My 110 rebuild

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I have now refitted the left front guard and have all the lights back working. I am going to wait until I have painted the drivers side guard before painting and refitting wheel arch flares. I will take the wheels into work so they can remove the tyres. I can then paint the rims white. I will replace them at some point with a different style but as for now they will do.
I painted the inside of the guard as well so that when I rebuild the engine, the engine bay will look tidy.
Just a couple pics. It starting to take shape up front now and almost looks like two different Defenders
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This weekend i finished my other front guard.
I have removed roof and rear windows. Water blasted the inside of the tub in prep for when I paint it.
 
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Been a few weeks since a post. In the time since I have completed the body work firewall forward. Fitted new headlight housings as old one rusted around headlight adjusters. I have fitted the wheel arch flares after deciding to paint them black along with grill and headlight surrounds. I picked up a new park light today for the guard.
I have removed the roof and rear upper body.
Seat base came out last weekend so I can paint behind seats and around the tub.
I visited a mate today that operates a couple helicopters and lucky for me he gave me 44 gallon drum of old jet a1 fuel that has passed its use by date. Makes for a cheap de-greaser. Rather handy when the gearbox engine and diffs have been leaking oil. The fuel cuts through it so fast.
The gearbox mechanically is in good order and had received a full rebuild shortly before i purchased the vehicle. I am just replacing all leaking gaskets in place.
Interesting find, i removed the carpet from the seat box to find a plate on the side
with built by Leyland South Africa on it
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Sorry for picture quality its night time here
 
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Been awhile since an update. Since last time I have all the floor back in and painted the areas inside the cab which will be exposed to sight.
I have now started to move onto the rear body section, this has involved lots of sanding and the odd repair. I am really eager to finish off the body work as I want to get onto rebuilding the engine. I am also getting a hard time for not going 4x4 with the guys from work. So here are some photos from the weekends work.
The white on the window seals is just the sticky tape residue i need to clean it off once the paint is hard enough.
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I need to order a full set of lights for the rear and front of the vehicle. Most the of rubber seals have turned solid and the metal contacts are rusty on just about all of them
 
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I Had a busy week on the Landy and were able to spend most the weekend working on it which kept the Mrs well annoyed.
Anyway since last time i have finished painting the tub and side which only leaves the doors and roof.
I bought 3mX1.8m of charcoal carpet to line the cab with. I have applied Dynamat sound deadening under the carpet to try reduce some drive train noise. I stripped down and de-rusted the seat frames and painted them up too. I have refitted the seat backs but I will be pulling the seats apart at a later stage to retrim them.
A lot of the ugly old bits are starting to reduce and I am enjoying the progress. Anyway just some photos from the weekend
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yeah each panel. So i can still remove to get at gearbox etc.
I am trying to build a 110 version of your 90. I like how yours has been with the grey and black
 
TrinbagoMan said:
Whats the approx cost of your rebuild?
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Not sure so far, but paint so far around $1000
probably another $2000 in parts and extras ie; carpet stereo gaskets and seals
Most the money yet to be spent on suspension wheels and tyres
I plan on most the work being done by myself ie paint and mechanical but stuff like exhausts easier to just get done by a shop.
I plan on spending upto $10,000 with the intial vehicle costing $3000. Only because there are next to no good ones to buy here. However it is easy enough to recover the money i spend on it if i was to sell it.
ps $nzd is about double the pound
 
I have had a break from painting the and have made a start on fixing some of the oil leaks and W.O.F (MOT) potential failures.
I noticed when looking under the vehicle that the right side rear brake backing plate had oil stains on it. Yesterday I pulled the wheel and drum off to inspect and found the wheel cylinders and axle seal leaking.
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The hub bearings looked really dry with a rusty brown thin film of oil. Removing the bearings from the hub, the state of them were far from being usable.
So I will order some new wheel bearings and seals for the rear.
Image of bearing shell
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The oil had soaked the drums and shoes so will require new shoes. Lucky I have a mate that has a company skimming brake rotors and drums so he popped around and was able to machine them. I cleaned them up and have painted them.
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This morning I went into work and removed the tyres from the rims. I cleaned them up and give them a paint. I only intend running these wheels until i finished doing all the major work then will look at getting some bigger rims and tyres. I noticed they had inner tubes in them which I have not had the pleasure of dealing with in my automotive career. The tyres that are on there currently are steel belted radials. Can they run without inner tubes?
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After being concerned over seeing some drips of water on the axle shaft, I felt compelled to drain the diff and see what state the oil was in. Well I didn't have to worry about getting my hand covered in oil as when i removed the drain bung about 1lt of water came out first. Which raised some concern to me. I have removed the diff plate and will inspect the rear diff for signs of wear on the gears.
The diff is leaking oil out the front pinion seal and require replacement.
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I think a lot of the "old boys" on the farm have a deep rooted suspicion of tubeless tyres, and put in a set of tubes whenever they get a "new" truck. I don't imagine there is a wheel and tyre combination made in the last 30 years that is not perfectly fine to run in a tubeless configuration.
 
Alright this weekend I was able to get my rear wheel bearings replaced and new shoes and cylinders fitted. I flushed the diff housing out.
Next weekend I need to get a new diff pinion seal to fix the leak.
I gave it all a spray with black and reassembled waiting to fit the wheels.
I have removed the rear drive shaft to clean it up and paint. Good weekend of work though.
 
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Back to panel work now.
I borrowed a mig welder from work this weekend and made a start on repairing the rust in the door frames.
I am using the gas less wire on the mig and for my first time welding with a mig iI enjoyed it. My past experience has only been with gas and even then it it was limited to repairing cracks in exhausts.
So I ground out all the rust patches, the worst being the rear door which was rusted out almost completely at the base.
One lesson I learnt was next time to wear a long shirt as my arms were covered in red burn marks:doh:
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