leaking/smoking defender 200tdi

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ps. this method does not check the cam timing at all. you can do this by working out when the valves are at full travel (ive been told) but ive never found this easy at all.
cam timing is a little less critical than crank / ip interraction however (in my limited experience, and as ive been told)
 
Hi Max
Silencer Boxes ! I think you will have 1 big 1 & 1 small 1 in the exhaust which will hold a lot of water ! so you need to give it a LOOOONG run to get it out if this makes sense ??


Steve
 
If the flywheel groove is not perfectly inline with the wadeing plug hole, you need to slacken the three bolts that hold the IP locking plate in place, and move it such as the drill bit WILL fit in the hole WHEN the flywheel groove is dead central.

ie. remove the drill, move that tiny bit to make the groove in the flywheel central, then hold evreything but the ip in place (either with locking tools, or just get it in gear, and make sure nothings going to move) - THEN loosen the three bolts on the locking plate, and use a socket on the center nut of the pump to adjust it so as you can get the drill bit in place - then tighten up the three bolts again.


The locking plate gives a small amount of adjustment between the pump and the sprocket that drives it - it is designed to give this fine tuning.

Note -

The locking plate bolts are so very easy to round the heads on. Theres no clearance with the timing cover on to get anything else on them but sockets - so start with a good 6 point socket, (rather than a 12) and make sure they dont get rounded.
 
Maxlondon said:
wouldn't that be a possibility ? somehow when I change the starter motor a heard a few loud 'bangs" before it actually start ( before the smoking problem the car didn't start and I changed the starter motor and that is when all this smoke started )
BY THE WAY , talking about that , the main relay was plugged to the starter motor before, then when I refitted it looked like no one else was like that so I redirected it straight to the battery . I have got an immobiliser and a cut off switch as well. couldn't be this ?
Click to expand...
what is the full story?
checking pump timing doesnt check cam timing so youve not proved timing is correct
 
Maxlondon said:
One more thing, when I pump the lift puml manually , is there supose to have any resistance ? Because it feel really soft and nothing come out of the fuel filter bleed screw
Click to expand...

The lift pump had an arm on it that runs against a lobe - ie cam operated.

If the engine has stopped at the point where the arm is already 'compressed' than the manual arm on the pump will just wobble weakly.
If you need to check it, then take the wire off the stop solenoid on the IP, and get someone to turn the keys whilst you look at the bleed.
 
julianf said:
ps. this method does not check the cam timing at all. you can do this by working out when the valves are at full travel (ive been told) but ive never found this easy at all.
cam timing is a little less critical than crank / ip interraction however (in my limited experience, and as ive been told)
Click to expand...
Yes I just thought I coud check at least one of the 3
 
Magicgrotto said:
Hi Max
Silencer Boxes ! I think you will have 1 big 1 & 1 small 1 in the exhaust which will hold a lot of water ! so you need to give it a LOOOONG run to get it out if this makes sense ??


Steve
Click to expand...
ok , will do , I thing I've got 1 really short coming out of the turbo , 1 going to under and another one or maybe 2 after that, will check later
 
julianf said:
If the flywheel groove is not perfectly inline with the wadeing plug hole, you need to slacken the three bolts that hold the IP locking plate in place, and move it such as the drill bit WILL fit in the hole WHEN the flywheel groove is dead central.

ie. remove the drill, move that tiny bit to make the groove in the flywheel central, then hold evreything but the ip in place (either with locking tools, or just get it in gear, and make sure nothings going to move) - THEN loosen the three bolts on the locking plate, and use a socket on the center nut of the pump to adjust it so as you can get the drill bit in place - then tighten up the three bolts again.


The locking plate gives a small amount of adjustment between the pump and the sprocket that drives it - it is designed to give this fine tuning.

Note -

The locking plate bolts are so very easy to round the heads on. Theres no clearance with the timing cover on to get anything else on them but sockets - so start with a good 6 point socket, (rather than a 12) and make sure they dont get rounded.
Click to expand...
ok, yes that is exactly what I thought of doing, just checking if it is actually usefull or not, thanks for the tip
 
jamesmartin said:
what is the full story?
checking pump timing doesnt check cam timing so youve not proved timing is correct
Click to expand...
ok,
The story is pretty much what I just wrote:
try to start one day, does for 2 sec then cut off, starting motor spinning then not,
changed battery and starter motor,
few loud bangs and a few tries later,
it started but also started smoking and leaking
 
julianf said:
The lift pump had an arm on it that runs against a lobe - ie cam operated.

If the engine has stopped at the point where the arm is already 'compressed' than the manual arm on the pump will just wobble weakly.
If you need to check it, then take the wire off the stop solenoid on the IP, and get someone to turn the keys whilst you look at the bleed.
Click to expand...
alright great, yes, didn't know that , was just pushing stupidly for 15min for no reason haha.
 
Maxlondon said:
ok,
The story is pretty much what I just wrote:
try to start one day, does for 2 sec then cut off, starting motor spinning then not,
changed battery and starter motor,
few loud bangs and a few tries later,
it started but also started smoking and leaking
Click to expand...

To me that sounds like the timing jumped way out at that point, but I would have expected that to have been discounted and (hopefully) reset when the head came off.

I'm north London, but visiting Morden area Friday morning. If nothing else I can possibly pop by and identify the smoke/vapour and any other quick visual inspections.
 
Seffy said:
To me that sounds like the timing jumped way out at that point, but I would have expected that to have been discounted and (hopefully) reset when the head came off.

I'm north London, but visiting Morden area Friday morning. If nothing else I can possibly pop by and identify the smoke/vapour and any other quick visual inspections.
Click to expand...
you dont see the timing belt when doing a tdi head gasket unlike more modern engines with ohc
 
jamesmartin said:
you dont see the timing belt when doing a tdi head gasket unlike more modern engines with ohc
Click to expand...
Of course you don't. I was even thinking of bent pushrods while I wrote that. Too much blood in my caffienne system.

Slaps self on wrist and wanders to the kettle
 
Seffy said:
To me that sounds like the timing jumped way out at that point, but I would have expected that to have been discounted and (hopefully) reset when the head came off.

I'm north London, but visiting Morden area Friday morning. If nothing else I can possibly pop by and identify the smoke/vapour and any other quick visual inspections.
Click to expand...
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Thanks a lot for your offer but I'll be at work tomorrow morning :/
 
Seffy said:
Of course you don't. I was even thinking of bent pushrods while I wrote that. Too much blood in my caffienne system.

Slaps self on wrist and wanders to the kettle
Click to expand...
I checked the pushrod, they look all good.

FOR EVERYONE,
I had a long convo with turboman and aparently he said that it is very likely to be a cracked block ...
Could be head and gasket but it has been pressure tested and changed.
I've got a bit of pressure coming out of the oil filler cap and when open I have some kind of roaring noise, looks like the level of the oil rose as well...
 
Maxlondon said:
I checked the pushrod, they look all good.

FOR EVERYONE,
I had a long convo with turboman and aparently he said that it is very likely to be a cracked block ...
Could be head and gasket but it has been pressure tested and changed.
I've got a bit of pressure coming out of the oil filler cap and when open I have some kind of roaring noise, looks like the level of the oil rose as well...
Click to expand...

Did yu check through the tappets again?

That or a cracked piston/s could be pressurising the crankcase, but if the oil level is going up, it has to be coming from somewhere.
 
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