MOT requirements - lights??

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The spot lights are wired up properly. Just the reverse light I'm having problems with. Still not located that magic brown and green wire in the cab...
 
They did all sorts of things back in the day, spots linked to main beam, but also fogs linked to dip. Quite common to find fogs wired to dip as a factory set up on some 60's cars (and they had a lot of fog!)
Quick way to do the warnign light is to use the illuminated switches, saves cutting another hole too.
 
Took my RRC in for its MoT today. My friendly mechanic said that reverse lights aren't required at this age, not tested! I might just put it back together and forget about it until the next virus lockdown...
 
Good news. So did you get a pass? You got your fog light working, I take it.,..and I'm sure it was tested if it was fitted. Did the tester comment on what they would have said if the light hadn't been present?

Related, and while hoping not to hijack your thread, I'm puzzled by a wire on my loom. I have a pair of wires that go down to the fuel tank; a green/black wire for the fuel level sender, as expected, but also a white/green wire. The Lucas wiring colour chart listed this as "Fuel pump no. 2 or left-hand to changeover switch". Would this apply only to oil-burners, as don't petrol engines have mechanical pumps?

And any idea where the other end of this wire would be? I don't recall seeing such a wire anywhere else...
 
It makes more sense to be the changeover switch as these are only on petrol. It transfers the gauge reading to the tank that's being used if there is a twin tank set up. These are only on petrol as the changeover is only 3 port not 6 as it would have to be for a diesel. Mine was converted from petrol to diesel at some stage and the changeover switch taken out but it does have a 2nd pump - electric - to transfer fuel from one tank to the other. I've always assumed it was fitted by a previous owner but its on a bracket welded to the chassis, I wonder if that was already there?
 
It makes more sense to be the changeover switch as these are only on petrol. It transfers the gauge reading to the tank that's being used if there is a twin tank set up. These are only on petrol as the changeover is only 3 port not 6 as it would have to be for a diesel. Mine was converted from petrol to diesel at some stage and the changeover switch taken out but it does have a 2nd pump - electric - to transfer fuel from one tank to the other. I've always assumed it was fitted by a previous owner but its on a bracket welded to the chassis, I wonder if that was already there?
I have seen ex RAF SWB diesel Land Rovers with twin tanks and fuel change over taps.
 
Interesting. I'm only single tank, so I've no idea how a twin tank system would be connected up, but I suppose it makes sense to include any additional wiring in the loom, just in case. Any idea where the other end of the wire would come out?
 
The 109 2.6 has twin pumps, that's what the wires are for.

I haven't taken the Series III in yet, just my RRC but that did pass, flying colours. So got some good advice on emmision testing of that age of vehicle. The fog light is required on mine...
 
I've come across a couple of twin-tank conversions, including an overland camper where there were two additional tanks along each side as well and the original rear tank. The simplest way to do it is to have the engine always drawing fuel from the main tank. When it gets empty, an electric pump refills the main tank from the auxiliary. The original fuel system then stays intact.
 
That's how mine has been set up. Its a diesel so the feed and return run to the offside tank, and there is a transfer pump that pumps across from the near side to the offside. There's a switch that runs the transfer pump and another that swaps the gauge reading over. It is probably not orginal as it started life as a petrol for a start, but it looks to have been done a long time ago.
 
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