Not used to this mechanicin

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It seems to be back together today. I’ve just got to reconnect the propshafts and drop some lard in the sump and I can go for a startup.

Back in work until Thursday so it’ll have to wait till then. Fingers crossed that the pump is somewhere near. :oops:

If it fires I’ll put the radiator back on and go for final tuning. I’m thinking of waterless coolant this time simply because it sounds a good idea as regards internal rust and apart from the cost the only down side I can think of is the inability to wee in it in an emergency.
 
On a side note;

These ruddy engine mount rubbers seem very hard. I may have to bite down when at the lights to keep my fillings in :eek:
 
Bobsticle said:
On a side note;

These ruddy engine mount rubbers seem very hard. I may have to bite down when at the lights to keep my fillings in :eek:
Click to expand...
Just wear the anti engine mount safety device when at the lights ;)
393030FE-943C-4E59-A4C5-D37FBA423581.jpeg
 
Bobsticle said:
It seems to be back together today. I’ve just got to reconnect the propshafts and drop some lard in the sump and I can go for a startup.

Back in work until Thursday so it’ll have to wait till then. Fingers crossed that the pump is somewhere near. :oops:

If it fires I’ll put the radiator back on and go for final tuning. I’m thinking of waterless coolant this time simply because it sounds a good idea as regards internal rust and apart from the cost the only down side I can think of is the inability to wee in it in an emergency.
Click to expand...

From memory lr say dont run engine for more than a few seconds with no coolant as injector tips will overheat.
I would stick with plain old glycol coolant, just change every 2 years, ebay Mannol AG11.

Four years worth of running right here, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303941019883?hash=item46c44be8eb:g:pw8AAOSwph1gZGvn
 
lynall said:
From memory lr say dont run engine for more than a few seconds with no coolant as injector tips will overheat.
I would stick with plain old glycol coolant, just change every 2 years, ebay Mannol AG11.

Four years worth of running right here, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303941019883?hash=item46c44be8eb:g:pw8AAOSwph1gZGvn
Click to expand...
Oh I wouldn’t need more than a couple of revolutions to fill the lockup with unburnt fuel :D
Strangely I changed my coolant twice a year with the blue stuff and it always turned to orange soup within a month. Always flushed it out with the hose beforehand, even tried dishwasher tabs. I just thought while it’s totally dry I’d take the opportunity to have a bash with the waterless jollop. What’s the worst that can happen :confused:
 
Bit nearer today. Like I said, work now for three days so amused myself with fitting the battery and turning the engine over a few times to get the new oil round it.
As I had to move the engine and gearbox forward to get to the bell housing nuts, I now have to fettle the flooring and gear sticks along with all the wiring that was ripped out of the fuse box and indicator stalk when it was nicked.
Can’t get an oil pressure light so I’d better sort the wiring before first full start.
 
Bobsticle said:
Oh I wouldn’t need more than a couple of revolutions to fill the lockup with unburnt fuel :D
Strangely I changed my coolant twice a year with the blue stuff and it always turned to orange soup within a month. Always flushed it out with the hose beforehand, even tried dishwasher tabs. I just thought while it’s totally dry I’d take the opportunity to have a bash with the waterless jollop. What’s the worst that can happen :confused:
Click to expand...
I would say that means your engine has been run on neat water for large parts of it's life, and your block is pretty rusty inside.

When you do get it going, keep a careful eye on the coolant and oil levels, and note carefully any changes.
 
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Turboman said:
I would say that means your engine has been run on neat water for large parts of it's life, and your block is pretty rusty inside.

When you do get it going, keep a careful eye on the coolant and oil levels, and not carefully any changes.
Click to expand...
I shall lay out a carpet of Basildon Bond note paper. There won’t be a drop. :D:D:D
 
Bobsticle said:
Bit nearer today. Like I said, work now for three days so amused myself with fitting the battery and turning the engine over a few times to get the new oil round it.
As I had to move the engine and gearbox forward to get to the bell housing nuts, I now have to fettle the flooring and gear sticks along with all the wiring that was ripped out of the fuse box and indicator stalk when it was nicked.
Can’t get an oil pressure light so I’d better sort the wiring before first full start.[/QUOTE

I think it is battery voltage to oil light, from ligth to switch and the switch grounds it out when pressure is reached?
Click to expand...
 
Bobsticle said:
The heater matrix on the other hand blew out orange goop when I chucked an air line in it.

That could be the source. Tomato I think :oops:
Click to expand...
What I do if in doubt about a block is to refill with water and blue antifreeze, and then add a Barrs Seal pellet to the rad just before start up, and run it for a while. Be on the safe side.

Some like K seal and so on, but I have had good results with the Barrs stuff in the past, and it is fairly cheap, so I just stay with that.

I don't know how well it mixes with the waterless coolant, though.
 
It never leaked before. The oil was always water free. I’ve ordered a couple of gallons of the waterless gear so I’ll give it a go. If there are any issues I can always go back to antifreeze and watter. The hard one is going from water to waterless as you have to get all of the old stuff out.
 
I considered waterless coolant a while back for my Mondeo but gave up on the idea. You have to clean the system out to make sure there is no trace of the old antifreeze , there were problems with it eating some plastics and it's not as good at absorbing heat so you need to increase the water flow rate. And it's expensive lol
 
Bobsticle said:
What a faff :rolleyes:

View attachment 250919
Click to expand...

I had a similar issue when helping a mate put his triumph engine back together. We used a protractor and eyeballed it. Then marked the flywheel with a punch after. I used a wooden spoon to find TDC.

to my amazement it ran straight away, I did have fingers crossed on both hands though….
 
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flat said:
I had a similar issue when helping a mate put his triumph engine back together. We used a protractor abs eyeballed it. Then marked the flat wheel with a punch after.

to my amazement it ran straight away, I did have fingers crossed on both hands though….
Click to expand...
The big day tomorrow. I have three batteries charged up and a tin of easy start. :confused:
 
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