Not starting

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Hate to break in on this love story, but to get back to the original question of why it will run but not start, may i suggest,having had this twice on different diesels,both times it was the valve clearances were to tight to allow the starter to fire it up, it would bump with a tow start, or as said fire on with help from easy start or wd 40,and run fine, only a suggestion, but it is so easily overloooked nowadays ,

Don't think that will be the problem in this case. ;);)
 
That's a belter. :D:D

No master techs when i served my time, just five years apprenticeship and a visit to tech college once a week to learn stuff you would never need to know. Now it's an NVQ learning how to drive a diag machine and swap parts until you find the one that's faulty. :D:D:D
 
No master techs when i served my time, just five years apprenticeship and a visit to tech college once a week to learn stuff you would never need to know. Now it's an NVQ learning how to drive a diag machine and swap parts until you find the one that's faulty. :D:D:D


Just the same for me. :D
 
Something I think I discovered last night which might be relevant...

I have been unplugging sensors on our year 2002 TD4 to see what error codes they produce, because I wanted to verify that the codes that my company's tool produces are correct (we make a Rover / MG / LR diagnostic tool).

Last night I unplugged the sensor for which the plug pokes out of the front of the top engine cover. As you stand in front of the car it is on the your left side of the cover on the front of the engine (so the drivers side on a RHD car). By hooking a finger under the edge of the cover I just about managed to unplug it.
I think that it might be the cam position sensor.
The interesting thing about unplugging this sensor is that:-
1. The engine would not start.
2. There was no error code logged!

It seems rather surprising and poor that a sensor can be disconnected, which prevents the engine starting, and it results in no error code being logged.

Going back to the OPs question the other thing I have seen on common rail Peugeots is that they will not start unless a certain rail pressure is achieved during cranking, I think about 120bar. The ECU will simply not open the injectors. The rail pressure during idling once the engine is actually running is about 300 bar. If you have a weak low pressure or high pressure pump you really need a diagnostic tool (like mine ;) ) which can display rail pressure in real time to diagnose if this is the problem or not.
 
I recently had a Renault Clio in with engine management light on and gone into limp home mode, the scan revealed just about every conceivable fault, I went with my gut instinct and fitted a new crank sensor, cleared the faults and everything is OK now. Just saying like. :D
 
I recently had a Renault Clio in with engine management light on and gone into limp home mode, the scan revealed just about every conceivable fault, I went with my gut instinct and fitted a new crank sensor, cleared the faults and everything is OK now. Just saying like. :D


I put easy start in my lambretta and now its addicted to coke and looks like
Daniella Westbrook
:D


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I think that it might be the cam position sensor.
The interesting thing about unplugging this sensor is that:-
1. The engine would not start.
2. There was no error code logged!

It seems rather surprising and poor that a sensor can be disconnected, which prevents the engine starting, and it results in no error code being logged.

It seems that I was wrong about this, so it's a red herring. Well a bit wrong anyway.
It seems that after some extended cranking, ignition off for some period of time and then ignition back on that I get fault code P1E25 RPM regulation. If you had a dead car then I am sure that you would have cranked it long enough, and then turned the ignition off, so you would get this code.
 
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