My first big land rover task.. Advice please :-)

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nickp3003

nickp3003

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,399
Location
Bristol
300tdi 1997 disco 1

I've been having trouble with the clutch recently, and have come to the conclusion after bleeding, changing all hydraulics and checking the pedal, that the engine or box has to come out..

I plan on fitting a new clutch, HD reinforced fork ;), release bearing.

so first things first, engine out or gear box out?
Anything else I can change quite easily that is worth changing, say the push rod?
Any recommendations on brands to look out for with the clutch?

And finally I've been looking at engine cranes, would a good quality 1000kg be enough to lift the 300tdi? Or should I look at 2 tonne?

Any advice for the job? The most I've ever done before is changed the master cylinder on the disco, and brakes on a ford focus, so quite nervous about this one!, although I hope by following the Haynes manual I shouldn't have too many problems.

Thanks LZerz, I'm sure I'll have more questions when I bugger it up:eek:
 
I have not long got an engine crane. I went for 2 ton as it has greater lift at full reach. Mine was from Axminster powertools. A little more than the machine mart one. And bigger when folded. But nice bit o kit
 
i have a 1 ton which is adequate, it is a bit short in the lifting arm.so i had to remove the bumper to give me enough reach.but a two ton would be ample.



ron.
 
I didn't take the gearbox out of my 300tdi defender when the fork gave up. Disconnected everything from the engine making sure to label everything up. Took the radiator off then lifted the engine out with a 1 tonne engine lift, changed clutches over and reverse order back in. I find aligning the engine in and out easier by loosening the gearbox mounts but I've seen it done without.
 
I can get a Clarke 1 tonne quite easily, a two tonne is looking a little harder to find at a good price, I plan on taking the two front wheels off and lowering the front by a jack on the diff if more height is needed :)
 
I usually use masking tape and permanent marker for jobs I've not done before. Masking tape the connection at both ends and start serialising from the first connection eg 1A, second connection 2B and so on. This way I know that 21 connects to U and comes before 22V.
 
Many say the engine is an easier remove than the gearboxes, and arguably this is true, but losing the engine involves more fluid losses than the transmissions, and removing the transmissions allows you easy access to more things you may wish to replace/repair, such as transfer case input and output seals, gearbox input seal and bearing, diff lock linkages etc etc

Remove engine for the quick job, remove transmissions for the proper job IMO.
 
What brands of clutch are recommended? I'm staying clear of sh*t part! Looking at 'Borg and beck' or 'valeo'
 
I have a Britpart supplied AP Driveline, AP bought Borg and Beck

If you're going heavy off road look at megasquirt-v8.co.uk paddle clutch kits, not too dear, custom made and it'll be the only clutch you ever buy.

Otherwise, any decent clutch actually will be fine, B&B, valeo etc, £100 in enough for a 3 piece.
 
Have you tried bleeding plenty of times using different techniques..?
I had clutch troubles after my slave cylinder gave up n poured fluid into the housing. After a lot of bleeding its now fine. I know others have had bleeding problems on disco 1's
Plenty of info on here about it..
 
JonnyP said:
Have you tried bleeding plenty of times using different techniques..?
I had clutch troubles after my slave cylinder gave up n poured fluid into the housing. After a lot of bleeding its now fine. I know others have had bleeding problems on disco 1's
Plenty of info on here about it..
Click to expand...

Yeah I've had a local land rover specialist garage bleed it a few times, made no difference, me and my dad have bled it a few times too.

Now thinking the rods gone through the fork, or the release bearing is playing up, the biting point is on the floor, impossible to get into first or reverse with engine running, and a git to get in any other gear,
 
Any specialist tools I should get? I know a clutch alignment tool is a must?

Also any sealant I should use when putting back together?
 
Torque wrench usually comes in handy, threadlock for bits and bobs, can't remember needing anything special for the job I didn't already have. Ratchet spanners were helpful and plenty of penetrating fluid to get all the seized stuff off.
 
That's what I have got to do to mine, I think its the fork that's the problem, I am going the gearbox route as I think the linkage to the transfer box is seized as well. I managed to get a second hand CAM Radstock Engine Hoist and it seems to be a real heavy duty piece of kit.
 
nickp3003 said:
Any specialist tools I should get? I know a clutch alignment tool is a must?

Also any sealant I should use when putting back together?
Click to expand...


I've only done a clutch on a Disco once and this is how I did it:

1. 2 trolley jacks required. 4 axle stands (to give more working room), 2 man job ! Get the vehicle up in the air on the axle stands.

2. First removed both props and exhaust system;

3. Remove centre console from inside the car, plus membrane until you can see the top of the gearbox;

4. Next place trolley jack 1 under the the tranny box/gearbox assy NB Ensure that the ground surface is sufficiently smooth to allow the trolley jack to roll easily;

5. Place trolley jack 2 under the front end of the engine ready to take it's weight. Note. when you remove the gearbox assy the centre of gravity of the engine tips forward. This is why you need trolley jack 2 in place, to account for this;

6. With trolley jack 1 in place taking the weight of the gear/trans box assy, remove the gearbox mountings, the electrical plugs; the clutch slave cylinder; the gear levers.

7. You are ready to separate the bellhousing from the engine. GENTLY lower the gearbox on trolley 1 approx 2 inches or 50mm; take up the movement on Trolley 2;

8. Now you can start to remove all the bellhousing fixings - most are bolts but from memory there are 2 or 3 studs. The top fixings are accessible via the centre console hole.

9. Once all the fixings are removed and with 2 people available, gentle roll back the whole gearbox assy by about 1 foot or 30cms. You will now have access to the clutch cover plate on the back of the engine (plus if you want to, the rear engine seal) and the clutch fork within the bellhousing.

10. When I did mine I replaced the phosphor bronze bush, clutch plate, the cover plate, the clutch release bearing, the slipper pads and plastic clip, the HD clutch fork, the pushrod and plastic clip.

11. Reinstalling is just the reverse of the above!!!!!!


I didn't find it a particularly hard job, just a bit nerve-wracking. If I were doing it again, I would raise the vehicle a bit more than I did, using man-sized axle stands.


Good luck,

Dave
 
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