New car, new member. HELLO!

kermit_rr · Jan 20, 2020

gold rover said:
Ummm might be being a bit silly here but the issue doesn't seem to be steel . I had it explained that it's not rust, it's corrosion, and some reaction between the metal and aluminium.
I'm sure someone cleverer, who knows L322s, like @Saint.V8, can explain better

Rust isn't corrosion? Confused!

gold rover · Jan 20, 2020

kermit_rr said:
Rust isn't corrosion? Confused!

I knew I was saying it all wrong.

Not saying rust isn't corrosion, but that the bubbling and orangey stuff on L322 wheel arches etc, isn't rust. I can't remember how it was said but it was explained as it's not rust, it's a corrosion. Because as we all know , rust is not the only corrosion.

kermit_rr · Jan 20, 2020

gold rover said:
I knew I was saying it all wrong. Not saying rust isn't corrosion, but that the bubbling and orangey stuff on L322 wheel arches etc, isn't rust. I can't remember how it was said but it was explained as it's not rust, it's a corrosion. Because as we all know , rust is not the only corrosion.

Sorry yes, misunderstood what you were saying

myfirstl322 · Jan 20, 2020

Made my day that has.

Saint.V8 · Jan 20, 2020

The Hull (monocoque - spelling??) is all steel, the exterior panels are aluminium, the bonnet is steel as is the tailgate....

They do rust where damage has occured, and galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion also occurs where water has got between the steel and the aluminium.

The L322, does rust around the rear arches, front and rear door jambs, the tailgate and bonnet edges if they are damaged and the paint is scratched to the base material.

Most common is the rear arches and tailgate.

The only Land Rover that is mostly rust free is the P38....and I do say mostly - aside from tailgate and damaged chassis areas.

gstuart · Jan 20, 2020

Saint.V8 said:
The Hull (monocoque - spelling??) is all steel, the exterior panels are aluminium, the bonnet is steel as is the tailgate....

They do rust where damage has occured, and galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion also occurs where water has got between the steel and the aluminium.

The L322, does rust around the rear arches, front and rear door jambs, the tailgate and bonnet edges if they are damaged and the paint is scratched to the base material.

Most common is the rear arches and tailgate.

The only Land Rover that is mostly rust free is the P38....and I do say mostly - aside from tailgate and damaged chassis areas.

hi mate

That’s very interesting ref the P38

Must admit think the D3/4 is also mostly rust free, only issue I’ve seen is, if side steps are fitted it acts like a water trap on the sills , also haven’t seen one chassis req welding as of yet

gold rover · Jan 20, 2020

Saint.V8 said:
The Hull (monocoque - spelling??) is all steel, the exterior panels are aluminium, the bonnet is steel as is the tailgate....

They do rust where damage has occured, and galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion also occurs where water has got between the steel and the aluminium.

The L322, does rust around the rear arches, front and rear door jambs, the tailgate and bonnet edges if they are damaged and the paint is scratched to the base material.

Most common is the rear arches and tailgate.

The only Land Rover that is mostly rust free is the P38....and I do say mostly - aside from tailgate and damaged chassis areas.

That's interesting. I bought one of those magnetic car ribbons , not long after buying the Golden Girl. Never could use it, as it wouldn't stick to the tailgate. Always believed it was because it was alunminium. It's stuck to the fridge now.

Saint.V8 · Jan 20, 2020

gold rover said:
That's interesting. I bought one of those magnetic car ribbons , not long after buying the Golden Girl. Never could use it, as it wouldn't stick to the tailgate. Always believed it was because it was alunminium. It's stuck to the fridge now.

Red coloured corrosion is Iron Oxide ....... aluminium/steel dissimilar metal corrosion is usually white and powdery...and maybe a hint of red rust colour from the damaged steel.

Henry_b · Jan 20, 2020

If you grind back the steel on an L322 above or "around" a rot spot, you can usually see the contamination in the steel, usually shown as black dots on otherwise "clean steel" the RRC suffered the same affliction once they started using the 16 gauge from August "89 onwards

The P38 on the other hand doesn't rot, mine is old and abused, no rust anywhere..

Rear seatbelt mounting areas are also a hot spot for rot on an L322.

Salisbury Nick · Jan 21, 2020

Datatek said:
The difference between a P38 heap of trouble and an L322 heap of trouble is a factor of 10 in terms of complexity and cost

Well yes. But I was trying to be encouraging

tomcat59alan · Jan 21, 2020

Salisbury Nick said:
Well yes. But I was trying to be encouraging

Forever the optimist hey.

kevstar · Jan 21, 2020

I found a restoration project in someone's garden at the weekend I really wanted to for a closer look....

Tricky of York · Jan 21, 2020

Uplift said:
Thanks all. Yes I'll be researching good welders, I think the issue will be finding a good one wanting to do it. Won't be a small amount of work and having to make everything will take time. Love the car though, well looked after mechanical,shame to be let down by rot.

Hi and welcome to LZ,
I hope you enjoyed your first tidal wave of support and look forward to seeing some before and after pics in the "What have you done with your Range Rover today" thread. Looks like your going to be spending some time on here in the future. Good luck and well done for taking the plunge into RR ownership. Cheers.
Tricky.

RangeRoller dt · Jan 22, 2020

kevstar said:
I found a restoration project in someone's garden at the weekend I really wanted to for a closer look....
View attachment 198574

Reported - boat by deception

You get some shabby chassied (new word) P38s too but it’s easy to find a very good condition one.
There are pukka L322s underneath but not so easy to come by. Nearly all I’ve seen are worse than my 25yr old yet as it’s a fair gauge metal so can normally be repaired just don’t put it in a ditch or something

gold rover · Jan 22, 2020

Henry_b said:
If you grind back the steel on an L322 above or "around" a rot spot, you can usually see the contamination in the steel, usually shown as black dots on otherwise "clean steel" the RRC suffered the same affliction once they started using the 16 gauge from August "89 onwards

The P38 on the other hand doesn't rot, mine is old and abused, no rust anywhere..

Rear seatbelt mounting areas are also a hot spot for rot on an L322.

Sadly, that very problem was the main reason my V8 Disco was almost scrapped. It hadn't been an issue on the previous MoT, a year later and they were completely rotten.
The upside was, after trying loads of garages, who wouldn't touch the welding, I found my friendly, generic, Indy. Who did the welding, then looked after her , until I traded for the L322. He then looked after the more general side of the Golden Girl, until he retired last year.

DanClarke · Jan 22, 2020

Welcome on board.

L322 is a lovely model for sure, but I'm sticking with my P38 for now.
Good luck getting all your welding sorted and putting it back into tip-top shape and saving another car.

RangeRoller dt · Jan 22, 2020

gold rover said:
I found my friendly, generic, Indy. Who did the welding, then looked after her , until I traded for the L322. He then looked after the more general side of the Golden Girl, until he retired last year.

+1
Knowing a good local Indy that’s into LRs has been half the battle won.
Just knowing if I try and dig myself into a deeper hole that he will be around to pull me out, will check my work and advise me is a great security
Problem is such people are always booked up to the eyeballs

Uplift · Feb 17, 2020

kevstar said:
Welcome to lz matey, peeps tend to stay away from britpart parts but cheap & cheerful if funds are tight.

What's the issue with Britpart? I spoke to an independent LR garage last week who swear by them. What am I missing?

Datatek said:
Welcome. The best thing you can do with an L322 is burn it before it bankrupts you.

Thanks, this was also the advice from the same independent above!!

tomcat59alan · Feb 17, 2020

The issue is quality, cheaper option so more profit for the Indy.

RangeRoller dt · Feb 17, 2020

Uplift said:
What's the issue with Britpart? I spoke to an independent LR garage last week who swear by them. What am I missing?

some stuff is okay, great in fact, more complex parts generally aren’t up to job.

My example would be P38 diesel lift pumps. OE is silly money, VDO is £120 and up to the job, Britpart is £35 because it will be crap.
Dangerous thing is you will presume it’s got a new pump so be looking for the issue elsewhere. Then things get expensive with little result.

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