No temp gauge

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Can anyone confirm that the temp gauge sender on the diesel is the one nearest the front of engine.Just so i can try and clean it up and see the colour of it before i order a new one.

Have :search:ed but came up with nowt! :rolleyes:
 
Gauge Sender is at the front of the engine (Item X114 in RAVE and as attached in Picture 1) and the ECU Sender is slightly further in (Item X126 in RAVE and in Picture 2)
 

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Saint.V8 said:
Gauge Sender is at the front of the engine (Item X114 in RAVE and as attached in Picture 1) and the ECU Sender is slightly further in (Item X126 in RAVE and in Picture 2)
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Saint. I think i can feel a broken wire inside the insulation just before the plug,and after a wiggle this morning i saw the temp gauge go up off the blue while cranking,but when it started it went back to the first blue line.Just a hassle having to take the inlet manifold off just to find out.Fingers crossed i will have a working temp gauge later on.

Cheers again.:)
 
rodntod said:
Thanks for that Saint. I think i can feel a broken wire inside the insulation just before the plug,and after a wiggle this morning i saw the temp gauge go up off the blue while cranking,but when it started it went back to the first blue line.Just a hassle having to take the inlet manifold off just to find out.Fingers crossed i will have a working temp gauge later on.

Cheers again.:)
Click to expand...

Manifold easy peasy no more than 15 mins, but a garage wouldn't tell you that ;)
 
Well guys ,manifold off ,opened up the insulation to find no broken wires,just the hardened insulation being bent over.Could have sworn it was a broken wire.Looks like the sensor after all.

Can anyone help with a multimeter based idiots guide test that i can use to test the plug end and the sensor itself,before ordering a new one or stripping back some more cable.
Thanks guys
Ed
 
rodntod said:
Well guys ,manifold off ,opened up the insulation to find no broken wires,just the hardened insulation being bent over.Could have sworn it was a broken wire.Looks like the sensor after all.

Can anyone help with a multimeter based idiots guide test that i can use to test the plug end and the sensor itself,before ordering a new one or stripping back some more cable.
Thanks guys
Ed
Click to expand...

Think this is datateks field I'm not an electrics fan but one would presume set meter to low rate om's connect red black wires to sensor and dip sensor in shallow hot water leaving wires exposed and watch for meter resistance to increase but what do I know eek
 
defender300td1 said:
Think this is datateks field I'm not an electrics fan but one would presume set meter to low rate om's connect red black wires to sensor and dip sensor in shallow hot water leaving wires exposed and watch for meter resistance to increase but what do I know eek
Click to expand...

Just PM ed the very man you mention mate.
Fingers crossed the oracle will get back to me soon.
more of a spanners than electrickery man mesel.
 
Just put the multimeter on the plug for the temp sender and getting 4.5v with the ign switched on,on one pin and an earth on the other pin,so wiring looking ok there. I just cant find a test for the sender itself or for the gauge.
I did try looping the pins with ign on but this brings up faulty temp gauge message on the dash,so i reckon it knows that i have bypassed the resistor in the sensor.
Feckin tronics i hate them
 
rodntod said:
Just put the multimeter on the plug for the temp sender and getting 4.5v with the ign switched on,on one pin and an earth on the other pin,so wiring looking ok there. I just cant find a test for the sender itself or for the gauge.
I did try looping the pins with ign on but this brings up faulty temp gauge message on the dash,so i reckon it knows that i have bypassed the resistor in the sensor.
Feckin tronics i hate them
Click to expand...

No no that's giving you Continuity you need to take the sensor out put it in hot water and are checking for resistance .. Is the way forward it's hot water that the brass sensor reacts with witch in turn makes your gauge rise up so your testing the sensor in hot water so it will make your needle/ digets rise make sense but don't hold me to it ..don't you do a neo be patient the masters will be on soon
 
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Think 4.5 to 5 volts is right for feed. Sensor changes this voltage according to temp. If you take sensor out connect up and hold a cigarette lighter near the bulb gauge should rise pretty quickly, if it doesn't sensor is duff. Gauge can be checked for function if you know someone with a Nanocom.
 
wammers said:
Think 4.5 to 5 volts is right for feed. Sensor changes this voltage according to temp. If you take sensor out connect up and hold a cigarette lighter near the bulb gauge should rise pretty quickly, if it doesn't sensor is duff. Gauge can be checked for function if you know someone with a Nanocom.
Click to expand...

Hold on a minute what if sensor is good and gauge is duff , what about the meter test do let us know the un obvious meanie , might not be able to get hold of diag tool come on let us know ??
 
wammers said:
Think 4.5 to 5 volts is right for feed. Sensor changes this voltage according to temp. If you take sensor out connect up and hold a cigarette lighter near the bulb gauge should rise pretty quickly, if it doesn't sensor is duff. Gauge can be checked for function if you know someone with a Nanocom.
Click to expand...

Thanks Wammers,did a resistance test on the sensor and seems to be good-cold9k ohms going to 1k ohm in freshly boiled water-so just putting it all back together and ,on what you have said maybe someone near me has a nanocom and might need some beer/wine/fag tokens :)

Strangely, i have seen the gauge moving up past the blue bits when cranking the engine occasionally ,but as soon as it fires the gauge goes back to the bottom blue line :confused::confused:
 
rodntod said:
Thanks Wammers,did a resistance test on the sensor and seems to be good-cold9k ohms going to 1k ohm in freshly boiled water-so just putting it all back together and ,on what you have said maybe someone near me has a nanocom and might need some beer/wine/fag tokens :)

Strangely, i have seen the gauge moving up past the blue bits when cranking the engine occasionally ,but as soon as it fires the gauge goes back to the bottom blue line :confused::confused:
Click to expand...


Could be a bad earth/connection at the gauge or corroded connector at the BECM. With your meter on the connector reading 4.5 volts, try flexing the wire over it's length until it goes into the loom, could still be a fractured wire.
 
Datatek said:
Could be a bad earth/connection at the gauge or corroded connector at the BECM. With your meter on the connector reading 4.5 volts, try flexing the wire over it's length until it goes into the loom, could still be a fractured wire.
Click to expand...

Cheers Keith,
for that, and all your help on this one so far ;):)
 
defender300td1 said:
Hold on a minute what if sensor is good and gauge is duff , what about the meter test do let us know the un obvious meanie , might not be able to get hold of diag tool come on let us know ??
Click to expand...

Gauge is run by BECM from changing voltage readings from sensor. Would think the only way to safely test gauge is with a diagnostic tool. Unless you want to knacker the BECM up. To be honest with what he has reported upto now it does sound like sensor is duff. If it's not the sensor he has a whole bag of worms.
 
wammers said:
Gauge is run by BECM from changing voltage readings from sensor. Would think the only way to safely test gauge is with a diagnostic tool. Unless you want to knacker the BECM up. To be honest with what he has reported upto now it does sound like sensor is duff. If it's not the sensor he has a whole bag of worms.
Click to expand...

I agree it could still be a duff sensor even though it does appear to change with temperature. The gauge can be tested with a 10K variable resistor plugged into the sensor connector.:)
The only sure way to find out where the problem is is with diagnostics.
 
wammers said:
Gauge is run by BECM from changing voltage readings from sensor. Would think the only way to safely test gauge is with a diagnostic tool. Unless you want to knacker the BECM up. To be honest with what he has reported upto now it does sound like sensor is duff. If it's not the sensor he has a whole bag of worms.
Click to expand...

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:.
 
Datatek said:
I agree it could still be a duff sensor even though it does appear to change with temperature. The gauge can be tested with a 10K variable resistor plugged into the sensor connector.:)
The only sure way to find out where the problem is is with diagnostics.
Click to expand...

To be honest Keith did not want to mention resistor as i did not know value needed. :):)
 
Ok guys a quick update.

Just ripped an old ghetto blaster apart and nicked the volume control out.
Found the relevant pins ,and using the multimeter dialled in to about 8k ohm and jumpered the plug with it.Tried dialling resistance down to 2k ohms and back up,to no avail.No movement on the gauge.

Onwards and upwards.............i think i can see something wriggling out of a can over there :eek::eek: :)
 
rodntod said:
Ok guys a quick update.

Just ripped an old ghetto blaster apart and nicked the volume control out.
Found the relevant pins ,and using the multimeter dialled in to about 8k ohm and jumpered the plug with it.Tried dialling resistance down to 2k ohms and back up,to no avail.No movement on the gauge.

Onwards and upwards.............i think i can see something wriggling out of a can over there :eek::eek: :)
Click to expand...

You haven't got wet carpet in the drivers footwell by any chance?
Most likely a broken wire or a corroded connector.
 
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