Non starting Freelander

michael_v · Feb 6, 2017

I have spent some time this weekend setting the timing on the fuel pump. It was not out by much but did follow the RAVE manual to set it perfectly. The process was as follows:

1. Set the engine to TDC where the number 1 cylinder was at the top and verified this with the markings on the cam shatf, the locking pin inserted in fly wheel, fitting smoothly and ensuring the no 1 piston is TDC with a wire through the injector hole.
2. Tensioner pulley released on the FIP timing belt side and ensuring that the locking pin for the FIP fits smoothly into the hole. I verified that the woodruf slot and marking on the FIP are aligned as well.
3. I tensioned the pulley to 6nm torque and removed both locking pins and rotated the engine by hand twice.
4. Re inserted both locking pins and retensioned the pulley to 6 nm torque
5. loosened the 4 bolts on the crank pulley and torqued it to 25 NM torque in clockwise direction, tightened the 4 bolts and torqued it 25 NM
6. Removed the locking pins and rotated the engine twice and set TDC again
7. Inserted both locking pins and it was spot on without having to search for any of the holes.

Still awaiting the parts for the starter which will hopefully be here this week to test if she will start. Did change the LCD display for the clock and radio display combo.

Once I have my starter back in the vehicle I will let you all know if she is running.

michael_v · Feb 13, 2017

I think I might have a bigger problem than just fuel pump timing. I bolted the starter back on, primed the engine with the priming bulb and tried to start the Freelander. She started after a couple of turns, rpm went up to 1000 rpm and then she stopped. I still have an excessive amount of whit smoke coming from the crank breather which gives me an idea that I have a bigger problem. There is no oil loss or any signs of oil in the coolant expansion bottle which will rule out a head gasket as the previous owner had that replaced. When she does fire there is no smoke coming from the exhaust .

Any ideas that might arise

Nodge68 · Feb 13, 2017

I'd be checking the compression pressure on all cylinders.
Are you sure that the exhaust is allowing gas out? Has the cat blocked for instance?

michael_v · Feb 13, 2017

Hi V6. I will have to do a compression test on the cylinders. Valid point on the cat, I have thought there might be a blockage so when I get someone to crank the engine I close the exhaust by hand to see if there is any compression there, there is some but not much. It has been standing long so not sure if this might have had any influence on the cat. Will have to get the vehicle to exhaust shop to check.

When I hold my hand at the intake there is lots of suction, more than the exhaust pressure.

michael_v · Feb 13, 2017

Just a note. It has previously allowed gas out, as stated before the engine has been running, it gradually lost power and with a lot of white smoke just stopped, after that it would not start again.Could this be an indication that there is a blockage somewhere in the exhaust itself?

Nodge68 · Feb 13, 2017

Possibly. If the exhaust can't get out, the engine will start, but die after a few seconds.

michael_v · Feb 13, 2017

Sounds about right for the symptoms I have. I will remove the cat and try to start, hopefully this will solve the issue. I see that it still has its original exhaust system and it has done 310000 KM's. I did note that before I started it the first time there was a smoke coming from the exhaust, after it died on me there was nothing.

Andy_J · Feb 13, 2017

Have you checked the turbo is OK?

michael_v · Feb 14, 2017

I have checked the turbo, there is no play on the turbine, it spins freely and there is no oil leaks.

michael_v · Feb 14, 2017

fantastic news. Removes the cat, turned the key and fired straight away. Looked at cat and it was totaly blocked. Will try and see if I can unblock or clean. Years of bad diesel took its toll. Now she is ready and running.

Nodge68 · Feb 14, 2017

michael_v said:
fantastic news. Removes the cat, turned the key and fired straight away. Looked at cat and it was totaly blocked. Will try and see if I can unblock or clean. Years of bad diesel took its toll. Now she is ready and running.

Just smash out the ceramic substrate and refit the empty casing. There's little need for the cat, particularly if it's just going to block.
Glad it's sorted

Alibro · Feb 14, 2017

michael_v said:
fantastic news. Removes the cat, turned the key and fired straight away. Looked at cat and it was totaly blocked. Will try and see if I can unblock or clean. Years of bad diesel took its toll. Now she is ready and running.

Woo Hoo! Nice one and good call from Nodge.
Bashing out the cat is on my 'To Do' list to get a bit more Ooomph out of Bertie.

GrumpyGel · Feb 14, 2017

Yeh, good call Nodge & well done MV.

michael_v · Feb 15, 2017

Thank you all for your inputs and assistance, now that the easy problem is resolved i need to move on to the rear window. It goes up and down without any issue, but when I open the rear door it tries to slide down slightly to enable the door to open but it does not, is there any where that I can look or maybe lubricate a bit.

michael_v · Feb 15, 2017

I would like to share something, this is purely my opinion. I was warned about purchasing a freelander. I was told it is the biggest load of nonsense (unable to say actual words) and that they have a bad reputation and they break and the are just not worth the money. Well I did not listen and went and got myself one, admitting that I have spent some time and effort to get the vehicle running I must admit that this is not a bad car, sure it has some funny quirks and spares are expensive, but I think that 90% of the issues can be resolved by yourself. My fix was actually quite simple and cost effective. They just need a bit more attention and looking after and they will keep on running. Mine has 310000 Km on the clock and all the parts were still original, including the Viscous coupling, and still she is going strong.

That is my opinion.

Nodge68 · Feb 15, 2017

I'd be changing the VCU or it could damage the IRD. Also the Freelander must have identical tyres all round or the VCU damages the IRD.

michael_v · Feb 15, 2017

Sadly there is no affordable serviceable VCU's available in South Africa, I will save up for one, but will remove it in the meantime and make it a 2 wheel drive for now. The tires are all identical and I will replace them with the same.

Alibro · Feb 15, 2017

michael_v said:
Sadly there is no affordable serviceable VCU's available in South Africa, I will save up for one, but will remove it in the meantime and make it a 2 wheel drive for now. The tires are all identical and I will replace them with the same.

Have a go, it's not that hard.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-recondition-a-vcu-yourself.307445/

michael_v · Feb 16, 2017

Thank you Alibro I will try that. I have a question regarding the ABS. If the Propshaft is removed will this have any effect on the ABS?

Madmustang · Feb 16, 2017

michael_v said:
Thank you Alibro I will try that. I have a question regarding the ABS. If the Propshaft is removed will this have any effect on the ABS?

No ABS for braking will continue to work as normal. When it comes to the vehicles traction control AWD system that’s another kettle O fish

Non starting Freelander

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