nuts

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Hippo

Hippo

Lord Hippo
Posts
53,850
I always use 6 sided sockets but sometimes find shallow nuts where the nut head only sticks out 5mm. If you can't get a spanner in them then sockets are the only option but they can round them oft as sockets have a sloped edge at the front. I was thinking of grinding the sloped edge oft so the sockets sit flat faced onto shallow nutss. Can you buy sockets with a flat face already?

nrQ8Ji4.jpg

P2232066 nrQ8Ji4
 
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the better the socket the better the fit ,and when undoing flange nuts which are sligthly tapered a goood socket or irwin type extractor is essntial
 
I find the black hardened ones are the best they are the ones you get with a air gun ,I have broke the chrome ones before now . I used to have a great set of snap on but when one of my garages got broken into they stole £3000 + of gear that's when I said I would no longer buy the best but slowly I am going back there.
 
i have snap on socket set 3/8 and not had a problem and then i also have 1/2 snap on impact sockets for nuts that look like they are past it

but these socket sets are not cheap as im wanting a set of 3/8 impact sockets from snap on and almost died when he told me how much lol
 
Thanks all. I have several sets and a few socket rails. All of then from the cheaper range as they will last my life time with the use they get.

What urwin set should I get if I follow this route?
 
It's bolts like this which cause me problems. The nut is shallow. Perhaps 5 or 6mm deep and the sloped shape of the face/entrance of the socket means they round off too easily. I would like to be able to undo these nuts without damaging them so they could be reused. Are the urwin sockets for removing rounded/damaged nuts? Ere's an eggsample:

PA141169.jpg
 
Hippo said:
It's bolts like this which cause me problems. The nut is shallow. Perhaps 5 or 6mm deep and the sloped shape of the face/entrance of the socket means they round off too easily. I would like to be able to undo these nuts without damaging them so they could be reused. Are the urwin sockets for removing rounded/damaged nuts? Ere's an eggsample:

PA141169.jpg
Click to expand...
thinking of tackling your gear box ? a std snap on does those perfectly if your worried by a copper hammer or brass punch and whack each one first ,try it it works,and they are flange bolts
 
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jamesmartin said:
thinking of tackling your gear box ? a std snap on does those perfectly if your worried by a copper hammer or brass punch and whack each one first ,try it it works,and they are flange bolts
Click to expand...
Thanks.

Well spotted. That's my old auto with his eggspensive leak. Right at the bottom of the side plate from where the drip is, along the seem for 1 inch to the right in the pic.

I was going to have a go taking my current auto apart if needed but a magic oil swop seems to have settled the problem after driving 50 miles. chance of the problem happening reduced as miles increased. I have a second batch of oil to change again just in case it happens again, but I think the problem is now solved. May use that in a few hundred miles time rather than having it sat there doing nothing. Sticking solenoid or something hydraulic/lubricated which needed a clean through perhaps causing the fault. Can't really do anymore than guess/summarise what could have happened. May never really understand what was wrong but I'm still intrigued as to how the auto works. So I recently took my spare broken one apart. Only removed the solenoid pan and side plate + the stuff behind it as built sections, then put it all back. Will travel all the way through the whole box to see what's what eventually and pull all the friction plate apart too. I struggled with the 2 larger bolts on the top right of the side plate which triggered this thread. 17mm if I remember correctly. As the auto box will never be used I bodged it but intend to be able to cope with shallow nuts without damaging them in the future.

My hawkeye is currently watching the brake signals to the auto to confirm if the auto does receive the brake pedal signal when braking, if the fault happens again.
 
Hippo said:
Thanks.

Well spotted. That's my old auto with his eggspensive leak. Right at the bottom of the side plate from where the drip is, along the seem for 1 inch to the right in the pic.

I was going to have a go taking my current auto apart if needed but a magic oil swop seems to have settled the problem after driving 50 miles. chance of the problem happening reduced as miles increased. I have a second batch of oil to change again just in case it happens again, but I think the problem is now solved. May use that in a few hundred miles time rather than having it sat there doing nothing. Sticking solenoid or something hydraulic/lubricated which needed a clean through perhaps causing the fault. Can't really do anymore than guess/summarise what could have happened. May never really understand what was wrong but I'm still intrigued as to how the auto works. So I recently took my spare broken one apart. Only removed the solenoid pan and side plate + the stuff behind it as built sections, then put it all back. Will travel all the way through the whole box to see what's what eventually and pull all the friction plate apart too. I struggled with the 2 larger bolts on the top right of the side plate which triggered this thread. 17mm if I remember correctly. As the auto box will never be used I bodged it but intend to be able to cope with shallow nuts without damaging them in the future.
Click to expand...
solenoid pan ?your idea of grinding sockets was a good one ,so is the hitting bolt ,an auto box is just 2 or 3 epicylic gear sets ,each epicylic has 2 forward and 1 reverse possibility depending which you hold and which you drive and which is driven ,the clutch packs are the means to do this
 
Hippo said:
Thanks.

Well spotted. That's my old auto with his eggspensive leak. Right at the bottom of the side plate from where the drip is, along the seem for 1 inch to the right in the pic.

I was going to have a go taking my current auto apart if needed but a magic oil swop seems to have settled the problem after driving 50 miles. chance of the problem happening reduced as miles increased. I have a second batch of oil to change again just in case it happens again, but I think the problem is now solved. May use that in a few hundred miles time rather than having it sat there doing nothing. Sticking solenoid or something hydraulic/lubricated which needed a clean through perhaps causing the fault. Can't really do anymore than guess/summarise what could have happened. May never really understand what was wrong but I'm still intrigued as to how the auto works. So I recently took my spare broken one apart. Only removed the solenoid pan and side plate + the stuff behind it as built sections, then put it all back. Will travel all the way through the whole box to see what's what eventually and pull all the friction plate apart too. I struggled with the 2 larger bolts on the top right of the side plate which triggered this thread. 17mm if I remember correctly. As the auto box will never be used I bodged it but intend to be able to cope with shallow nuts without damaging them in the future.

My hawkeye is currently watching the brake signals to the auto to confirm if the auto does receive the brake pedal signal when braking, if the fault happens again.
Click to expand...

I know this is off topic, is your auto working proper again? Are you still using that expensive LR 402?
Have you not considered Car Lube ATF-U ? It's so much cheaper to buy than the LR402 you could change it yearly and still save money ;)
 
when taking a auto box apart and putting it back together you must be immensely clean about the whole thing one tiny bit of dirt and that's it ,and that is what a auto box specialist told me .
 
teddywood1 said:
when taking a auto box apart and putting it back together you must be immensely clean about the whole thing one tiny bit of dirt and that's it ,and that is what a auto box specialist told me .
Click to expand...
thats not entirely true ,yes you try to keep clean as possible ,ut some dirt would just get washed to the bottom of the case or filter
 
I have britool sockets which are said to be made from forged chrome vanadium steel. If I grinder oft the edge then I assume they will rust where they've been cut? I've looked at the snap oft ones and they're quite expensive compared to mine, bearing in mind mine could have had the edge machine oft when they were made, just like the snap oft ones.
 
Hippo said:
I have britool sockets which are said to be made from forged chrome vanadium steel. If I grinder oft the edge then I assume they will rust where they've been cut? I've looked at the snap oft ones and they're quite expensive compared to mine, bearing in mind mine could have had the edge machine oft when they were made, just like the snap oft ones.
Click to expand...

Laser tools sockets are reasonable price and quality
 
Hippo said:
I have britool sockets which are said to be made from forged chrome vanadium steel. If I grinder oft the edge then I assume they will rust where they've been cut? I've looked at the snap oft ones and they're quite expensive compared to mine, bearing in mind mine could have had the edge machine oft when they were made, just like the snap oft ones.
Click to expand...
if they are real britool dont spoil them if facome just grind egde off
 
jamesmartin said:
if they are real britool dont spoil them if facome just grind egde off
Click to expand...
They're propper britool which is sort of cut into the side of each socket. Was thinking about buying a second socket rail and grinding one set for special occasions and keeping the other for regular non shallow nuts.
 
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