Nanocom Results / Rough Starting

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sierrafery said:
... did you replace the air bleed valve in the filter head?
Click to expand...

No, I haven't. But the only reason for that is that it starts fine, I thought that would cause starting problems i.e. non-starting? Mine starts on the flick of the key, just runs like crap for the first 30 seconds
 
I do have these, not sure which is the non return though

7997AC85-3F2F-45B3-B0DE-2E962E0563FC.jpeg
 
That from the top of the pic with the red thing in it is non-return valve(afaik not fitted to 2000 modells) and the one from the bottom is air bleed valve(if i see well that it has some white plastic thing in it, it sits in the rear wheel side port of the filter
 
There are some contradictory informations about that red NRV...according to RAVE it should be in the inner port near the air bleed valve but in reality it was found in that port like in your pic and on early modells it is completely missing, that red thing seems to be just a cap to keep dirt out of it, not to be kept...see this

 
sierrafery said:
There are some contradictory informations about that red NRV...according to RAVE it should be in the inner port near the air bleed valve but in reality it was found in that port like in your pic and on early modells it is completely missing, that red thing seems to be just a cap to keep dirt out of it, not to be kept...see this

Click to expand...


I can't even find it in RAVE ! Yeah I looks like some sort of valve if you squeeze it its open. I'll just change the whole housing as per my photo?
 
Seems so ... Dog my cats if i understand what it does... as it's named non-return it should be on the return line as in your photo but as you saw in the video is on the other side but i've seen posts where it was as in your pic as welll... it's a whole mess with it but using logic as it has some ball in it which is pushed by fuel for me it has mopre logic to be near the air bleed valve to isolate the pump's LP side when the pump is not running... as mine doesnt have it and starts/runs OK it might not be so important
 
sierrafery said:
it's a whole mess with it but using logic as it has some ball in it
Click to expand...

I have never seen one with a ball in it, if you look the black bit ( which is what is normally sold individually ) is just a hole, the red bit ( which is a PITA to buy) is a ducks bill valve. Mine was fitted in the filter head when I got it and was placed on the fuel return line from the cooler.

Try it one way , if it works then OK, if not then change it to the other place.

Cheers
 
I've never had one in hand at all i just relied on what Tom said that "looks like some sort of valve if you squeeze it its open" and presumed it has a ball in it :confused: ... this subject is a bit above my skills... by simple logic if it opens under low pressure it works both ways, in the return line will keep the fuel in the rail in the LP line will keep the pump primed
 
Last edited:
neilly said:
I have never seen one with a ball in it, if you look the black bit ( which is what is normally sold individually ) is just a hole, the red bit ( which is a PITA to buy) is a ducks bill valve. Mine was fitted in the filter head when I got it and was placed on the fuel return line from the cooler.

Try it one way , if it works then OK, if not then change it to the other place.

Cheers
Click to expand...

If that's where yours is and it works then that's what i'll do. I've never seen one either, there's no ball just the black valve inside.
 
tom1979 said:
If that's where yours is and it works then that's what i'll do. I've never seen one either, there's no ball just the black valve inside.
Click to expand...

EDIT: mine was on a D2 TD5


Where it goes or not is a discussion that will go on for decades, I left mine where it was prefitted in the new filter head.
If the red "ducks bill" valve is not fitted to the black plastic part then it always struck me as a waste of time , as it would be a piece of black plastic tube that does not appear to do anything. As said by SF , some of the Td5's did not even have that part fitted.

It can easily be changed from one side to the other if no improvement is found .

Cheers
 
sierrafery said:
There are some contradictory informations about that red NRV...according to RAVE it should be in the inner port near the air bleed valve but in reality it was found in that port like in your pic and on early modells it is completely missing, that red thing seems to be just a cap to keep dirt out of it, not to be kept...see this

Click to expand...


In the comments on this video 2 different people say that black non-return valve does nothing without the rubber duck-bill valve, one even says it is not a NRV without the additional valve, which as neilly says, you cannot buy anywhere
 
tom1979 said:
which as neilly says, you cannot buy anywhere
Click to expand...

You can buy it now , as part of a kit from OZ, there is a link in the bay of flea somewhere. Although when I was looking last Summer they could not be found.

I replaced my filter head, as the old one was breaking up when I tried to remove it, on the old filter housing ( D2 TD5) the air bleed valve ( white ) was on rear outside pipe, the red valve was in inside front of filter housing pipe , which comes from the cooler. The new filter housing had both the "extras" in the same positions so was fitted as it was supplied.

It starts and runs OK, but if ever the red valve is really needed on a TD5 is a long running question.

Cheers
 
I'll have a look at mine when it comes off but I know it doesn't have that duckbill thing as I replaced the housing a few years ago, although with a secondhand one. Mines going to take a while to change as the shock mount has been moved forward and so the fuel lines on left side are touching it, the only way to unclip them is to take the housing off. The fact that it's touching could be part of the reason for a failure perhaps
 
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