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Yip.did you adjust the top part of the pump at all ?
Yip..No - certainly not intentionally.
yip...Slackened FIP and tap, tapped until it sounded better. (Yes, last tap back towards engine
Yip.did you adjust the top part of the pump at all ?
Yip..No - certainly not intentionally.
yip...Slackened FIP and tap, tapped until it sounded better. (Yes, last tap back towards engine
If you hold the chain out horizontal you will see by the droop how stretched it is,over to you @Rubberknees ,a parting gift for a smutty response.The Enemy said we must leave early because of the delays at security,there was only a handful of people getting through FFSWhat mileage you at these days? how stretched are your chains?
FIP should be angled roughly like this -
View attachment 264156
Either something was off for example, timing pin hole you use is quite close to another.
Forgot to preload etc
There is only so many times you can pull the slack out of the chains til it will eventually be too far out of range. Chains don’t tend to snap like belts but they do stretch and fatigue as do the sprockets and tensioners.
If you hang old chains next to new you will see the difference in length. If you are way out your FIP should be angled weirdly.
If you fitted new sprockets/chains the setting is 0.95mm but 0.90 when run in. This is why I use a dti even though I don’t own a complete set of spanners.
Have a look in the oil filler hole and both cam lobes for number 1 should be horizontal if it's at TDCThe old bus is well run in at 246K, so I guess the chains are a bit stretched by now !
I've read about that - that there are two holes. How come? and isn't that bloody typical! the pin fits into both?
I've done it once before when it started to need a bit of cranking to start when hot.
It's a bit hard to tell from the pic, but i think my pump is closer to the block than that...
I'm not sure mate I'm in the airport and working from memory which isn't to reliable when I did mine after changing the chains and sprockets I had everything stripped off and there is a TDC pointer in the timing case which I lined up with the mark on the pulley then the pin slid in after cleaning the hole in the flywheel with a copper jag from my pistol cleaning kit,when we were allowed to own one or two.I think RAVE says vertical, insert dial guage, preload, then rotate engine 'till pin locates? Is that when lobes are horizontal?
Are there two holes that the pin will fit?
Okiley dokiley thenNooo! i wouldn't dare!
Just for a couple of weeks,too much happening at homeThanks Alan,
I'll have to go and have another look at it tomorrow.
You off for the summer?
Getting the modulation correct with the dial gauge is very difficult.I didn't take the pump to bits, it's all as is was. I understand about marking to get the pump back together if the top part has been taken off...
Strange thing tho' , which I would appreciate some help understanding.
I set the static timing with dial guage and flywheel pin etc. It started okay but Nanocom showed modulation at 80+%.
So when I adjust it (tap, tap) the modulation goes from too high (greater than 50%) to far too low (7%) with just a light tap. It seems very tricky to get it to stabilize at around 50%.
I am also concerned to get the injection set point and injection actual to within .5 which only seems to be when modulation is at around 80%
Can you help please?
Just for a couple of weeks,too much happening at home
YesI think RAVE says vertical, insert dial guage, preload, then rotate engine 'till pin locates? Is that when lobes are horizontal?
Are there two holes that the pin will fit?
So is it a case of either dial guage or modulation? Or set with dial guage and then adjust for modulation?Getting the modulation correct with the dial gauge is very difficult.
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