MOT Failure Landy 90

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Matt11

Member
Posts
38
Location
West Yorkshire
So i took my 90 in for its MOT today and it spectacularly failed. Here is the list:
  1. Exhaust emits an excess level blah blah blah. Averaged 4.31 with max allowable of 3:eek:
  2. Brake pipe excessively corroded, 3 separate places towards the front calipers
  3. Suspension component mounting area is excessively corroded, nearside rear
  4. Axle king pin has excessive play, both sides
  5. Rear disk break contaminated with oil, both sides
So my plan is:
  1. Put some injector cleaner, decent diesel (shell V-Power etc) and new filter in and take it for a good blow out. I think this is mainly because i do alot of short journeys in the thing and never a good run. Plenty of black smoke when the foot is flat to the floor!
  2. Have the garage replace the pipes, i cant do it myself.
  3. Have the garage patch and weld it as i cant weld
  4. Replace both swivel balls, bearings, seals and swivel pin. Getting a bearmach swivel kit and fitting myself. How difficult is this?
  5. The tester said it was a "seal rear half shaft" and is quoting 15.98 each. Any ideas what the part number is for this? How difficult is this to do as i'd like to do this myself.

To do the lot, they quoted £1056 all in but 400 was for the swivel kit fitting and the rear seal so want to tackle these myself.

Appreciate any help and guidance on the above or suggestions if my plan is way off the mark.
 
Injector cleaner might clear it up a bit, but (depending on the model) you might need to be thinking about replacing the injectors themselves. There's a seal on the inside of the stub axe that keeps the axle oil out of the wheel bearings. I assume this is what they're talking about. But if it is getting on the brake discs it might be prudent to replace the hub seals as well. You just unbolt the stub axle from the axle casing and the seal lives inside the stub axle. Mine were FTC5268 as I recall. Making metal brake pipes isn't that scary, and a flaring tool is a good investment. There are a lot of bits and pieces in the front swivels and their respective bearings, but take it methodically and it's well within the scope of the amateur. Here's my efforts from a few months ago: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/axle-refurbishments.272149/
 
2. Cover the pipes in grease, is what the mot place told me to do about corroded pipes
3. You cant weld. A landy is what i used to learn how to weld. Maybe you can do the same.
4. For someone inexperienced, it can be very difficult. Also, if, like in my case, all nuts and bolts were tightened up to 600nm and you strip the head, you need to send it to a specialist.
5. Denno about the seal, but you need to take everything apart down to stub axle. This involves draining oil, removing caliper, removing flange, removing half shaft, removing nuts securing the hub, removing the hub, finally removing the stub axle, then behind it is the oil seal. You will need: grease, new flange seal, new oil seal, (obviously), Probably some new oil for the diff, and also probably something that i cant remember.
 
The swivels are a reasonably simple job but can't get tricky if things are seized. If you're not up for changing the brake pipes prob don't try the swivels although there's no reason why you can't do both if u get a workshop manual and take your time.

That is a **** ton of money. Maybe take this opportunity to 'get to know' your Landy
 
Thanks for the responses and the link to your "how to". It's not that I don't want to do the brake lines it's just that I need this thing sorted asap as I use it for my daily, I don't have the tools to do it and the price the garage gave me for doing this was alright so I'm just going to leave it to them.
I plan on starting to weld but again, don't have the kit or the time right now.
I'm going to put a shopping list together, I'm getting the swivel kit for both sides, will I need anything else? I assume the kit has everything in it. I'd also like to change all the nuts/bolts etc while I'm at it so any idea how many and what type?
I'll have a look through the manual and the parts book. Pretty sure the front axle is original but the back has been switched as it has disks and not the original drums.
 
Brake pipes: You can buy premade replacements, but it's probably more cost-effective to buy the flaring tool, fittings and copper pipe and make your own. I did this for the front-to-rear pipe and it was simple enough. It's simply a case of carefully bending the new pipe to match the old one, and flaring the ends to match the fittings.
 
It's worth checking what they include in the swivel kit. If the chrome surface of the swivel ball has deteriorated you'll want new ones of them, and the big seal that goes in the outer part of the swivel to keep the grease in and the dirt out. When people talk about doing the swivels, it's often a case of replacing the bearings top and bottom. Newer ones have a tapered roller bearing top and bottom, to provide a kind of 'king pin' and older ones have a tapered roller bearing at the bottom and a so called Railko bush at the top. So check what yours has got and order accordingly. Some spare shims so you can adjust the play on the swivel bearings is helpful. Gaskets: well, you can make your own out of gasket paper, but I bought some as they're only a few pennies. When I was at it I replaced the bearings in the hubs and gave the hubs new seals as well. I also replaced the oil seal in the swivel balls that stops the oil in the axle getting into the grease in the hub. I also put new bolts in where possible - if you've got the parts list then just order by part number. At lease with new ones you have heads that haven't been butchered and they haven't been stretched.
 
i said please ...... what you and your mot tester suggest is dangerous - dont **** with brakes - crappy bodging boils my **** - crappy bodging critical componants in a dangerous way - even more so.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/ukn...-children-died-in-Land-Rover-river-crash.html

one possible outcome of ****ing with your brakes.....as flying pete says - it really isnt hard or expensive to make your own brake pipes - you can get a tool set that will do the flares for about 20 quid - done full set on my 90 with one. top tip, use cunifer/cupronickle lines not copper.

and for the record - yes - yes i have.
 
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There's no chance I'll be bodging my brakes, hence the reason for getting the garage to do it. When I have more time I'll get the stuff and update them all, just need to get through the MOT asap.
The kit I'm getting is from famous four, and it includes everything I think, gaskets, shims, bearings, swivel pin, seals and swivel ball, all by bearmach. Thought I might as well change the lot while I'm at it. 120quid a side I think they are which I didn't think was bad.
 
Swivel balls are not difficult if you work methodically.

Have you got a decent tool kit ? You will need a hub nut socket. You wont find that in many standard sets. You need bihex sockets for the calipers and the ball to axle joint.

Suggest downloading the workshop manual from retro anaconda or even a read of the haynes for doing the swivels. - dunno if buster did a guide.

Get a fishing scale for doin the preload.

If its your first time and they look crusty. Gve your self a weekend to do the job. Once they are apart the reassembly is easy.
 
ProcrastinatorFraser said:
Please stop being so fkin hostile, i just repeated what THE MOT GUY TOLD ME TO DO. Ever done a landy restoration before? doesn't seem like it, based on your lack of patience.
Click to expand...

Mot man likely meant cover the new ones with grease even if the pipes are copper alloy the fittings are steel and will rot again fast enough.
 
I was told on a previous mot to do that to good pipes that were starting to corode, however if its already failed then putting grease on isn't going to revert the corrosion.

We're not talking big money so if there's ever any doubt, get them replaced.

Remember just one crack or corroded hole in a pipe will stop the entire system working. Not what you or other road users want
 
With the callipers a 1/2" imperial socket is often a tighter fit than a metric one, which is better as you're less likely to damage the splines. The bolts from swivel ball to axle don't have enough clearance to get a socket in usually, so a ring spanner is most useful. Once I loosened mine I spun them out with a ratchet ring spanner, otherwise you might be there for some time, as they are usually plastered in Loc-tite and can't be undone with fingers.
 
Thanks for all the comments etc but here's a bit of an update and things get WORSE!!
Thought I'd take it out for a spin as my MOT runs out tomorrow. After 10 minutes on some country lanes, all of a sudden, BANG! I look in my rear view and there's my belt tensioner and belt skipping down the road behind me:eek:. Put in neutral and pull in to someone's drive to collect my parts. The bolt through the tensioner has stripped the threads and been flung out.
No idea what to do so got the recovery out to deliver me and the landy to the garage that's doing the work for me this week.
How the feck do they fix that? If they re-thread it, surely that'll mean it needs a bigger bolt and that won't fit through the tensioner.:(
They don't open till Monday so will call them 1st thing to see if they can have a look but properly picked off right now!
 
Matt11 said:
And that'll sort it? Just looked in to those, seems easy and cheap enough. Thanks, I was thinking it was going to be an expensive fix.
Click to expand...

Well there ARE more expensive fixes - new engine etc.
but didn't think that was a good idea ... :)
 
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