My First Land Rover - Its got some issues!
- Thread starter Dave_landy
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hmmmm....
Is the prop / VCU setup the same on the V6? If so, based on what has been said about the difference in handling etc, I may just remove mine in Feb (if there hasn't been any snow) and leave it off until next November.
Do you need to have it jacked up to remove it (I have quite a sloping driveway which is a REAL pain when trying to do even the most basic of tasks)?
Andy.
Is the prop / VCU setup the same on the V6? If so, based on what has been said about the difference in handling etc, I may just remove mine in Feb (if there hasn't been any snow) and leave it off until next November.
Do you need to have it jacked up to remove it (I have quite a sloping driveway which is a REAL pain when trying to do even the most basic of tasks)?
Andy.
- Posts
- 83,266
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
v6 has a different Vcu, but otherwise the same.
not got the v6 myself ...but i have read if you take it off you will need to make some kind of marks on it .. so when you put it back on it will be the same way you take it off .. so it will still be balanced ?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
- Posts
- 53,749
Putting marks on to help refit shouldn't really be needed as the props are balanced themselves. However some have had trouble when refitting then. Hence if you mark and refit the same way it came of, then hopefully you shouldn't have anyu problems. I always mark mine when removing. Logical thing to do.
- Posts
- 83,266
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
dont forget the KV6 needs that balance ring on the VCU, Hippoo.
cant be balanced that well.
cant be balanced that well.
nickcc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,634
- Location
- Helston Cornwall
Do you need to have it jacked up to remove it (I have quite a sloping driveway which is a REAL pain when trying to do even the most basic of tasks)?
Depends how small you are, in my case ramps are certainly needed My drive also slopes down towards the house, I found that backing on to the ramps, with the back end towards the house, gave me sufficient room to reach all the drive train bolts, with the ramps at the front I found it difficult to reach the diff flange bolts (only one pair of ramps)
Depends how small you are, in my case ramps are certainly needed
My drive also slopes down towards the house, I found that backing on to the ramps, with the back end towards the house, gave me sufficient room to reach all the drive train bolts, with the ramps at the front I found it difficult to reach the diff flange bolts (only one pair of ramps)
Last edited:
Hippo
Lord Hippo
- Posts
- 53,749
Thanks for the helpful comments - By the way...
How long should it take for a newbie with just basic spanners etc? I'm thinking that if it's only a "quick" job I may just whip it off tomorrow afternoon and then if it looks as if we're going to get some snow - pop it back on ;-)
Andy.
How long should it take for a newbie with just basic spanners etc? I'm thinking that if it's only a "quick" job I may just whip it off tomorrow afternoon and then if it looks as if we're going to get some snow - pop it back on ;-)
Andy.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
- Posts
- 53,749
Easier to do wiv a ratchet and spanners. Theres a fred at the top to help you. Once it's in the air it's just the time to undo the bolts and lower it. 29kg complete. Once mines on the ramps it takes me less than 30 mins to remove. Personally I'd mark it to help refitting.
Dave_landy
New Member
- Posts
- 51
From a complete newbies perspective, I spent about 4 / 5 hours end to end.
This was also the first time I jacked up the car too, so spent quite some time positioning the axle stands etc, and not to mention the 40 minutes it took me to turn the wheel to access the two remaining bolts on the rear end of the prop shaft.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
- Posts
- 53,749
Buy the time I'd got me tools out, ramps out etc. Freelander in the air... an hour had gone. Makes the 30 mins to remove it seem quick. I lift it so I can roll it forward 10 inches which turns the props 90 degrees for easier access to the nuts. Then it's carrying the thing inside to store and packing up. Another hour. First time I did it was probably about 4 hours in total. It's something I hate doing.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
why dont you just jack one side of the car up then prop will turn by hand with still plenty of room to get under to undo bolt
Hippo
Lord Hippo
- Posts
- 53,749
Good idea but often I lift the whole lot on ramps as I try to plan doing several jobs at the same time. Like ird/diff oils or whatevers broke'd this week.
Dave_landy
New Member
- Posts
- 51
Morning Guys,
Since removing the prop shaft and VCU etc, I am hearing a 'knock' coming from the rear of the vehicle. This only happens when moving, and when lifting off the accelerator therefore allowing engine breaking to slow the car.
I have read other posts suggesting knocking sounds from the rear of the vehicle are likely to be related to the rear diff mount or a broken subframe mount. However, all of the symptoms for these issues revolve around noises occurring when driving over rough ground, which I don't experience. The only time I get the knock is when lifting off the accelerator, and sometimes (not as frequent) when disengaging the clutch while moving.
Could these still be applicable given the different circumstances when I hear the noise?
Since removing the prop shaft and VCU etc, I am hearing a 'knock' coming from the rear of the vehicle. This only happens when moving, and when lifting off the accelerator therefore allowing engine breaking to slow the car.
I have read other posts suggesting knocking sounds from the rear of the vehicle are likely to be related to the rear diff mount or a broken subframe mount. However, all of the symptoms for these issues revolve around noises occurring when driving over rough ground, which I don't experience. The only time I get the knock is when lifting off the accelerator, and sometimes (not as frequent) when disengaging the clutch while moving.
Could these still be applicable given the different circumstances when I hear the noise?
nickcc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,634
- Location
- Helston Cornwall
If the mountings are worn or broken you will get the knocking when you put load on or take it off the rear axle (accelerating, braking and over run) and not only on rough ground.
Dave_landy
New Member
- Posts
- 51
Bit of an old thread but I finally got around to replacing the rear diff mounts this weekend (thanks to Hippo for his guide).
However I still seem to have a bad knocking sound from the rear. Any other suggestions as to what i could check? Unfortunately it's not the easiest thing to replicate without driving the vehicle at which point diagnostics are a tad awkward!
I also get occasional juddering from the vehicle when lightly braking at a slow speed (I.e. driving through town) this also causes the knocking to happen quite violently. Separate issues but may shed some light on it?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
However I still seem to have a bad knocking sound from the rear. Any other suggestions as to what i could check? Unfortunately it's not the easiest thing to replicate without driving the vehicle at which point diagnostics are a tad awkward!
I also get occasional juddering from the vehicle when lightly braking at a slow speed (I.e. driving through town) this also causes the knocking to happen quite violently. Separate issues but may shed some light on it?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
- Posts
- 83,266
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
Please remove the tit-torque crap and I will tell ya
Dave_landy
New Member
- Posts
- 51
Done!
Similar threads
Freelander 2 (LR2)
2013 SD4 auto rev drop
Freelander 2 (LR2)
Freelander Trailer lights not working.
