New Guy Be Gentle!

Hi all,
First let me say i know absolutly feck all about landrovers except i want one!
I love the small 200tdi (i think this is a 90?)
Could any of you kind souls tell me if this would be a good first rover?
must be diesel. Anything to avoid or look out for.
Not buying just yey but, doing all the research i can. Only would have up to 2k to play with so not much i know. Im a paint sprayer and can do up the body ok, so a tatty one i suppose.
hope you can help with info and look forward to many threads and craic!
Cheers
Ron

falcoron said:

Hi all,
First let me say i know absolutly feck all about landrovers except i want one!
I love the small 200tdi (i think this is a 90?)
Could any of you kind souls tell me if this would be a good first rover?
must be diesel. Anything to avoid or look out for.
Not buying just yey but, doing all the research i can. Only would have up to 2k to play with so not much i know. Im a paint sprayer and can do up the body ok, so a tatty one i suppose.
hope you can help with info and look forward to many threads and craic!
Cheers
Ron

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32 views and no opinions
not like the bike forum then

Bout ye Ron, welcome tae the mad hoose

you only gave it an hour or so! and its late. folk on here are old and need to sleep your also better off posting in the defender section if your after a 90. also go to the search engine and type in various things like "buying a 90" etc. see what you come up with. plenty on here, its all been asked before. you should be able to pick up a standard early tatty 200tdi 90 for 2k. just make sure its mechanically sound. if your not in a rush, take your time and have a look around. keep your eye on ebay, autotrader, forums, 4x4web and everywhere you drive! something will come up.

G

falcoron said:

Hi all,
First let me say i know absolutly feck all about landrovers except i want one!
I love the small 200tdi (i think this is a 90?)
Could any of you kind souls tell me if this would be a good first rover?
must be diesel. Anything to avoid or look out for.
Not buying just yey but, doing all the research i can. Only would have up to 2k to play with so not much i know. Im a paint sprayer and can do up the body ok, so a tatty one i suppose.
hope you can help with info and look forward to many threads and craic!
Cheers
Ron

Click to expand...

Welcome, welcome, yes diesel, pref turbo, but 2grand dunt seem like a lot, yer might be able to paint but mechanics probably need dun as well, take a mechanic wif yer and do a good search on here so you know what to look for, a fooked g/box is fairly serious work and costly, and common.

Whilst we are here what the fook do you use to stop rust comming back through both on alloy and steel, ground the bastid down to bare metal put that ****e acid gel stuff on but it still comes back through, un it's only blisters not holed or that.

Got two cans of that acid etch red cans stuff cant remember what it's called, will that work this time.

david451 said:

Welcome, welcome, yes diesel, pref turbo, but 2grand dunt seem like a lot, yer might be able to paint but mechanics probably need dun as well, take a mechanic wif yer and do a good search on here so you know what to look for, a fooked g/box is fairly serious work and costly, and common.

Whilst we are here what the fook do you use to stop rust comming back through both on alloy and steel, ground the bastid down to bare metal put that ****e acid gel stuff on but it still comes back through, un it's only blisters not holed or that.

Got two cans of that acid etch red cans stuff cant remember what it's called, will that work this time.

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Steel is simple enough to get right, first if its corroded through then its tim to cut out and replace with sound metal. if its just rust the this need removed totally. shot blast is best as it gets into any pitting that may be there. once cleaned it needs a really good zinc rich 2 pack primer. then a 2 pack filler primer/surfacer. The after rubbing smooth and filling any pitting with 3m red acrylic stopper, smooth again and add another light coat of primer. finish with 2 pack acrylic for the best results.
Long winded i know but if you want to stop it this is the way.
Aluminium is a cnut of a metal to work with, if its old and corroded.
If its good then it needs well abraded with 240 grit abrasive medium, then only use a very good quality 2 pack etch primer to coat "all" surfaces, a raw edge will soon break down again. then follow the primer and top coat as above.
For corroded alu. then again its time to replace if your serious about stopping the rot. if you cant replace, then you must clean as best you can.
then follow the steps above.
It goes without saying (but i will anyway) everything must be really clean dry and degreased with a proper bodyshop panel wipe fluid.
earosol cans containing etch or other primers are crap. May as well **** out the window in a gale!
Keeping alloy and steel apart helps, as there is a chemical process that attacks the alloy and rots it quicker than suger in a tea cup (stainless makes it worse)
Hope this helps. Remember keep it clean!
Oh and if its blistering its probably moisture coming through from the other side of the panel. you need to clean this back to bare metal and etch and prime then waxoyl. YOU CAN NEVER STOP IT ONCE ITS THERE, ONLY SLOW IT DOWN!!

falcoron said:

Steel is simple enough to get right, first if its corroded through then its tim to cut out and replace with sound metal. if its just rust the this need removed totally. shot blast is best as it gets into any pitting that may be there. once cleaned it needs a really good zinc rich 2 pack primer. then a 2 pack filler primer/surfacer. The after rubbing smooth and filling any pitting with 3m red acrylic stopper, smooth again and add another light coat of primer. finish with 2 pack acrylic for the best results.
Long winded i know but if you want to stop it this is the way.
Aluminium is a cnut of a metal to work with, if its old and corroded.
If its good then it needs well abraded with 240 grit abrasive medium, then only use a very good quality 2 pack etch primer to coat "all" surfaces, a raw edge will soon break down again. then follow the primer and top coat as above.
For corroded alu. then again its time to replace if your serious about stopping the rot. if you cant replace, then you must clean as best you can.
then follow the steps above.
It goes without saying (but i will anyway) everything must be really clean dry and degreased with a proper bodyshop panel wipe fluid.
earosol cans containing etch or other primers are crap. May as well **** out the window in a gale!
Keeping alloy and steel apart helps, as there is a chemical process that attacks the alloy and rots it quicker than suger in a tea cup (stainless makes it worse)
Hope this helps. Remember keep it clean!
Oh and if its blistering its probably moisture coming through from the other side of the panel. you need to clean this back to bare metal and etch and prime then waxoyl

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Cheers for that, Acid#8 was the stuff I got from the paint store, told me it was the dogs bollocks as well.

When you get your vehicle give it a full inspection then you know where your project starts, get a landie guru to do it though, and remember dunt go out into the woods alone to start wif, "just to try it out" and do a proper search here before you go and buy a load of ****e for it.

If there was one thing I would tell anybody to buy it would be waffle boards, it's a portable road/bridge and if yer stuck sure as fook it will get you out, and it aint costly either.

Remember to post pics, everybody likes pics here.

Only got pics of me BMW 1150gs project i finished and of me dug!

falcoron said:

Only got pics of me BMW 1150gs project i finished and of me dug!

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I have two dogs, beardie collies.

Good luck with yer hunting and let us know how you get on.