Long travel suspention problems +5 chassis bush

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warrior

warrior

Well-Known Member
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Leeds
Me and 3 of my mates all run +5 . After yesterday's playing at parkwood,

1 friends pulled through the poly bush
1 friends just dropped to bits ( think it was old)
1 has not checked his

And mine has bent the washer behind the bush see pic, I was thinking of some jonny or rose jointed arms, but then I think my wide angle prop won't be long enough on the slider joint,

Thoughts?
906DD163-9C00-4975-BBE5-2E56A05E2FEE.jpg
 
I've got the same setup, and a slightly bent washer. Don't see it as being a problem.

I think my shocks max out before anything else binds, if not then they must be very close. So by changing the arms you won't really gain much more drop, so prop length wouldn't be a problem. Get the calculator out and do some trig if you're worried about it.
 
are they glwyn lewis rear bars, as if so mine did exactlly the same, but my new adrenaline ones on my other truck, with the same polybush dont do it
 
jackmac said:
I've got the same setup, and a slightly bent washer. Don't see it as being a problem.

I think my shocks max out before anything else binds, if not then they must be very close. So by changing the arms you won't really gain much more drop, so prop length wouldn't be a problem. Get the calculator out and do some trig if you're worried about it.
Click to expand...


How the hell do you do that?

It's not more travel I'm wanting although that would be good, on full stretch it must be putting a fair amount of stress on the washer

johnlad said:
are they glwyn lewis rear bars, as if so mine did exactlly the same, but my new adrenaline ones on my other truck, with the same polybush dont do it
Click to expand...

Yes it's all Gwyns set up, might give Him a bell tomorrow,
 
The washer bending may not be a bad thing. After all, if the washer's bent it hasn't put so much stress on your chassis bracket or on the bar itself. I can't quote tell from the picture, but if it's loose on the radius arm you could probably just take it off, hammer it flat and put it back on, provided the bush and the radius arm themselves were in good condition.
 
I run the Adrenalin one's as well and don't have a problem,may be the gwyn one's are not as cranked.I also don't run poly bushes i use genuine Land Rover ones which i think give a little more.
 
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I have spoken to gywn Lewis and he said it does happen if you push your suspention hard to the maximum travel, he recomend genuine landrover bushes as the do give a little more than cheep copy poly bushes as he put it, but said I would still bend he washer,

I asked about if they were cranked more and he said spies that would stop it but then they wouldn't suite the 2" lift and would put more stress on the bush under normal everyday use,

He also advised against jonny or rose jointed as they were very fast and when the do can damage the chassis,
 
I'm running wide angle props with my jointed arms and the props go fully extened but not had any problems with it. I should really put some prop spacers on but just haven't got round to it. If ya worried about it mate just spacer them,

What's he saying about the jointed arms?? Don't understand the whole damage bit with the chassis haha... Ok I know he really knows his stuff and is a great bloke but I know quite a number of people running comp trucks with jointed arms for years now and no chassis problems lol!!!

The only difference is they've got no big rubber bush at the top to absorb bumps but I don't see how that would damage your chassis. And they let you have MADD flex ;)
 
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Apparently the wear out very quick and when the do if not replaced quick the banging around without the bush can crack the chassis
 
Rose joints wear like buggery but johny joints don't. I also doubt it will crack the chassis, if having a loose bush on a trailing arm cracks your chassis you must have a proper rotten chassis haha. Just think about all the bushes on rear trailing arms that have warn and created abit of play, that's never caused any to crack surely?
Hmmm Id like to see a photo of a cracked chassis from a worn joint lol! :rolleyes:
 
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MaxyMan said:
Rose joints wear like buggery but johny joints don't. I also doubt it will crack the chassis, if having a loose bush on a trailing arm cracks your chassis you must have a proper rotten chassis haha. Just think about all the bushes on rear trailing arms that have warn and created abit of play, that's never caused any to crack surely?
Hmmm Id like to see a photo of a cracked chassis from a worn joint lol! :rolleyes:
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I think he means if the joint goes while under strain.

The forces involved in a radius arm under strain will be mega.
 
IWhen I used to make arms I did the properly:p
 

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GINGE said:
I think he means if the joint goes while under strain.

The forces involved in a radius arm under strain will be mega.
Click to expand...

Yes radius arms there would be and is why I don't use jointed front arms! The joints just arnt beefy enough I don't think to last under the strain. Being jointed on the front your still limited and as I found out on the twist off challenge my factory front arms beat the score of the jointed front arms on another truck wich made said company not very happy haha ;)

Going for a 1 link set up on the front.

Pressbrake they look good mate, they look extened?? mine are similar but not cranked them and still using normal length & chassis mounts.
 
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MaxyMan said:
Yes radius arms there would be and is why I don't use jointed front arms! The joints just arnt beefy enough I don't think to last under the strain. Being jointed on the front your still limited and as I found out on the twist off challenge my factory front arms beat the score of the jointed front arms on another truck wich made said company not very happy haha ;)

Going for a 1 link set up on the front.

Pressbrake they look good mate, they look extened?? mine are similar but not cranked them and still using normal length & chassis mounts.
Click to expand...

Yes longer to help with rear steer
The cranked look is not for helping a bush that isn't there anymore it's to give more depth and strength in the arms without loosing clearance
 
Yep I didn't really want to weld new mounts on and only steers the slightest amount so I'm not that botherd.
Trying to keep it all bolt on so if I decide to sell can just swap to another chassis. Good thing about the 1 link front set up it simply bolts onto the chassis, can weld stronger braces on if using them for competition but only be used for the twist off challenges and greenlaning/ pay & play sites.
 
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