brianp38dse
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Quotes like that are gonna make me try it and destroy the engine![]()
Whats the worst that can happen
Quotes like that are gonna make me try it and destroy the engine![]()
ive had a good read of rave and a few posts detailing it, as always with these beasts it looks incredibly easy on paper. id be more inclined to have a go if i had indoor space to try it.Whats the worst that can happenhave a look for post by the late Wammers on timing chain replacement, it will give you a good incite to whats evolved
All my work is done outside on the drive unless the wife goes out for the day![]()
Yup,I've done it just follow Rave I took the rad ,cowl and viscus fan off and the inlet manifold for access to the injector pipes and timing the pump. Loads of room when the bits are off.some special tools needed, guess I should have done a"how to".
Edited for accuracy.
No way would my "windy gun" get the crank bolt to the correct torque.Never done that job butvwhen I priced up the price of chains, sprockets and tensioner a few years ago the parts alone from Island-4x4 came to £350. Probably another hundred or so by now with prices as they are.
@tomcat59alan might have done but without RAVE I'd think fan out, belts off, pulleys off, alternator and power steering pump off. Guess removing the rads at the front isn't necessary but would massively improve access. Sump will have to be dropped down. Wammers said you didn't have to take the head off and you could get the front cover out by dropping it down a bit. Then it is just the sprockets, chains etc. That crank bolt is 'kin tight but with a windy-gun you'd be OK. Book time probably 2 hours but reckon you'd do it in 4 hours for certain? So depending what parts and what quality they are I'd think you're looking at a minimum of £600 and more likely £800? @brianp38dse might have done it, or done it on a bimmer.
I'd forgotten about moving the FIP. to retime that. That means injection pipes off and that means inlet manifold off. Might as well do the glows if they're old. That's another hour of messing. Best revise my quote to £700 - £1000 depending on the parts used and hourly rate.
They just can't be rrrsed,pity your not closer, have another read of Rave till you fully understand what involved and what special tools requiredIt’s had full set of new glow plugs when I had the new engine put in originally,
On another note I’ve now tried to call every mechanic suggested on this thread so far to no avail. Ither said they don’t have the tools or they don’t touch anything that old.
How close is closerThey just can't be rrrsed,pity your not closer, have another read of Rave till you fully understand what involved and what special tools required![]()
Sorry you’ve not got sorted it’s the sad reality with older cars. This may be the job that is not only worth doing yourself but will have to be done yourself. I agree you should read it through and work out exactly what you need because you’ll certainly get any hel you need here. Good luck.It’s had full set of new glow plugs when I had the new engine put in originally,
On another note I’ve now tried to call every mechanic suggested on this thread so far to no avail. Ither said they don’t have the tools or they don’t touch anything that old.
Once you start stripping it down it's not that bad of a job,as long as you can do without the car for a while, be methodical and all should be fine, as @Tricky of York posted plenty of help on here. I'm the other side of Chester so can't help you.How close is closerI’m losing hope at this point.
I wouldn’t even want to attempt it myself to be honest by the time I buy the tools I need it’s gonna be easier to just get it done by someone with them already.
The only thing to note is that the crankshaft bolt must be tightened to specified torque which is effing tight because it clamps the oil pump rotor,I know a guy who bought a 38 that had the chains replaced and the oil light came on when he was driving it home the bolt wasn't tight,he carried on driving and seized it.What a. Knob!!Once you start stripping it down it's not that bad of a job,as long as you can do without the car for a while, be methodical and all should be fine, as @Tricky of York posted plenty of help on here. I'm the other side of Chester so can't help you.
Oh really? Unlike Kev to turn down work. I am sure he has his reasons, but most unusual.Well just for an update, apart from moorside 4x4 who havnt got back to me, none of them are prepared to even look at it.
The only thing to note is that the crankshaft bolt must be tightened to specified torque which is effing tight because it clamps the oil pump rotor,I know a guy who bought a 38 that had the chains replaced and the oil light came on when he was driving it home the bolt wasn't tight,he carried on driving and seized it.What a. Knob!!
Wonder the wheel studs don't shearIf and when i need to do mine i will get my son to use one of the torque wrenches he uses on the race care wheel nuts its about 5 foot long and does 400ftp![]()
Wonder the wheel studs don't shear![]()
Wish they'd fitted them to the BMW.![]()
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