My service experience on my RR Vogue TD6

I have carried out a full service on my 2003, L322 Vogue TD6 and a couple of other bits.

This is what I used, prices and source:

These are from Island 4x4.

Gearbox Filter for GM box. Includes gasket. £19.99
Fuel Filter. £6.66
Oil Filter. £3.33
Air Filter. £5.83
Pollen Filter. £7.50
EGR Air Filter. £1.24


Transmission Oil from Fleet Factors.

Texaco Texmatic 7045e. 7 litres. £50.78.


Eurocarparts.

75/90 Fully Synthetic Gear Oil for front and rear diff. 3 litres. £24
Shell Helix 10/40. 10 litres. £36

Ebay.

Range Rover Transfer Box Fluid STC4861. (Came direct from LR). 1 litre. £18
Loctite 243 Thread Seal for front diff. 3ml. £3.49
Turbo Cranckcase Breather. (always missed but vital). £4.95


LR Centre

Front Discs. Front and rear pads. £117 with vat and delivery.
Viscous Coupling. £155
Heater Blower Final Resistor. £50


Getting the front bolts off for the caliper carrier was a nightmare. Rust. Get some rust dissolver and spray on all rusty bolts to remove rust. Spray some WD40 after and leave for as long as poss. If still stuck buy a bolt remover set for about £25 to shift them but replace the bolts.

When doing the service there are various sealing washers you will need so order a few of each size.

The reason I changed the Viscous Coupling was that it stayed on one day while I was in traffic, and it wasn't even hot so better change it in case it stays on forever (noisy).

The Heater/Blower resistor is a common failure causing strange things with the heater blower.

The GM and ZF boxes state 'sealed for life'. This is a nonsense statement. My car has only done 37k but the fluid was quite bad and the magnet in the sump had a 1mm layer of black slime on it, no bits. I reckon by changing this every 30k (3-4 years for me) will make the box outlive the car.

The Turbo Breather was rotten. Very easy to change. When I put my foot down (not often as too expensive) loads of dark smoke would come out. This has now virtually gone. Also, by changing this you allow the turbo to breathe which should make it last a lot longer.

Hope this helps.

Michael

If you need any more info or tips on what I did post a message.

Nice informative post

Regarding the crankcase breather filter

Bmw do a "cyclone " style filter that fits in place for the crappy sponge type

Resulting in a filter that you don't have to worry about getting blocked again nor do you have to replace it again

Also, By the way I would change the gearbox filter you bought for a genuine Filtran one from Land Rover as there have been issues in the past with the cheap aftermarket ones the sponge material comes away and gets sucked into the transmission !

Thanks for the info Hippo.

Hippo. Have you a part number for the Cyclone filter?

No problems

See my thread regarding the crankcase breather

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/l322-td6-crankcase-breather-bmw-upgrade-211041.html

Good post,

Change my front disc's and pads the other day, the 2 caliper bolts on both sides were a right pain. Cleaned the threads out with WD and replaced them with a touch of copper grease.

Next project is to change the rear disc's, pads, and handbrake shoes. I did the replacement BMW crankcase filter about 16 months ago, piece of cake to replace.

Oil and filters will be done in June, and may be changing the turbo at the same time as it is passing oil and has a slight rasp on rev up.

acc said:

Good post,

Change my front disc's and pads the other day, the 2 caliper bolts on both sides were a right pain. Cleaned the threads out with WD and replaced them with a touch of copper grease.

Next project is to change the rear disc's, pads, and handbrake shoes. I did the replacement BMW crankcase filter about 16 months ago, piece of cake to replace.

Oil and filters will be done in June, and may be changing the turbo at the same time as it is passing oil and has a slight rasp on rev up.

Click to expand...

Copperslip on the bolt shoulder and loctight on the threads I hope.

tomcat59alan said:

Copperslip on the bolt shoulder and loctight on the threads I hope.

Click to expand...

Sorry Tomcat missed the Loctite in the write up.

Still loving Range Rover ownership then Alan ?

2.0_hippo said:

Still loving Range Rover ownership then Alan ?

Click to expand...

Oh yes, owned them since the 80's with just a 3yr break with a Disco.

Good thread - but why do people still insist on using WD40? It's next to useless for stuck bolts - get some Plusgas - or at the very least if you're having trouble sourcing Plusgas, Toolstation do a half-decent penetrating fluid for just £3 - there are branches all over the place so there's no excuse. Penetrating Oil 400ml | Toolstation

As for the transmission - IMHO none of the transmissions fitted to L322s are really up to the job - they are on their torque limits given the weight of the cars - BMW skimped and specced what would suit their lighter X5 - LR got a rough deal! Agreed changing the fluid regularly may double the life of the box.

Update on the Texaco Texmatic 7045e ATF. I was in a Texaco garage today to wash the car and they sell this at £9 a litre if you get stuck.

Ladies and Gents. An update on this thread.

The oil I used was Shell 10/40, which although it stated Synthetic, is in fact Synthetic/Mineral. I started to got an odd noise from the engine, especially when the sound rebounded from other cars.

I got the oil, Fuchs Fully Synthetic 5/40, filter and job done at National Tyres for £63. You can't buy it that cheap. Noise gone. Result