Series 3 Looking for a classic ladrover repair garage in South Wales

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Hi all can anybody tell me if there is a decent landrover repair garage or mobile guy in or around South Walles I can go from Pontypool or Swansea areas if possible looking to repair a serious oil leak think it's a failed seal and also a slow starter checked starter motor which is fine .Earth looks fine but can't figure out how to replace the solonoeid ( which I have a new one) All help really appreciated but I do think this is a garage job due to the leak Many thanks Nick
Hi all can anybody tell me if there is a decent landrover repair garage or mobile guy in or around South Walles I can go from Pontypool or Swansea areas if possible looking to repair a serious oil leak think it's a failed seal and also a slow starter checked starter motor which is fine .Earth looks fine but can't figure out how to replace the solonoeid ( which I have a new one) All help really appreciated but I do think this is a garage job due to the leak Many thanks Nick

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With regards to the starter I would bypass the ignition and use a jump lead or two to test it direct from battery. If it works fine then work backwards from there.
I faffed around on our starter on the 2a, it needed a new starter. Little bit more straightforward as it had
big shame about that, snap on tools a big loss! Welding ability definitely a good skill to have. What’s going on with starter, not engaging , slow to turn, just clicks, screeching noise?
Have a search on this forum you might well find the answer

100mile a good test run
As regards the starter Steve it's an odd one I pulled the starter out and stripped it down instead of most you tube videies showing 2 bushes being replaced mine had 4 around the commutator ( I think its calied) believe it or not I have a degree in engineering so should be an easy one? But I noticed bushes had lots of meat on them or whatever the slang is for worn bushes cleaned it up etc put it back in no squeals etc Turn the key it fast and starts try it again it sounds like the battery is flat which is not the case ? It stood for a week turned over fast in the start and went to restart it sluggish ( very odd) the jump lead idea mentioned here sounds good when I am with it next week ( I bought the wader bolt and a new oil filter to try again) I wil run a jump pack underneath but I already did that when it was out of the vehicle and it span fast everything?
 
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I had problems my 2286 diesel sometimes it would turn over nicely then kind of screech ,
The engine was out for a refurb so easy to get to and seen how worn the flywheel gear teeth was at diametrically opposites, and this must be the most common resting positions as it’s turned off, so if you have starter off next time can always check the teeth

You said you checked the earths there should be one next to starter as well as good earth on battery these really need to be onto shiny bright metal with the ring connectors clean too and that goes for positive leads onto starter solenoid on mine the solenoid could be dismantled for cleaning, have you a pic of yours or similar

It can spin fast without load I guess but if a bit tired might struggle turning engine
 
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I had problems my 2286 diesel sometimes it would turn over nicely then kind of screech ,
The engine was out for a refurb so easy to get to and seen how worn the flywheel gear teeth was at diametrically opposites, and this must be the most common resting positions as it’s turned off, so if you have starter off next time can always check the teeth

You said you checked the earths there should be one next to starter as well as good earth on battery these really need to be onto shiny bright metal with the ring connectors clean too and that goes for positive leads onto starter solenoid on mine the solenoid could be dismantled for cleaning, have you a pic of yours or similar

It can spin fast without load I guess but if a bit tired might struggle turning engine
I didn't check the earth's properly only for tightness but I can say no screeches or squeals ? No sound of a slippage type ( missing teeth on the flywheel ) the earth strap from the starter to the chassis is a bare woven mesh type cable which does look a bit twisted and old I will try a straight forward jump pack to the starter next week and let you know if that's the problem Thanks Steve
 
Hi all can anybody tell me if there is a decent landrover repair garage or mobile guy in or around South Walles I can go from Pontypool or Swansea areas if possible looking to repair a serious oil leak think it's a failed seal and also a slow starter checked starter motor which is fine .Earth looks fine but can't figure out how to replace the solonoeid ( which I have a new one) All help really appreciated but I do think this is a garage job due to the leak Many thanks Nick
Have you heard of Promec Nr Llantrisant, S. Wales. Landrover Specialists. 02920890567. Have very good reputation.
 
First thing DONT PANIC…. All series leak oil! It’s a shock now for you but most of us just grin and bear it until it’s get too bad then action reqd.
Completely agree with the above here. My 2.25 diesel has had a rear main seal leak since I bought it over 10 years ago. When it needs a clutch I will do the main seal at the same time but it has stubbornly refused to need a clutch so far. I just park over a couple of drip trays on the drive. The gearbox also leaks badly which is the same thing when it comes out for a clutch I will fix that at the saem time!
 
Completely agree with the above here. My 2.25 diesel has had a rear main seal leak since I bought it over 10 years ago. When it needs a clutch I will do the main seal at the same time but it has stubbornly refused to need a clutch so far. I just park over a couple of drip trays on the drive. The gearbox also leaks badly which is the same thing when it comes out for a clutch I will fix that at the saem time!
I have 2 buckets under mine at the moment I know now it's only under pressure is when it leaks oil so I am presuming crank seal ( I do know the oil filter case is leaking but that was my fault ) your all obviously aware but there is a UV supplement you can add to the engine or gearbox oil which will light up with a UV torch light. Around £23.00 or so ( haven't used it but I can see it saving time trying to find the leak . Does anyone know if a flywheel puller is needed to access that rear crank seal ? Also I read it can be done in situ ( instead of removing the engine ( mine s the petrol) can't fathom how you would pull the old seal out ? I have purchased a new rear seal which came with 2 small cork gaskets I am thinking that this may be a gasket part of the sump
 
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