Freelander 2 (LR2) Non starter, help please

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benh999

Active Member
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175
Location
Warwickshire
Another issue. After swapping out my EGR cooler I still have a leak from rear left of the engine.

I thought the waterpump could be the culprit but to be sure I decided to remove the lower cambelt cover so I could observe it when running. To do this I removed the aux pulley and belt and undid the crank sensor. I then put it back together exactly as it came off and it just cranks and will not start.

To rule out the crank sensor I replaced it with a Bosch one and she still won’t start. Just to confirm the engine was okay I sprayed some brake cleaner down the intake and for a few seconds she ran. I checked the Rev counter when she cranks and it’s moving so surely that means the ECU is seeing crank too? I’m just not getting my injectors firing.

Any advice appreciated as I don’t yet have a diagnostic tool other than a code reader however it is something I will invest in now.

Ps after I swapped out the EGR cooler she ran perfect
 
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Hi folks. I’ve still got the same non start issue. I’ll provide an update of what we’ve tried. The pick up ring was badly worn with bits on the outside of the ring missing. I’ve got a new ring and we’ve temporarily made up a spacer so the new ring lines up with the CPS. Plugging in to the car didn’t with diagnostics bring up anything specific other than the MAP sensor. We cleared the codes and started again.

The fuel pressure seemed very low. We cracked off the nut from the fuel pump to rail and assuming it’s high pressure when we crank the car it should have been blasting out, it didn’t, it was more like a tiny trickle.

I have read that the transfer pump can play up so have put in 20L so she’s showing just under 1/2 tank now. She cranks and cranks but there is no sign of life. Brake cleaner direct to the intake will start her. Other than that she’s dead. I’m really struggling.

Any advice or tips greatly appreciated 😓
 
Did you remove the crank pulley? If so did you make sure to lock the cam timing? If not then the cam timing will shift from optimal, which can prevent an engine start.
 
Way above my pay grade, especially on F2.

But a little investigation makes me wonder why a spacer was "made up". It looks like the ring changed spec, so a 2 piece ring (that would have been originally fitted to an 07 car) was replaced by a ring and spacer - so was an old type taken off and a new type installed, but it wasn't supplied with a spacer? It should have been. It also looks like it needs a different pulley when changing to the new ring type.
 
I would start with the basics here. Get a noid light and check you actually have injector pulse.
If not then you’ve likely upset something when taking the crank sensor off.
I’m a bit confused too as I think you did say you had taken the crank pulley off in a post above?
If you did then you would have to be sure it went back on the exact same way and not clocked wrong as it would fire the injector at the wrong time. Also if the ring for the sensor is damaged at all that can cause no start.
 
No, the crank pulley has not been off.
If you didn't move the crank pulley how did you change the pick up ring for the crank sensor to read? Febi is the correct crank sensor for an 07 FL2

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w
Way above my pay grade, especially on F2.

But a little investigation makes me wonder why a spacer was "made up". It looks like the ring changed spec, so a 2 piece ring (that would have been originally fitted to an 07 car) was replaced by a ring and spacer - so was an old type taken off and a new type installed, but it wasn't supplied with a spacer? It should have been. It also looks like it needs a different pulley when changing to the new ring type.
sorry long story short. I ordered a new pick up ring not realising the early one had a built in spacer where as the new one is thin. Fitting the new ring on the old pulley means nothing lines up so to get it working we made a spacer. I have ordered a newer style Aux pulley which cures the issue(it’s just not arrived yet)
If you didn't move the crank pulley how did you change the pick up ring for the crank sensor to read? Febi is the correct crank sensor for an 07 FL2

Cm4nNk0l.jpg
1

V682fd9l.jpg
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the toothed crank pulley did not come off. The ribbed Auxillary belt did. I’ve now got the newer style think pick up ring and have ordered the correct later style aux pulley. I’m assuming as the pick up ring sits closer to the crank the crank position sensor also must be a different part number as well?
 
I would start with the basics here. Get a noid light and check you actually have injector pulse.
If not then you’ve likely upset something when taking the crank sensor off.
I’m a bit confused too as I think you did say you had taken the crank pulley off in a post above?
If you did then you would have to be sure it went back on the exact same way and not clocked wrong as it would fire the injector at the wrong time. Also if the ring for the sensor is damaged at all that can cause no start.
This may be the issue then. I did not realise the ribbed pulley had a position as I thought it was the trigger pulley that caused the injector pulse?
 
w

sorry long story short. I ordered a new pick up ring not realising the early one had a built in spacer where as the new one is thin. Fitting the new ring on the old pulley means nothing lines up so to get it working we made a spacer. I have ordered a newer style Aux pulley which cures the issue(it’s just not arrived yet)

the toothed crank pulley did not come off. The ribbed Auxillary belt did. I’ve now got the newer style think pick up ring and have ordered the correct later style aux pulley. I’m assuming as the pick up ring sits closer to the crank the crank position sensor also must be a different part number as well?
The auxiliary belt you say was removed is the crank pulley, therefore was removed the toothed pulley is the timing belt pulley so to speak.
 
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