Disco 2 MOT fail, front body mount

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Support the body, cut the whole lot out. ,weld in a new body mount ,refit body mount rubber.
Depending on how far you have to cut to get to solid metal for welding in the new mount you may have to remove the body from the chassis to be able to get into it properly.
If you do have to remove the body which I suspect you will have to you may as well redo all the body mounts and probably other areas .
Looking at the pics it's not good and looks extremely corroded.


Good luck
 
Rock Basher said:
Support the body, cut the whole lot out. ,weld in a new body mount ,refit body mount rubber.
Depending on how far you have to cut to get to solid metal for welding in the new mount you may have to remove the body from the chassis to be able to get into it properly.
If you do have to remove the body which I suspect you will have to you may as well redo all the body mounts and probably other areas .
Looking at the pics it's not good and looks extremely corroded.


Good luck
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
PopPops said:
Although the surrounding metal is pretty sound, access is a real problem, I can't get my angle grinder anywhere near it. I can get the MIG torch into the area, but I would need to clean and prepare the area first. I played around a little with a Dremel and various grinding attachments, but it is very slow progress.
Click to expand...

You might want to consider using a decent multitool with a carbide blade
 
PopPops said:
^^ thank you +^^

A good starting point. If only that plate at the bottom of the wheel arch wasn’t there, this would be fairy easy. I did wonder about cutting it out and welding it back in later, but that’s another set of problems…
Click to expand...
No harm in doing that, if it speeds the job up and makes it easier, why not?
Once off you could make any examination and repairs to the part removed easier and thus weld back on a part that was better than before, as well as being able to carry out the rest of the repair better.
 
Looking at the original pic, it looks to me as if it has already been patched and said patch is just fixed in a few places with no more than tack welds, Or do I need to go to spec savers (again :))

If that is the case it would be fairly easy to remove it. Then Patch again. It would then buy you enough time.
If you do patch it then treat it as best you can to buy as much time as poss.
At the end of the day it will need some extensive work to get rid of all the rot, but sometimes needs must.

J
 
Rock Basher said:
Well that's a mess .
Anyone who has half a clue about welding will tell you that body is end of life.
Also the state that's in I would put a full tube of smarties on it the rest of the vehicle body is absolutely FUBAR...
Click to expand...
What an absolute load of baloney, it requires a simple localised repair for years more life.
 
Interceptorxj said:
What an absolute load of baloney, it requires a simple localised repair for years more life.
Click to expand...
That's rubbish and you would know that if you had any clue.
It's seriously corroded and once if possible the rust is cut out it will be an extensive repair.
It's a structural area and will definitely need to be correctly repaired otherwise body twisting under load will cause unknown stress on other areas that will allow corrosion to set in to those areas such as other body mounts opposite the corroded side.
 
Rock Basher said:
That's rubbish and you would know that if you had any clue.
It's seriously corroded and once if possible the rust is cut out it will be an extensive repair.
It's a structural area and will definitely need to be correctly repaired otherwise body twisting under load will cause unknown stress on other areas that will allow corrosion to set in to those areas such as other body mounts opposite the corroded side.
Click to expand...
Well, I hadn’t expected to start a war(!), but when I can get further with it, either handing to a professional or trusting my own welding, I’ll let you all know.
 
Rock Basher said:
That's rubbish and you would know that if you had any clue.
It's seriously corroded and once if possible the rust is cut out it will be an extensive repair.
It's a structural area and will definitely need to be correctly repaired otherwise body twisting under load will cause unknown stress on other areas that will allow corrosion to set in to those areas such as other body mounts opposite the corroded side.
Click to expand...
Well yes of course. Any welding is a major change from the certificate of conformity and should be banned unless you can xray each and every weld while using certified steel for QA purposes 🤔🙄
 
meego said:
I’m getting one from Santa. 😁😁
Click to expand...
The angled one has quite a kick if using in a hole only slightly bigger than the cardbife bit.
I wish I had bought the straight version as I think that would be more useful for tight spaces.
 
meego said:
I’m wanting it more for sanding with the 2” disc holder thing.
Click to expand...
In that case it will be perfect.
I have been using mine with some 25mm surface finishing discs, and it did a very nice job, very controllable.

Battery life is excellent as well, so don't get the 4/6amp if you don't need them, the 2ah does the job, downside of the 2ah is you cannot stand it upright.
 
lynall said:
In that case it will be perfect.
I have been using mine with some 25mm surface finishing discs, and it did a very nice job, very controllable.

Battery life is excellent as well, so don't get the 4/6amp if you don't need them, the 2ah does the job, downside of the 2ah is you cannot stand it upright.
Click to expand...
I’m watching a couple of 4ah on eBay. I already have one for my small impact wrench though. I was thinking the 2 would help get into tighter spaces if needed as well !!
 
meego said:
I’m watching a couple of 4ah on eBay. I already have one for my small impact wrench though. I was thinking the 2 would help get into tighter spaces if needed as well !!
Click to expand...
Will at least one of you beggars at least put a pic or two up so the ignorami among us have a clue? 🤣 🤣
 
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