No power since independent head gasket repair

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daz8694

Member
Posts
23
Location
Newcastle upon Tyne
Hi guys, my 2002 td5 has had some issues since purchasing. I think the oil cooler orings failed (repaired) which led to water pump failure (repaired) and PAS pump failure (repaired) but because it probably overheated the head maybe warped. I have had it skimmed and refitted by an independent garage but it now has a noise similar to a noisy tappet and is hugely down on power. It had more with a warped head. I am hoping it is only that the injectors need coding, can anyone confirm this needs to be done after removal? Also is there anyone in the north east with Hawkeye or Nanocom that can carry this out? Thank you in advance for your help
 
daz8694 said:
Hi guys, my 2002 td5 has had some issues since purchasing. I think the oil cooler orings failed (repaired) which led to water pump failure (repaired) and PAS pump failure (repaired) but because it probably overheated the head maybe warped. I have had it skimmed and refitted by an independent garage but it now has a noise similar to a noisy tappet and is hugely down on power. It had more with a warped head. I am hoping it is only that the injectors need coding, can anyone confirm this needs to be done after removal? Also is there anyone in the north east with Hawkeye or Nanocom that can carry this out? Thank you in advance for your help
Click to expand...
injectors need coding if they are moved from their original cylinder,not if they go back in the same,were injector adjuster reset?
 
thank you for your advice. The injectors have been checked that they are in the correct order, they have now had the preload adjusted but this made no difference. I have disconnected the MAF sensor and it drives exactly the same. The actuator is free and not binding at all. Since it had loads more power before the head was done is there anything else that could have been “disturbed” that could cause a serious lack of power?
 
daz8694 said:
thank you for your advice. The injectors have been checked that they are in the correct order, they have now had the preload adjusted but this made no difference. I have disconnected the MAF sensor and it drives exactly the same. The actuator is free and not binding at all. Since it had loads more power before the head was done is there anything else that could have been “disturbed” that could cause a serious lack of power?
Click to expand...
timing
 
daz8694 said:
thank you for your advice. The injectors have been checked that they are in the correct order, they have now had the preload adjusted but this made no difference. I have disconnected the MAF sensor and it drives exactly the same. The actuator is free and not binding at all. Since it had loads more power before the head was done is there anything else that could have been “disturbed” that could cause a serious lack of power?
Click to expand...
When you mention the pre load do you mean the backlash on the rocker arms which drive the injectors?
It can make a difference if not set up correctly, I saw that some people open it up a bit, so I tried but it was not good and the engine rattled on the top end, so I put it back to the correct setting, and it was much better.
 
E45DCC5C-43A3-4E2A-A813-1D0B13C98151.jpeg
I haven’t used the truck for a while as I’m paranoid about it and I’m concerned that it is indeed badly timed. I bought some pins to double check and my findings are as follows. I wound the engine over by hand until I could get the timing mark on the cam pulley aligned with the 2 bright links. Since the bung had clearly never been out of the bell housing (still thick in years of grime and oil etc has defo never seen a spanner lately) and unless the mechanic had timed it using a DTC gauge, which I doubt, I thought this might be a good starting point. I turned the engine over around 18 times to ensure I had made 100% sure it was alligbed as much as possible. The image below is with the cam locked, the groove in the cam shaft aligned as close as I can get to the 2 bright links. Unfortunately the groove in the flywheel is nowhere to be seen through the hole in the bellhousing and obviously the crank locking pin won’t screw in.
I just thought I’d ask opinions in case I’m wrong but I think this worryingly confirms it is out of time
 
daz8694 said:
View attachment 162659 I haven’t used the truck for a while as I’m paranoid about it and I’m concerned that it is indeed badly timed. I bought some pins to double check and my findings are as follows. I wound the engine over by hand until I could get the timing mark on the cam pulley aligned with the 2 bright links. Since the bung had clearly never been out of the bell housing (still thick in years of grime and oil etc has defo never seen a spanner lately) and unless the mechanic had timed it using a DTC gauge, which I doubt, I thought this might be a good starting point. I turned the engine over around 18 times to ensure I had made 100% sure it was alligbed as much as possible. The image below is with the cam locked, the groove in the cam shaft aligned as close as I can get to the 2 bright links. Unfortunately the groove in the flywheel is nowhere to be seen through the hole in the bellhousing and obviously the crank locking pin won’t screw in.
I just thought I’d ask opinions in case I’m wrong but I think this worryingly confirms it is out of time
Click to expand...
dont worry about the marked links you need to fit both pins crank first then cam
 
Crank pin installed tonight. No sign of the key way on the camshaft it looks to be about 180 degrees out. That’s it for me. It’s confirmed my worst fears. I’m not going any further. It’s going to a specialist for repair and then I’ll take up the costs with the garage that did the cylinder head gasket repair
 
daz8694 said:
Crank pin installed tonight. No sign of the key way on the camshaft it looks to be about 180 degrees out. That’s it for me. It’s confirmed my worst fears. I’m not going any further. It’s going to a specialist for repair and then I’ll take up the costs with the garage that did the cylinder head gasket repair
Click to expand...
yu might need to give the chance to repair it first, and get an independent Engineers report, first.
 
daz8694 said:
Crank pin installed tonight. No sign of the key way on the camshaft it looks to be about 180 degrees out. That’s it for me. It’s confirmed my worst fears. I’m not going any further. It’s going to a specialist for repair and then I’ll take up the costs with the garage that did the cylinder head gasket repair
Click to expand...
turn crank round once then refit crank pin
 
Well that’s also confirmed my worst fears that I’m better off getting someone else to do it, I still think the timing is out maybe a tooth, but I can’t rely on help to spin the engine while I’m under neath so I figure I’ll leave it alone.
 
Since I didn’t have someone to wind over the engine by hand technology came to my assistance and I managed to use my phone camera to line up the crank pin. Instantly found the cam to be a tooth out . I’ve adjusted it and it now runs unbelievably differently. I would recommend timing a TD5 using the locking pins rather than links etc. The pins are a tight fit so the timing is absolutely spot on.
 
Absolutely. I had marked the bottom pulley so I could line it up again a little bit more easily if I had to. Wound it over by hand 5 full revolutions to ensure the tensioner settled and there was no undue resistance. I do wonder if the top pulley could slip and make an otherwise healthy disco or defender really sluggish.
 
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