MOT Advisories - DIY advice please!

Hi Folks

So, my 110 failed it's recent MOT. The main failure has been put right but there are a number of advisories as well which I'm going to try to put right myself.

I'm not very experienced on the mechanical front but happy to take my time to do the job methodically.

It'd be great to get an opinion on how hard the jobs below are, whether I need any special tools for the job (I have a decent socket set but that's it) and the parts needed for the job.

Also, what order would you tackle these in and is there anything else it makes sense to do at the same time?

- "Replace N/S swivel ball"
I've seen Busters guide but not sure specifically which parts I need

- "Replace both track rod ball joints"
Rtc5869 Right Hand Thread Track Rod End (RTC5869) To Buy Online At Brookwells Land Rover Parts
Rtc5870 Left Hand Thread Track Rod End (RTC5870) To Buy Online At Brookwells Land Rover Parts

- "Replace both drag link ball joints"
a bit confused, is this the same as a drop arm ball joint? can't see drag link ball joint on brookwells. Is the actual ball joint the same as the one used for the track rod end??

- Replace N/S/R hub seal
Any guidance on which seal this would be, or is it worth overhauling the hub and bearing assembly whilst there?

The garage quoted these as individual jobs, all in costing £1180 to put right...

Strikes me that it's on the steep side and going to be mostly labour costs. Even if it takes me two full days to complete, it's still a significant amount of money in the bank?

thanks in advance - I'm a bit bamboozled!

ball joint are easy just undo clamp and hit tube all over area clamping thread of joint all around tube with 2 big proper hammers or 1 on a vice they will then unscrew one lh the other rh count turns or measure for correct refitting,drop arm is trickier but can be done on vehicle using bottle jack and drift to press bottom of joint up to release circlip ,you would then need to make a tool out of a 12mm bolt long enough to go right through joint and take a washer a top ground to fit seat and washer at bottom with nut to wind seat out there isnt much to grab of seat to start with new seat will tap back up with suitable socket,if hub seal is leaking oil check other seals in stub axle or hub as oil shouldnt reach brgs

Thanks - just so I'm clear, is the drop arm the same as the drag link? It's the 'drag arm ball joints' that need replacing.

This any guid tae ye.....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drag-link-ball-joint-renewal-82152.html

or this....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drop-arm-ball-joint-renewal-63811.html

or this...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/track-rod-ends-renewal-99508.html

yarp - that'll do it!

I had read them already (brilliant help) just confused about specific parts. All falling into place now.

The one that makes me nervous is the swivel ball - time, cost and my ability... read a few posts saying that some one shot grease would be ok in the short term to delay the work. Any views?

thats easier than drop arm ball joint just takes longer but grease shoulddelay necessity of changing soon

Just finished the swivel ball on mine

A pretty significant job for me to tackle - following Busters' guide and asking a couple of dumb questions of james I had no real problems (other than shearing a bolt in the housing!)

Paddocks to swivel ball kits but at the price point I was sceptical of the quality so used the Parts Guide (sticky at top) to identify the bits and ordered what I needed from LRDirect.

Gaskets and seals are pretty cheap. If you need to replace the ball itself then you will probably replace the bearings at the same time - that adds about £45 for the ball and £35 for a pair of bearings.

If you're just looking at replacing the seal around the ball, then you're looking at about £12 plus another £5 or so in gaskets and spare bolts in case any are too shot to go back.

In summry, if I could do it, you'll find it a breeze!