losing power and slugish

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spookieone

New Member
Posts
11
Location
bala north wales
hi all wonder if anyone can give me a heads up as to what to do next please, i have a 1996 range rover dse 2.5 auto and everything was fine till few days ago . when driving it loses power and the only way to get it back is to floor the pedal so drops down but when it changes up after a few mins will lose power again , it dont stall and it runs on tick over fine .i dont know much about stuff like this so read a few posts and decided to change air filter and fuel filter and now the problem seems worse on the road it takes ages for the revs to build up still dont stall and no misfires and on tickover it still runs fine . the clear pipe from filter to injector pump is fine no leaks and fuel is running ok with no visable air bubbles the braided pipe that goes from filter to manifold seems ok too and as far as i see everything is connected . would you say this is in tank pump or injector pump

cheers paul
 
spookieone said:
hi all wonder if anyone can give me a heads up as to what to do next please, i have a 1996 range rover dse 2.5 auto and everything was fine till few days ago . when driving it loses power and the only way to get it back is to floor the pedal so drops down but when it changes up after a few mins will lose power again , it dont stall and it runs on tick over fine .i dont know much about stuff like this so read a few posts and decided to change air filter and fuel filter and now the problem seems worse on the road it takes ages for the revs to build up still dont stall and no misfires and on tickover it still runs fine . the clear pipe from filter to injector pump is fine no leaks and fuel is running ok with no visable air bubbles the braided pipe that goes from filter to manifold seems ok too and as far as i see everything is connected . would you say this is in tank pump or injector pump

cheers paul
Click to expand...

Have you had a look at the pipework around the turbo? If it isn't adding it's oomph to proceedings these engines can be positively pedestrian.
 
Mine would pull like stink to 75 then stop and only way to pick up again was to let off and boot it again. Gearbox oil was low
 
thankyou for the replies i need to top up gear box oil so will get that sorted tomorrow see if that makes any difference , if not will ask local garage to check pump as i am not savvie enough to check stuff like that lol
 
spookieone said:
thankyou for the replies i need to top up gear box oil so will get that sorted tomorrow see if that makes any difference , if not will ask local garage to check pump as i am not savvie enough to check stuff like that lol
Click to expand...

If the car is starting with one cycle of the glow plugs then it's unlikely that the pump is faulty. If you want to check it's flow rate go to 'how to' at the top of the Range Rover section and you'll find a Wammers lesson in testing it.
 
Have a look at the pipe that comes from under the manifold to the MAP sensor that is bolted to the top of the fuel filter. Must be free of blockages and sound. No splits to cause pressure loss. Maybe you are not getting boost fuel.
 
well gearbox topped up , out for a run still the same no coughing spluttering or missfires sounds like it always has but you will be driving along and you can feel it lose power and you have to boot it to pick back up again , no lights showing on dash or anything starts first time, will go to local garage tomorrow (part time mechanic) see if he can read codes for faults , my first thoughts were injector pump but with no misfires or any thing makes me say not injector pump so i thought in tank pump but it starts first time every time so now i have no idea lol
 
spookieone said:
well gearbox topped up , out for a run still the same no coughing spluttering or missfires sounds like it always has but you will be driving along and you can feel it lose power and you have to boot it to pick back up again , no lights showing on dash or anything starts first time, will go to local garage tomorrow (part time mechanic) see if he can read codes for faults , my first thoughts were injector pump but with no misfires or any thing makes me say not injector pump so i thought in tank pump but it starts first time every time so now i have no idea lol
Click to expand...
Just because it starts first time, it does not mean the in tank pump is good.
 
just done what you said took filter off put a can under 10 sec turn can empty did it a few time lucky if 20 mil in can so thankyou at least now i know what to change
 
update new filters and new lift pump , result getting worse lol no power on pulling away you have to wait whilst revs slowly build up once it gets to 2.5k up it does speed up then when your cruising along you can feel the power kick back and the revs die and you have to floor it to drop down gear before she picks up again few mins later power will drop again . she dont stall or over heat starts ok . local garages not much help they dont even have stuff to read faults last bit of advice i got from them was could be your pedals broken lol
 
They might not be mad.:D
There's elecktrikery bits between your foot and the engine. :eek:
You need to get some proper diagnostics readings before you empty your bank account guessing.
 
live in sticks north wales none of what i call local garages ie 30 mins drive have the kit to read my p38 98 plate think i going to end up at a dealer in chester or wrexham but bit worried about driving 40miles plus at moment , times like this miss the city lol
 
Last edited:
spookieone said:
live in sticks north wales none of what i call local garages ie 30 mins drive have the kit to read my p38 98 plate think i going to end up at a dealer in chester or wrexham but bit worried about driving 40miles plus at moment , times like this miss the city lol
Click to expand...

Try Deeside 4X4 in Connas Quay or Ian Berkley in Rock Ferry nr Birkenhead instead for the main stealers:)
 
update-
had codes read got temp sensor show minus 36 degrees and the injector sensor the main thing i noticed was acc pedal only went upto 60%
so my plan is pedal first then injector
 
spookieone said:
update-
had codes read got temp sensor show minus 36 degrees and the injector sensor the main thing i noticed was acc pedal only went upto 60%
so my plan is pedal first then injector
Click to expand...

Which temp sensor shows -36 degrees and what is wrong with injector sensor. 60% on throttle pedal maybe because engine is in limp mode. Is the MIL lamp on? Any fault with number four injector sensor should be putting that on.
 
as you can tell i am not mech minded i am lost when it comes to cars , there no lights showing on dash , i would say its not in limp mode as will do 70 just loses power then picks up again or floor it. it was hard to understand his strong welsh accsent but he basically said cars running cold on gauge and temp sensor was showing minus 36, then he said number 4 injector sensor was showing fault said it could be a wire or timing but that all goes above my head lol then he mentioned the pedal only going upto 60% said when he was playing with pedal it was not showing anything on his comp till you floor it,
 
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