Lt230 identification

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Chambo90

Chambo90

Member
Posts
24
Location
Watford
Fellas

Can anyone tell me how I can identify my lt230. The serial number appears to have been ground off !!!? Reasons unknown ? Gotta be dodgy !
It does have the 1.410 sticker but from what I can make out by looking around there are many different types.
I need to change my tc. And for a quote on Ashcrofts site they require the serial number . Will deffo go for updated x pin and crossed drilled input

Thanks
 
Chambo90 said:
Fellas

Can anyone tell me how I can identify my lt230. The serial number appears to have been ground off !!!? Reasons unknown ? Gotta be dodgy !
It does have the 1.410 sticker but from what I can make out by looking around there are many different types.
I need to change my tc. And for a quote on Ashcrofts site they require the serial number . Will deffo go for updated x pin and crossed drilled input

Thanks
Click to expand...
You might want to talk to them first to see if they'll accept it with a ground of serial number....
 
Tbh a cheap ebay second hand one would be my favoured way to go.
Unlike the r380 and the lt77 the lt230 is one tough cooky and the 1.4 version is the least desirable as everyone wants the 1.2 disco version, my last 1.4 cost me 50 quid.

Ref the serial number I think you will find gearbox numbers arent recorded anywhere unlike engine/vin numbers, especially on old kit.
 
Thanks for the replies chaps.
Found one on eBay for £125 with the 1.2 .. I just worry that I could be throwing money away buying something I know nothing about.... what do I look for or check, on something that someone has sitting in the shed for example

The ground off number did concern me a bit .. why do it to start with ?


Cheers
 
Visually theres not much you can check, is it dry and looks tidy? spin the flanges all rotate smooth and the chances are its good.
If its freshly steam cleaned or feels rough walk away.
If you post in the adverts section a local member may have a tfer box for sale that way you have abetter chance of buying a goodun.
 
Check that when you spin one output the other doesn't spin. Unless in diff lock which u can turn quite easily. I've just acquired a 1.4 lt230 from a friend and we think he's friction welded the internal diff together as even out of diff lock it's still spins both outputs.
 
Nice one . Thanks
Deffo thinking of going used . Prefer to spend the xtra for a recon, on the kids at this time of year

Is a disco box the same as mine ? Will all lt230's fit ? Seems to be loads available on eBay for discos or td5
Does the stick come into cab in the same place on all ??

Thanks again fellas
 
To the best of my knowledge any LT230 will fit, like I said above tough as boots so kind of worthless, bit like l/r series 4.7 diffs.
Ive had a disco 1.2 a range rover 1.19 and a def 1.4 in my 90 all exactly the same.
Td5 disco one had different angled gears so is quieter so assume the def version is the same.
 
Great info
Thanks

So next question is.. while the transfer box is out do I remove lt77 aswell , do clutch while there and sort what I suspect to be rear crank oil seal leak. ( dripping from around bell housing ) ????
Thanks
 
If its really black oil that is a good indication that it is engine oil as opposed to gearbox oil, however dripping could be from a number of places (sump / crank seal etc). Give it all a good clean down, if you are still getting oil from the bell housing but the rest is staying dry then that is a good indication of a crank seal. If I had that issue and the transfer box already out then I would pull the gearbox while it is apart, even if just to check condition clutch / release arm etc
 
What engine have you got disco of def version?
I ask because if its disco retrofit lots of people dont do the mod properly and the bell housing can move on the back of the block allowing oil to leak, you can normally tell as the leak looks like its from the rear of the sump to the block.

Get the very best seal you can afford, if you search the part number you will see its no longer a rubber crank seal but one of them weird carbon jobs that has to be fitted dry and the crank also needs to be dry, also worth sticking the seal in with loctite as mine blew out/spun loose in the bel housing, again if you search you will see quite a lot of people have had the same issue.

Last time I had my tfer box out I did the same new clutch/arm/bearing etc 6 months later it started juddering, dont fit cheap clutch!
 
lynall said:
What engine have you got disco of def version?
I ask because if its disco retrofit lots of people dont do the mod properly and the bell housing can move on the back of the block allowing oil to leak, you can normally tell as the leak looks like its from the rear of the sump to the block.

Get the very best seal you can afford, if you search the part number you will see its no longer a rubber crank seal but one of them weird carbon jobs that has to be fitted dry and the crank also needs to be dry, also worth sticking the seal in with loctite as mine blew out/spun loose in the bel housing, again if you search you will see quite a lot of people have had the same issue.

Last time I had my tfer box out I did the same new clutch/arm/bearing etc 6 months later it started juddering, dont fit cheap clutch!
Click to expand...
 
Pretty sure it's a defender engine , I do remember reading somewhere about the difference ( can't remember now what was said ) but I do remember thinking I must have a defender lump ??!!

Don't suppose you know seal part number?.. I ordered the most expensive ( assuming that's the best ?)
Clutch was the 130 valeo one I believe. Read a few posts about this being a good upgrade . Although bit concerned that on ashcrofts site they say this can lead to more gearbox chatter due to more springs

Thanks

Just checked paddocks .. seal I ordered was ERR2532G



Although I just checked and it looks like britpart!!!? Worth me ordering another ... someone mentioned dowty?
 
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