P38A New P38 EAS

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oakey

oakey

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Mull of Kintyre
1990 4.6 Thor
New to me so dont know history but
EAS light says is at standard but is obviously not at the back.
Nanocom wont work so using RSW software which gives me that the rear is at correct height.
What am I missing?
Its not that it leaks and cant get to height as pump switches off and it stays at height
 
oakey said:
1990 4.6 Thor
New to me so dont know history but
EAS light says is at standard but is obviously not at the back.
Nanocom wont work so using RSW software which gives me that the rear is at correct height.
What am I missing?
Its not that it leaks and cant get to height as pump switches off and it stays at height
Click to expand...
How do you know with the EAS software that the height is correct? All it gives is the bit count. Maybe it just needs calibrating. You can change the height of each corner manually with the EAS software, have you tried to raise the rear that way?
 
Thanks for replies
When I try other heights it doesnt move
I havent tried a new relay
Yes is only a bit count but count but to get the bit count high enough I would be outwith the programmed maximum and would be at the same as for the extended height
 
oakey said:
Thanks for replies
When I try other heights it doesnt move
I havent tried a new relay
Yes is only a bit count but count but to get the bit count high enough I would be outwith the programmed maximum and would be at the same as for the extended height
Click to expand...
No faults logged? So you have changed the bit counts in the "Heights" tab and get no movement? Check the connectors in the EAS box especially the one under the valve block for loos pins and corrosion.
 
Sorry for delay had to go see son for few days.
Right I have done some more footering all with RSW Software
The lights say she was at height but patently wasnt at the back.
Adjusted settings until both level but faulted cos too high target count so turned them down a wee bit.
She dropped to access as soon as turned off with doors open or closed. Dashboard knew door was open.
Pulled relay from passenger seat and she stays at height no problem, put relay back and instantly dropped.
Now left for few days and .....
Goes to height no problem but two inches high on drivers side and two inches low in passenger side.
No longer drops when switched off.
Confused.com
 
I had a similar problem recently. Had to change a couple of height sensors and a few height settings which improved things - especially it sounds like your rear height sensors are FUBAR. Ultimately the self-levelling is playing up - whether in the time between ignition off and dormant state, or when it wakes up and self levels - but most likely just because of the data it is receving from the sensors and the logic the sytem then applies... I think if you want to eliminate the self-levelling issue completely you will most likely need to renew all the sensors, so that the height at each end of each axle corresponds to approx the same/ similar bit count at the other end (ie replace the sensors in pairs). Since the system is resistance driven then i guess the system can also get thrown by a change in the resistance / deterioration of the wiring/ a connector to the sensors - but that's quite hard to solve without starting to pull wires out.
If the EAS is not responding to the height switch and moving to other heights then I would check the LH footwell connector for green pins.
If only there was a function in nano to "turn self-levelling off" : o)
 
Last edited:
Ok thank you I will have a wee look at the footwell connectors. See how they look first of all. It is a much younger car than my other one so they should be OK but I will try and have a look today and check the connectors from the sensors too as I believe they dont go via the footwell?
 
oakey said:
Ok thank you I will have a wee look at the footwell connectors. See how they look first of all. It is a much younger car than my other one so they should be OK but I will try and have a look today and check the connectors from the sensors too as I believe they dont go via the footwell?
Click to expand...
That's what I thought about mine.... found a green pin that broke as soon as the connector halves were separated.. Btw - how can yours be both 1990 and Thor?
 
kermit_rr said:
If i recall, it self levels with the eas relay removed, once the engine is running
Click to expand...
not 100% sure, maybe, I just put a yellow relay in it... but didn't spend time testing the theory myself. But yes, the special EAS relay is meant to be the bit that allows the EAS to work at ignition off, so it should self level with the engine on. Self-levelling with ignition off is completely pointless anyway IMHO
 
EAS will not function at all with the relay removed because ECU will not be powered !! Some people swap it for a standard relay to prevent self levelling when parked, but it's definitely required for diagnostics to connect.

The reason is because EAS Unlock & Nanocom trigger the relay to reboot the ECU, and then immediately send the connect data sequence. It appears the ECU only listens for this sequence at power up.
 
pwood999 said:
EAS will not function at all with the relay removed because ECU will not be powered !! Some people swap it for a standard relay to prevent self levelling when parked, but it's definitely required for diagnostics to connect.

The reason is because EAS Unlock & Nanocom trigger the relay to reboot the ECU, and then immediately send the connect data sequence. It appears the ECU only listens for this sequence at power up.
Click to expand...
I drive with the relay unplugged i forgot to plug it back in.. eas seemed to work normally
 
oakey said:
Ok thank you I will have a wee look at the footwell connectors. See how they look first of all. It is a much younger car than my other one so they should be OK but I will try and have a look today and check the connectors from the sensors too as I believe they dont go via the footwell?
Click to expand...
The white connectors were a mess on my 99 and my late 2000.
 
kermit_rr said:
I drive with the relay unplugged i forgot to plug it back in.. eas seemed to work normally
Click to expand...
I'm assuming you did that on mine? That might be why i've not been able to connect to the eas through the nanocom then as it just hangs and doesn't do the beep that I think it should when it tries to communicate.
 
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