Oh bugger, help needed...

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Yep buster's the man! Trouble is it don't allow for all the aggro I had getting the damn bolts off that hold the swivel to the axle!

hopefully with all the new parts it will go well now, I'll start stripping down tomorrow and cleaning up, bit of luck I'll be able to get both sides stripped and prepped ready for new parts.

Why do we drive landrovers? Oh yeah, I know...:)
 
Update,

Both sides stripped and on the bench ready for cleaning and rebuilding. 2nd side was easier, caliper was wet but not leaking so caught just in time, both discs were badly worn judging by the ridges at the centre, one wheel bearing was slack.

Problems...

I have what seems to me to be bad wear on one of the half shaft splines,looks about 1/3 of the spline worn away. Is that worth worrying about?

Are there any tricks of the trade for setting swivel preload? Might as well set that while the hubs are on the bench.

Certainly a relief when the last bolt came out ;)
 
Just been reading the search results and it seems there should be some resistance on the swivels, more if seal is fitted. I have bugger all resistance with seal fitted so it's definately slack, have ordered some shims as I don't know what's in there.

How do i find out out if I have railko or timken bushes? Apparently it alters the preload settings.

If I pull the top pin out will the swivel come apart? Would be good to get the lot in the parts washer for thorough cleaning but not with it assembled.

Dave
 
only defenders upto 94 and series use rialko top bush,yours is bearing top and bottom bushes have alot of preloiad 8-12 lbs ish bearings 2lb at most removing all freeplay is enough on used bearings as they are allready run in you do check swivel before fastening seal in ,your more likely to need less than more shims ,if drive member and shaft splines are worn bad you would need tdj000010 cv and ruc105200 drive member ,with shaft out and seal off removing just top pin will allow swivel housing to come off ball
 
not too much though as they are taper bearings,more preload is needed with new bearings as they have to run in ,as a rule of thumb 1 thou per inch diameter of bearing,too tight it will very quickly cause the bearings to wear,rialko bush on defenders is designed to be tighter prehaps you need better damper
 
jamesmartin said:
only defenders upto 94 and series use rialko top bush,yours is bearing top and bottom bushes have alot of preloiad 8-12 lbs ish bearings 2lb at most removing all freeplay is enough on used bearings as they are allready run in you do check swivel before fastening seal in ,your more likely to need less than more shims ,if drive member and shaft splines are worn bad you would need tdj000010 cv and ruc105200 drive member ,with shaft out and seal off removing just top pin will allow swivel housing to come off ball
Click to expand...

Thanks, so it's 2lb or 1kg due to used bearings, with seal off, currently have zero with seal on so needs doing. I got shims cos I don't know what's in there and may need some thinner ones, 20p each so no loss.

Does the 1/3 loss of spline sound bad? I have ordered new drive members anyway but that won't help the worn shaft much, do I need to get a cv as well??

Bloody jobs adding up now:(

Land rovers eh:p
 
there can be bought for less than £20,grease them before fitting drive member its the lack of lube there since they stopped using oil for bearings and fit oil seal in stub axle,used bearings just want to have no free play and just a slight nip,,its not imperative you change cvs ,unlike a gearbox etc isnt difficult to change eventually when wear is more noticeable
 
Thanks, this one had the dreaded red gunk in it so must have been dry at some time, there were signs of grease though. I'll leave it for now, the new members and some fresh grease should help a bit.

Dave
 
jamesmartin said:
not too much though as they are taper bearings,more preload is needed with new bearings as they have to run in ,as a rule of thumb 1 thou per inch diameter of bearing,too tight it will very quickly cause the bearings to wear,rialko bush on defenders is designed to be tighter prehaps you need better damper
Click to expand...


Cheers Jimbo, yes I need to bench test my damper, I know that preload will cause wear but there's not much I can do, the negative offer wheels are too prone to violent shaking if the preload is not there.

I set them so they're nice and firm but they feel nowhere near too tight (they don't feel notchy)

Cheers
 
i wouldnt have thought you would have over done it, as been a knowledgeable chap but i have had people come where they were after thinking of early defender been the same as disco are your wheels too big to keep steering through center of tyre
 
Yes mate the steering is quite far out of centre of tyre, it is not possible to turn the steering much with the brakes on at standstill because the tyres have to roll as they turn.
 
It's not too bad to be honest!

It's fine most of the time, will do 80 on the motorway if youre feeling wealthy, it gets rallied on the country lanes when we go greenlaning/street racing and its quite happy to do so.

It is just very prone to violent, throw you off the road style wheel shake if the preload is not firm. You will hit a bump on the road or something and you can feel it coming, there's too many systems in the steering for you to stand a chance of holding it through the steering wheel.

It only does it between 40 and 50, and if the hub preload is weak.

I think a new steering damper is required though because it has initial play. The first half inch or so is not damped, but once you pump it up it's fine.

I'm thinking about one of those defender return-to-centre types.

Cheers
 
Ok, got one side stripped completely and soaking in white spirit (not the bearings of course)

Found some pitting on the ball, about 6 small scabs in the chrome, halfway up, inside the hub portion, feels a little rough but I don't know if it's bad enough to be worth ordering balls, bearings etc? I'm thinking to gently smooth it out and leave it as is, what say you? Being halfway up its not immersed in one-shot so only gets splashed.

Also, what's the secret to holding the hub while doing up the disc bolts to torque??
When stripping the old disc, it was seized onto the hub so I clouted it and the disc sheared off the hub ring, very thin metal it seems!

dave
 
davek0974 said:
Ok, got one side stripped completely and soaking in white spirit (not the bearings of course)

Found some pitting on the ball, about 6 small scabs in the chrome, halfway up, inside the hub portion, feels a little rough but I don't know if it's bad enough to be worth ordering balls, bearings etc? I'm thinking to gently smooth it out and leave it as is, what say you? Being halfway up its not immersed in one-shot so only gets splashed.

Also, what's the secret to holding the hub while doing up the disc bolts to torque??
When stripping the old disc, it was seized onto the hub so I clouted it and the disc sheared off the hub ring, very thin metal it seems!

dave
Click to expand...

To tighten the disc bolts put the hub studs through the holes in the removed wheel and hold the wheel still on the floor there is a picture example of this in the Haynes manual
Surprised you havent found Busters guide to doing the swivel ball heres a link http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/swivel-ball-renewal-63808.html

Ignore it if you have seen it:D
 
Last edited:
Thanks for that but its not how to change the ball (sitting on the bench at present) its whether to change it or not.

Boils down to money I think, do new balls come without swivel bearings?

Thanks for the disc bolt idea.
 
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