New (to me) LT230

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Well, that was a journey.

New LOF clutch (4 spring HD version) transmits a bit of shake into the gearbox which causes a bit of a shimmy into the transfer box which agitates the center diff, especially when it is unweighetd (ie no prop shafts).
It's a very scary noise ... several small children with tins of marbles and a demented drummer on acid with broken sticks smacking the shit out of many and various dustbin lids.
Then there's the class of trainee tap dancers practising on 6mm plate.

20240514_200745.jpg


The 'shimmy' is the engine vibrations transmitted through the crank shaft to the flywheel and into the clutch.
Vibrations, which are nominally absorbed by the clutch plate springs, unless they are extra thick, heavy duty mothers designed to flex only when several hundred NM's of torque crash into them, are consequently passed into the R380 and LT230 and rattles their bones.
A bit like the yellow HD springs that Britpart sell you feel every lump and bump, cats eyes make your teeth rattle and if you drive over 'traffic calming measures' at more than 15mph, you take off.

Thick oil (says the clutch man [Moog])
MTF94 says Mr Winchester.
Dexron III is what's currently in there.

Mr Winchester wins that competion and I will live with the tap dancer on tickover when in neutral.
The new LT230 has made a positive difference.

Now I just need to rebuild the transfer box levers, fit the transmission brake, refit the tunnel etc and we'll be back is business.

Mr Wichester Gears has been very supportive throught my angst BTW.
Highly reccommended.
 
All sounds Logical. I had a solid centre plate clutch in the Dauphine, but it had to go due to the snatch it was putting down the Drive line. This is no good when parts are not available to keep renewing all the guts of the gearbox regularly. Oils are interesting, again the Renault has a Transaxle which really wants 2 oils, but as it shares a casing, that can't happen. Modern gear oils are a Quantum leap on what was available, like Engine oils of now and 30 years ago. Essentially EP number and gear loading go up hand in hand, but the Synchromesh mechanism wants a light oil to function best. I have put a straight 75EP in the Landy box as it is Light enough to take the strain off the Synchros,but provides good Extreme pressure protection to the gear teeth as they are all helical style. I have put Lucas oil EP75/140 in the Transfer box and axles as the shearing loads increase as we travel down the Driveline. As the axles are Hypoid bevels the shearing forces are incredible as the wiping action of the gears is many times higher than a helical gear. This is why modern motors use thin gearbox oils as there's no Hypoid just a big spur gear. I was tempted to try the multi grade in the box, but bottled it and went with thin EP. The Lucas stuff is thinner than Straight 80, but gives the 140 protection level. It isn't high sulphur, so won't dissolve your Landy.....
 
As you say, too thick (EP90 for example) would stain the syncro and also wouldn't be pumped around enough when it was cool(ish).
MTF94 is slightly lighter than 75W80 (from what I can determine).
I've gone for a staight 75W (Top TEC 5100) too, which puts me near to the border of 'too thick' but not over the boundary.
I've got good old Westway 85W90 (GL-5 Hypoid) in the LT230 and the diffs.
 
LT230R / LT230T. (Roler vs Taper)

110 Select 2/4 WD / LT230 R / 10D00001 = 1.667:1
110 4 cilinder / LT230 R / 12D00001 = 1.667:1
110 4 cilinder / LT230 R / 13D00001 = 1.410:1
110 Isuzu 4BD1 / LT230 R / 14D00001 = 1.003:1
90 / 110 V8 (LT85) / LT230 R / 15D00001 = 1.192 :1
90/110 4 cilinder / LT230 T / 20D00001 = 1.667:1
90/110 2.5 Turbo / LT230 T / 22D00001 = 1.410:1 (sorry this one)
Etc…….


The LT 230 R (1983 - 1986), where the middle gear set rotated on needle bearing cages (quite noisy).
Suffix A and B were equipped with narrow land wheels, from Suffix C the R had wider (and quieter) gears. LT230 R Low in all versions: 3.321 : 1 (3.32 : 1),
The LT 230 T (1985 - 2006). The T stands for "taper" roller, the intermediate shaft is mounted on 2 roller bearings. LT230 T Low in all versions: 3.321: 1 (3.32: 1),
The LT 230 Q (1998 - present) Q stands for 'quiet'.
 
Well here we are 1 month later and it's all coming out again.
The death rattle was to much to bear and a repacement gearbox arrived yesterday ....

WhatsApp Image 2024-08-07 at 17.32.10_0d350f47.jpg


So I set about emptying and removing the LT230, no problems as i've done it 3 times in the last 2 months.
Just to make it interesting I did it with my eyes shut.

WhatsApp Image 2024-08-07 at 17.32.11_c10750ae.jpg


I noticed there was a bit of a weep around the sump cover so have ordered a new gasket.

insidethe230.jpg
 
Next was to recover the black gold from the gearbox.
I've only driven around 50 miles so it's still as-good-as.

I set up my super funnel, (why didn't the gearbox drain plug man talk to the cross-member guy ?), position the funnel and the can .. reach over and loosen off the drain plug.
Controling the outpouring a few moments later I feel a coolish damp patch on my head, I look up (why ??) and see the oil drizzling off the back edge of the x-member and soaking into my new summer jumper (well I am in Scotland).

Now EP90 smells pretty bad, but Moly 5100 makes EP90 smell like a cheap supermarket shower gell ... I felt it running down inside my tee shirt - why can you never get the drain plug in quickly when you need too.

I readjusted the super funnel, wiped the oil off my head, removed the drain plug and went home ...

20240807_211314.jpg


Another thing I found out is that Molybonebendum rich oil is quite resillient and stains things black ...
I now look a bit badgerish with a black blob disrupting my normaly silver hue'd head....

And it makes the washing machine smell.
Thank god the Mrs is away this week...
 
I probably shouldn't tell you this -
But I honestly get weak at the knees at the sight of a shiny LT230 on the bench

For some reason not so with a R380 on the bench
 
“And it makes the washing machine smell.“

And no doubt will stain it or wait until the next wash.

Hang on, since when did you learn to use a washing machine?
 
miktdish said:
Next was to recover the black gold from the gearbox.
I've only driven around 50 miles so it's still as-good-as.

I set up my super funnel, (why didn't the gearbox drain plug man talk to the cross-member guy ?), position the funnel and the can .. reach over and loosen off the drain plug.
Controling the outpouring a few moments later I feel a coolish damp patch on my head, I look up (why ??) and see the oil drizzling off the back edge of the x-member and soaking into my new summer jumper (well I am in Scotland).

Now EP90 smells pretty bad, but Moly 5100 makes EP90 smell like a cheap supermarket shower gell ... I felt it running down inside my tee shirt - why can you never get the drain plug in quickly when you need too.

I readjusted the super funnel, wiped the oil off my head, removed the drain plug and went home ...

View attachment 323399

Another thing I found out is that Molybonebendum rich oil is quite resillient and stains things black ...
I now look a bit badgerish with a black blob disrupting my normaly silver hue'd head....

And it makes the washing machine smell.
Thank god the Mrs is away this week...
Click to expand...
Was it wrong for me to laugh at every bit of this 🤔
Seriously though, I hope this works mate.
 
Are you using a gearbox oil with Graphite additives?? I ask, as I usually stay away from super low anti-friction additives, as they don't do the Synchros any favours. Not a Criticism, just a curious Lad....
If it was the Transfer box you were talking about then please ignore me.
I'll send my address if there's any Fruit loaf left.
 
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