked at dipstick, the oil was filthy!
Incidentally my Millers full synth (Trident 5W40) costs £15 per 5 litres (car takes 6) and filter is £4.03.
I must admit I still like to do the oil change myself but just like to make it as easy as possible.
 
Oopps typo - I know is 6 not 7 lts. Hey that Millers is cheap - where from?

I watched Kwik fit changing the oil so know it was done properly.
 
Kwik-Fit could do Mobil 1 with an original Landrover filter for £10 & I still wouldn't use them. Personal experience with them many years ago I'm afraid.
 
chromiumuk said:
Kwik-Fit could do Mobil 1 with an original Landrover filter for £10 & I still wouldn't use them. Personal experience with them many years ago I'm afraid.
Click to expand...

My objection to Kwik-Fit is their exorbitant tyre prices. If someone is getting value from their oil changes good luck to them.
 
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