Nanocom Results / Rough Starting

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ok, borrowed a similar kit. Results are:

1: 360psi / 25 bar
2: 300psi / 20 bar
3: 380psi / 26 bar
4: 300psi / 20 bar

Whether that is related to anything I have no idea!!! I have read somewhere they should be within 10% of each other.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know how long the engine should crank for when doing this test? I just thought I'd do it again to see if I get identical readings and cranking for 12 seconds I got 31 bar on Cyl 4 ! On the test above I was cranking for probably around 2 to 3 seconds
 
Last edited:
tom1979 said:
Does anyone know how long the engine should crank for when doing this test? I just thought I'd do it again to see if I get identical readings and cranking for 12 seconds I got 31 bar on Cyl 4 ! On the test above I was cranking for probably around 2 to 3 seconds
Click to expand...

The test kit I've got says 5secs
 
IMO you found the problem... i'm not mechanically minded enough to tell you what's the cure but i've read enough about such things and i know that higher than normal compression is a problem as well as lower(those 20 Bar ones) corroborated with the big difference between them... afaik it's something to do with decompresion cams or valves ....i'm sure somebody more knowleadgeable in engine faults will enlight us
 
tom1979 said:
The children in the Chinese workhouse must have left my instructions out! After 5 seconds Cyl 4 was at 30bar. I will do the test again but this time I will crank each for the same amount of time.
Click to expand...

I guess it just to ensure each piston has gone through a full cycle and shouldn't vary much after that. Cranking rpm is pretty slow and a couple of seconds might not do it.
 
sierrafery said:
IMO you found the problem... i'm not mechanically minded enough to tell you what's the cure but i've read enough about such things and i know that higher than normal compression is a problem as well as lower(those 20 Bar ones) corroborated with the big difference between them... afaik it's something to do with decompresion cams or valves ....i'm sure somebody more knowleadgeable in engine faults will enlight us
Click to expand...

I don't think I did the test scientifically enough. Cylinder 4 if left for 5 seconds is at 30 bar. I don't know how low compression would mask itself as air getting into the bores somehow either - the vehicle starts very strongly and THEN stutters for a few seconds then runs fine. Seems to only happen when it's been left which is making me lean more towards air being drawn in somewhere. I was concerned about the hissing noise coming from the head but apparently that is noticed on some vehicles and not on others.
 
Last edited:
I dont know that but i'm thinking that as they were so bad at the beginning it's somehow the same like when your engine starts well after it ran a bit and it makes tricks only at cold start and as you cranked it many times untill this good result it might be something... i'm even more stumped than you are, i dont envy you at all with this oddity
 
sierrafery said:
I dont know that but i'm thinking that as they were so bad at the beginning it's somehow the same like when your engine starts well after it ran a bit and it makes tricks only at cold start and as you cranked it many times untill thios good result... i'm even more stumped than you are, i dont envy you at all with this oddity
Click to expand...

It's the hissing noise from the head that I cannot understand. I have never noticed it before - but then we only notice stuff when we're looking for problems!

Turner Engineering have told me that if the head was cracked in the fuel rail there would be diesel in the oil, for definite.
If it was a head gasket issue I would be losing coolant (plus the smoke stinks of diesel) ?
Leaky injector - how unlucky would I be to have another leaking injector in another set that came from a running vehicle with no problems?
Injector washers - what are the chances of doing it 4 times and they still don't seal ?
I don't think the injectors are sticking as I have rolled it over by hand with the rocker shaft off and none of the plungers budged at all

I reckon if I do ever get to the bottom of it it'll be something really simple!

I would love to just change the head for an AMC one and not have the constant worry that mine (10P) is going to crack, but I don't know if that's the problem or not.
 
Last edited:
tom1979 said:
It's the hissing noise from the head that I cannot understand. I have never noticed it before - but then we only notice stuff when we're looking for problems!

Turner Engineering have told me that if the head was cracked in the fuel rail there would be diesel in the oil, for definite.
If it was a head gasket issue I would be losing coolant (plus the smoke stinks of diesel) ?
Leaky injector - how unlucky would I be to have another leaking injector in another set that came from a running vehicle with no problems?
Injector washers - what are the chances of doing it 4 times and they still don't seal ?
I don't think the injectors are sticking as I have rolled it over by hand with the rocker shaft off and none of the plungers budged at all

I reckon if I do ever get to the bottom of it it'll be something really simple!

I would love to just change the head for an AMC one and not have the constant worry that mine (10P) is going to crack, but I don't know if that's the problem or not.
Click to expand...
When you do the seals your making sure the injector bores/ seats are spotlessly clean-yes?
 
Does anyone know what the effect of a blocked filter within the fuel pressure regulator would be? I found this on Google (here)

"Whatever you do, make sure the little filter-gauze between the FPR and the head gets changed: this can get blocked if a TD5 has had injector copper-washer issues and/or 'black sludge' in the fuel-tank. The filter's a few pence - getting at it if it blocks is expensive!"

Obviously they are nearer £50 than just pence, but wondered what the effect of it being blocked would be and why copper washer issues would cause it to block ?
 
That filter can be cleaned with carb cleaner or petrol cos it's steel but afaik if it's clogged you have no power under load exactly like with low pressure cos all it does is to restrict fuel flow, a bit different than what's with your's though cant hurt to check it after all the work you've done
 
I did the compression test again this morning and all readings were consistently 1 bar under yesterdays figures. I think I was barking up the wrong tree there anyway but good to know anyway.
 
tom1979 said:
For info, this is the “hissing” noise from the head - probably more of a rushing noise than hissing

Click to expand...


Would be interested to know if this sound is heard on other's 10P engines - I know I cannot hear it on my Discovery 16P engine....

It seems there is air coming from the FPR, I can stop it with my finger
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MAF Diver
Disco 2 Nanocom/RAVE manual is wrong: adjusting windows after removing key and opening a door?
Replies
4
Views
409
MAF Diver
MAF Diver
JockHiltz
TD5 Hard Starting
2 3
Replies
49
Views
4K
KISSMYAURA
KISSMYAURA
F
ECU swap config Aircon and ABS on nanocom?
Replies
4
Views
1K
fumiyasu
F
DefendingLancashire
300TDI Four-parter: brake wear, lift pump / fuel filter, turbo, and bushes / squeaking
Replies
13
Views
484
miktdish
miktdish
T
TD5 Defender Starting Problems
Replies
16
Views
2K
TCI Defenders
T
Back
Top