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Nothings Ever EASy These Days
- Thread starter Doo
- Start date
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Mine was doing similar after I had the bags changed. Turned out that the hawkeye he used had set everything too high.
Set it up measuring to the arches and got it ok. Did it with blocks and it started playing up again. Remeasure to the arches and it's fairly good again.
It stills dances a bit at traffic lights if it's at standard height so i just drive everywhere at motorway height now as it was killing the pump.
I would try driving around at motorway height for a while and see how it goes.
Set it up measuring to the arches and got it ok. Did it with blocks and it started playing up again. Remeasure to the arches and it's fairly good again.
It stills dances a bit at traffic lights if it's at standard height so i just drive everywhere at motorway height now as it was killing the pump.
I would try driving around at motorway height for a while and see how it goes.
I set the heights roughly after measuring the low height and going up by approx 30 bits or so. So access FL 66 FR 59 RL 43 RR 39 I added 30 to each corner for each height. I then checked the heights and put her up or down 1 bit at a time with the green or red buttons, then I checked out the headlight beam aim and looked at the back end to see if she was leaning. She's straight as an arrow and no one flashed me for blinding them
It's not ideal, but it'll get me to my mates garage where we're going to do the blocks. I'll be in the car doing the computer stuff and poor muggins Ian, will be changing out the blocks. I plan to use black marker to aid fitting Access FL, etc...
Also, I think I need to empty any water out of the air tank as the valve inside the block who's name I forget (about the size of a 10p) was rusted in the centre
so I cleaned it, but I wonder if that's causing any muppetry?? The desicant was fine last time I looked...The left is dry and one pin had the faintest smidge of possible greenery, so switch cleaner and a small file.
Where's best to purchase good quality NRV's as I had a spare "O" ring for my dodgy FL valve in the "new" block so all it needs are NRV's and it's all brand new.
While I'm at it, my old pump, which had a new seal last year, is vibrating and making a bit of a racket. I checked the counterweight, but it was tight!
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Hey doo!,
@kurtjohnson10 , is the man for the nrv's. Quite a few of us have bought them.
Good luck buddy
@kurtjohnson10 , is the man for the nrv's. Quite a few of us have bought them.
Good luck buddy
Your bit counts are too far apart.I set the heights roughly after measuring the low height and going up by approx 30 bits or so. So access FL 66 FR 59 RL 43 RR 39 I added 30 to each corner for each height. I then checked the heights and put her up or down 1 bit at a time with the green or red buttons, then I checked out the headlight beam aim and looked at the back end to see if she was leaning. She's straight as an arrow and no one flashed me for blinding them
It's not ideal, but it'll get me to my mates garage where we're going to do the blocks. I'll be in the car doing the computer stuff and poor muggins Ian, will be changing out the blocks. I plan to use black marker to aid fitting Access FL, etc...
Also, I think I need to empty any water out of the air tank as the valve inside the block who's name I forget (about the size of a 10p) was rusted in the centre
Fronts need to be within (I think) 2 bits side to side and rears within (I think) 5 bits or something like that.
I think it's in wammers guide in the tech archive.
That'll be the problem! I'm off to mates garage now to see if I can nail this thing.... Thank you
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- Sud ouest France !
Well? Come on spill the beans....
Well... Did all the heights and programmed them and aaannnnnnnnnd..................
The car HATED it
Honestly, whatever I did the 4 lamps stayed put and the "faults" readout said that the heights were wrong!
How could that be? I sat her down hard on the blocks so there could be no doubt, took the reading and programmed into the bottom section of the EAS Unlock Suite where you write it.
Nothing I did would allow me to switch off those lights.
So in the end, I made up some slightly higher numbers programmed it and she came out of the lock, lights off. Only problem is a lean to the right, but that's easy to fix by upping the numbers on the right, front & rear.
So, is it perhaps my sensors are worn or maybe a problem with the ECU on the valve block?
Stupid car
The car HATED it
Honestly, whatever I did the 4 lamps stayed put and the "faults" readout said that the heights were wrong!
How could that be? I sat her down hard on the blocks so there could be no doubt, took the reading and programmed into the bottom section of the EAS Unlock Suite where you write it.
Nothing I did would allow me to switch off those lights.
So in the end, I made up some slightly higher numbers programmed it and she came out of the lock, lights off. Only problem is a lean to the right, but that's easy to fix by upping the numbers on the right, front & rear.
So, is it perhaps my sensors are worn or maybe a problem with the ECU on the valve block?
Stupid car
I cant recall the exact numbers, but they were within 10 bits of each other. I'd like say at full height the fronts were somewhere around 138 or within a few bits of that.
Nothing loose under there, that's fo sho
What I was getting at is that the sensors can be adjusted to give sensible readings by either bending the arms or by loosening them off and moving the sensor body.
You need the readings to be within 2 bits side to side.
On mine, the bump stops were full of crap inside so the blocks didn't go all the way up inside them and this made them give daft readings
You need the readings to be within 2 bits side to side.
On mine, the bump stops were full of crap inside so the blocks didn't go all the way up inside them and this made them give daft readings
That was the 1st thing I checked. They were clean and grot free, so much so the smallest blocks disappeared up in them
The rear sensor arms are bent but the fronts are pretty straight and the bolts may need some persuading
You know that feeling you get when you realise you are an utter muppet?
I have that feeling and it's a bad feeling, like being kicked in the nuts and waiting for the next kick....
That FL solenoid valve with the nipped "O" ring?? I think I know why.
The reason is because I blindly followed the reversal of removal... The plunger tube, there the actual valve sits inside and is actuated by leccy flowing??
I simply unscrewed the plastic cover that holds the tube and slid the tube out. The original "O" rings had been slid down the tube so I followed that lead and did them all like that, on both valve blocks. But it occurred to me that the super slim "O" ring actually sits in the plastic base, the plunger tube then sits on the "O" ring and the plastic lid slides down over the tube. The seal is complete...obviously? Yes or no??
Thing is, the way it was, the "O" ring simply didn't fit on the top cover (which is how it managed to get nipped) so my guess is the valves are just holding on and no more...
Or am I totally and completely wrong?
I have that feeling and it's a bad feeling, like being kicked in the nuts and waiting for the next kick....
That FL solenoid valve with the nipped "O" ring?? I think I know why.
The reason is because I blindly followed the reversal of removal... The plunger tube, there the actual valve sits inside and is actuated by leccy flowing??
I simply unscrewed the plastic cover that holds the tube and slid the tube out. The original "O" rings had been slid down the tube so I followed that lead and did them all like that, on both valve blocks. But it occurred to me that the super slim "O" ring actually sits in the plastic base, the plunger tube then sits on the "O" ring and the plastic lid slides down over the tube. The seal is complete...obviously? Yes or no??
Thing is, the way it was, the "O" ring simply didn't fit on the top cover (which is how it managed to get nipped) so my guess is the valves are just holding on and no more...
Or am I totally and completely wrong?
Either way, if you are 10 bits out side to side it is going to have a hissy fitThat was the 1st thing I checked. They were clean and grot free, so much so the smallest blocks disappeared up in them
The rear sensor arms are bent but the fronts are pretty straight and the bolts may need some persuading
dubbleRR
Well-Known Member
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I think the sensors are revesable side to side after 99 ,So they run on a new unused track ....Someone on here might shed some more light on this ...
.
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- Preston Lancs.
I think the sensors are revesable side to side after 99 ,So they run on a new unused track ....Someone on here might shed some more light on this ..
1997 and on actually.
dubbleRR
Well-Known Member
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Cheers Wammers.Still after 99 though ..
..
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- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Cheers Wammers.Still after 99 though
One way of looking at it i suppose. Reversible from 1997 until 2002 so i am fairly confident that is before and after 1999.
