L322 Oh Dang it - This is a bit more serious - Head off time I think....

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Yeo the filthy BMW M62TUB44 although I really like it , it does have it’s shortcomings. The early engines fitted into the bmw cars in the early 90’s were Nikasil coated bores. but the high sulphur fuel caused early failures so they changed to a very high silicon aluminium called Alusil that the whole block is made from. The bores are honed and then a chemical treatment applied that exposed the silicon to give a highly wear resistant surface although I think they stopped the chemical treatment and went to a felt pad and silicon paste process.
The Mahle pistons are ferro coated to stop pickup between the aluminium piston and bores- it’s along those lines anyway.

Apologies - you didn’t ask for the engines life story! :)
I only know this because I have one in my garage with 7 highly scored bores so that may get iron liners or made into a coffee table, and another engine in my RR.

This is the longest ‘thread’ in history to tap one hole!
 
Gazbo said:
Thinking they had iron liners in a aluminum block, the same "clack,clack" ones that put an end to many a Rover V8.
Oh, hang on this is that filthy bosch BMW thingy, but even they would be "nickasil" or something.
Still cant imagine any or significant damage from tiny bits of swarf even with that.
Click to expand...
Nikasil liners went out way beforethe M62 made it in the L322 - they now use Alusil liners.
 
holidaychicken said:
Yeo the filthy BMW M62TUB44 although I really like it , it does have it’s shortcomings. The early engines fitted into the bmw cars in the early 90’s were Nikasil coated bores. but the high sulphur fuel caused early failures so they changed to a very high silicon aluminium called Alusil that the whole block is made from. The bores are honed and then a chemical treatment applied that exposed the silicon to give a highly wear resistant surface although I think they stopped the chemical treatment and went to a felt pad and silicon paste process.
The Mahle pistons are ferro coated to stop pickup between the aluminium piston and bores- it’s along those lines anyway.

Apologies - you didn’t ask for the engines life story! :)
I only know this because I have one in my garage with 7 highly scored bores so that may get iron liners or made into a coffee table, and another engine in my RR.

This is the longest ‘thread’ in history to tap one hole!
Click to expand...
Well, that coffee table sounds like a great idea.
As you can see from my comment, I know little of the BMW stuff, but after owning 3 old Jags with XK engines that some mechanics seem not to be able to get plugs into without "cross threading" I've done a few plug thread inserts.
And yes it is, but it doesn't hurt to get a few opinions, but it makes you realise why "decision" and "committee" can never be mentioned in the same sentence.
 
As this thread needs more derailing ...
Jaguar advice regarding Nikasil (Used on early X308's) is that if it's not broke currently then you are in the clear. The Nikasil is a very good treatment, unhappily introduced too soon for some parts of Europe.

I did the 100K service on my 4.2 n/a V8 a month or so ago and the boards advised me that getting to No 8 was a real pain, some of the advice saying that I had to take out a square of metal from the bulkhead to get to it. As I was getting a misfire on that plug it was a case of 'suck and see'. It was tricky but I did it with Halfords sockets. It's easy to talk yourself into the long but safe route, but a quick try out will confirm whether what you're reading works for you or not.
 
holidaychicken said:
And another 3 pages of me and JM metaphorically naked mud wrestling in a paddling pool :eek:
Click to expand...
When's the return match
excited-gif.gif
 
NigelJK said:
As this thread needs more derailing ...
Jaguar advice regarding Nikasil (Used on early X308's) is that if it's not broke currently then you are in the clear. The Nikasil is a very good treatment, unhappily introduced too soon for some parts of Europe.

I did the 100K service on my 4.2 n/a V8 a month or so ago and the boards advised me that getting to No 8 was a real pain, some of the advice saying that I had to take out a square of metal from the bulkhead to get to it. As I was getting a misfire on that plug it was a case of 'suck and see'. It was tricky but I did it with Halfords sockets. It's easy to talk yourself into the long but safe route, but a quick try out will confirm whether what you're reading works for you or not.
Click to expand...

On the S-type the windscreen water-jets leak and drip onto the coil-packs with predicatable results. Popping them out and reseating them with sealant seems to cure the issue. might be worth checking.
 
NigelJK said:
As this thread needs more derailing ...
Jaguar advice regarding Nikasil (Used on early X308's) is that if it's not broke currently then you are in the clear. The Nikasil is a very good treatment, unhappily introduced too soon for some parts of Europe.

I did the 100K service on my 4.2 n/a V8 a month or so ago and the boards advised me that getting to No 8 was a real pain, some of the advice saying that I had to take out a square of metal from the bulkhead to get to it. As I was getting a misfire on that plug it was a case of 'suck and see'. It was tricky but I did it with Halfords sockets. It's easy to talk yourself into the long but safe route, but a quick try out will confirm whether what you're reading works for you or not.
Click to expand...
Porsche use Nikasil a lot on their liners with very good results.
 
Bloody raining...........

I have got half way through the thread cutting, taking my time, doing 2-3 screws, backing out, cleaning the tap, re-greasing and screwing in again (sounds a bit like the way I do others things too!!!!).....

I am sooooo close to the end of the thread cutting and the fecking heavens opened, now normally it wouldn't bother me as humans are mostly water resistant - but with the rocker cover off the engine, I don't want my sump filling with rain water.....

Dang it - will continue when it abates.
 
Great to hear you are trying the in-situ route first. Not so great that it is a tad "damp" today.
Yesterday was a lovely day with largely cloudless skies don't you know ;)
 
Brief update -

Sooooo, the thread cutting went spectacularly well, I went for Sealy kit VS301 which did the magic.

I will edit a vid to show later, but I am not sure it will be super interesting, just me mostly in the way of the camera really, but hey ho, someone might be interested.

Used loads of grease on the tap to catch swarf, did about 2.5-3 turns of the tap in quarter turn increments, then backed out, cleaned the tap and re-greased.....used the vacuum to clean the area each time the tap was removed too.

Popped the new insert on the install tool, which uses a locking sleeve to hold the insert in place while you screw it in, used Loctite threadlocker on the insert, screwed that in, released the locking nut on the sleeve and wound that back, then unscrewed the tool from the now seated insert and waited 30 mins while I tidied the tools away and cleaned up a bit for the locker to go off a bit, then spun in a new plug, new coil and also changed the other 7 plugs while I was in there.

Some of the plug wells were soaked in oil, so looks like I will be needing to re-seal the other rocker cover too.....but that can wait for a moment as I need to get the P38 running properly first and also allow my bank balance to re-coup after the last few weeks of disasters!

Now here's the thing - 6 of the remaining 7 plugs where so loose, There was no resistance to unscrewing them, only one was torqued down......Why can't people do simple jobs properly??

Unfortunately the battery in the camera ran out before I could put the LPG together and the new coils on, so the vid I will edit together later only goes up to removing a couple of the plugs!!

But, she fired up gave a puff of smoke as the grease was burnt off, but ran smoothly (aside from the VANOS ticking - which is again something else to do!)
 
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