Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Yep, the oil collar stopped me in my tracks on the LT77 but was lucky to find my faulty bearing was at the front end!
LT230 rebuild
- Thread starter Bennehboy
- Start date
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jamesmartin
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center diff sun gear thrust washers are selectable as you set both gears
Bennehboy
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The rebuild kit from ashcrofts just came with 1 pair, again they look nylon?
jamesmartin
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never bought a kit made up by ashcrofts ,but what i said is true , the bronze thrust washers come in one size
Bennehboy
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Yeah I'm not doubting you are saying, just wondering why they bother to include a set if they are selectable.
jamesmartin
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maybe they dont think you need to set diff up properly
Bennehboy
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Bennehboy
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Bearing splitter arrived...
Decided to crack on with the R380 tear down, the first LT230 is shagged, so am finding another with CDL to refurb.
Having the right tools makes life so much easier:
And it's off...
Decided to crack on with the R380 tear down, the first LT230 is shagged, so am finding another with CDL to refurb.
Having the right tools makes life so much easier:
And it's off...
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Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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easy 
Bennehboy
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Now that the oil seal collar is off, the reverse/5th gear selector spool retainer can be removed to allow the extension case to be lifted off:
The extension case then just pulls clear:
As you can see there's a bit of damage in there, particularly to the plastic bit that sits behind the mainshaft rear bearinf, and to the casing around the fifth lay gear. Biggest surprise for me was that they layshaft and mainshaft support bearings hadn't let go.
Closer inspection of the fifth lay gear shows a tooth chipped:
Probably due to this:
Those are the remains of a needle roller (dunno which one yet), the fifth gear chipping can be seen sat on the centre plate stamping. The reverse idler is a bit notchy too.
Here's the plastic bit from behind the mainshaft support bearing, quite knarly:
And the filter seems to have collected some bits!
The extension case then just pulls clear:
As you can see there's a bit of damage in there, particularly to the plastic bit that sits behind the mainshaft rear bearinf, and to the casing around the fifth lay gear. Biggest surprise for me was that they layshaft and mainshaft support bearings hadn't let go.
Closer inspection of the fifth lay gear shows a tooth chipped:
Probably due to this:
Those are the remains of a needle roller (dunno which one yet), the fifth gear chipping can be seen sat on the centre plate stamping. The reverse idler is a bit notchy too.
Here's the plastic bit from behind the mainshaft support bearing, quite knarly:
And the filter seems to have collected some bits!
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Bennehboy
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Managed to snag another tbox with CDL from a V8 for very little money - should arrive later this week/early next so that will now be the rebuild box so I can crack on without having to do the one currently in the vehicle.
Starting to have a bit of a collection :crazy:
Starting to have a bit of a collection :crazy:
Bennehboy
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Had a few mins spare so decided to try strip the knackered gearbox down a bit further - this one's the practice box really because it's well and truly naffed...
So, using a 2 legged puller attached to my slide hammer I got the layshaft support bearing track off, and used the bearing splitter to pull the mainshaft support bearing track off:
Engaged fifth gear and turned the box on it's side to attempt to get the intermediate shaft end bolt off, and this lot fell out:
Needle rollers, gear chips, and taper bearing rollers.
Tried my best to get the stake nut off the layshaft, used a punch to get the stakes out, but could not get the nut to budge, my 3/4 32mm socket doesn't sit quite deep enough to get a good purchase. Going to buy a deep 32mm socket and see about buying/borrowing an impact driver - it'll come in handy when the chassis swap gets done...
So, using a 2 legged puller attached to my slide hammer I got the layshaft support bearing track off, and used the bearing splitter to pull the mainshaft support bearing track off:
Engaged fifth gear and turned the box on it's side to attempt to get the intermediate shaft end bolt off, and this lot fell out:
Needle rollers, gear chips, and taper bearing rollers.
Tried my best to get the stake nut off the layshaft, used a punch to get the stakes out, but could not get the nut to budge, my 3/4 32mm socket doesn't sit quite deep enough to get a good purchase. Going to buy a deep 32mm socket and see about buying/borrowing an impact driver - it'll come in handy when the chassis swap gets done...
jamesmartin
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best way of removing l/s shaft rear bearing is by undoing the nut it pushes it off,and you dont need to unstake nut ,undoing it does that
Bennehboy
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OK Ta, will do it that way for the 'proper' one - wasn't too worried about using the puller because I've got all new bearings to go on and this one's just to figure it all out.
Any tips for getting that nut off though?
jamesmartin
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1/2 drive air or battery gun
Bennehboy
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OK, thought so, ta.
Bennehboy
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Did some more work on the knackered gearbox.
Bought a 32mm deep socket and a cheap windy gun - windy gun going back because it's total cack.
Fortunately the deep socket allowed me to crack off the stake nut on the layshaft using a breaker bar, I could then lift off the damaged 5th lay gear:
Then the 5th main gear, baulk ring, and selector:
Exposing the circlip holding the 5th/reverse syncromesh hub in place - whipped that off with some largeish circlip pliers, and took the hub, baulk ring, and reverse gear off:
The remains of a needle bearing cage were underneath the reverse gear, so easy to guess where all the needle bearings came from - no sign of the bush or selectable spacer that's supposed to be there, presumably both destroyed when the bearing ate itself:
Pulled the reverse lay gear, forgot to take a photo, then removed the centre plate detent plug, spring and ball:
Lifted off the centre plate:
Didn't expect the bearing tracks to drop out of the centre plate so easily:
Took the bell off:
Slid out the layshaft & mainshaft, exposing the destroyed front taper bearing for the layshaft:
A view into the case:
Some damage to the pinion:
And the layshaft:
All the intenals next to the actual box I'll be rebuilding:
Bought a 32mm deep socket and a cheap windy gun - windy gun going back because it's total cack.
Fortunately the deep socket allowed me to crack off the stake nut on the layshaft using a breaker bar, I could then lift off the damaged 5th lay gear:
Then the 5th main gear, baulk ring, and selector:
Exposing the circlip holding the 5th/reverse syncromesh hub in place - whipped that off with some largeish circlip pliers, and took the hub, baulk ring, and reverse gear off:
The remains of a needle bearing cage were underneath the reverse gear, so easy to guess where all the needle bearings came from - no sign of the bush or selectable spacer that's supposed to be there, presumably both destroyed when the bearing ate itself:
Pulled the reverse lay gear, forgot to take a photo, then removed the centre plate detent plug, spring and ball:
Lifted off the centre plate:
Didn't expect the bearing tracks to drop out of the centre plate so easily:
Took the bell off:
Slid out the layshaft & mainshaft, exposing the destroyed front taper bearing for the layshaft:
A view into the case:
Some damage to the pinion:
And the layshaft:
All the intenals next to the actual box I'll be rebuilding:
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jamesmartin
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bearing races and shims are a loose fit, they are best loctited into place it stops races spinning in plate eventually wearing plate and shafts to move on power and over run changes
Bennehboy
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Good tip thanks.
Also, realised that the bush and selective shim are on the shaft still, doh - should they just slide off or do they press off with the 1st gear and support bearing?
Think some of the needle roller is jammed in the gap.
Also, realised that the bush and selective shim are on the shaft still, doh - should they just slide off or do they press off with the 1st gear and support bearing?
Think some of the needle roller is jammed in the gap.
jamesmartin
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outer race and shim should fall off, inner rollers need pulling off as gears are held in place by front and rear bearing fit ,unless you see obvious damage outer baulk rings ftc3584 and ftc5018( oe or genuine only )are the only ones that need replacing ,and watch selector hubs dont come apart until marked, as are best fitted together as are and not moved round a few splines
