Freelander 1 Latest Problem...Starting Woes

So recently I had a catastrophic failure of my alternator on my Freelander 1 02 GS TD4. By catastrophic I mean think lots of overheated electrics internally, lots of smoke, and that nasty burnt insulation smell.

Anyway the alternator has been replaced along with the lead that connects the alternator to the starter motor as the connector on the end was almost corroded through and also got a new battery.

The problem I have now is that it doesn't want to start from cold unless I give it a little squirt of Easy Start. Once it's running it's fine and it will start (albeit not as instantaneously as before the alternator problem) when the engine is warm. Did a leak back test and when the engine is running everything is good. However when cranking it seems that I have low pressure (hardly any fuel is leaking back). When we put it on the Snapon computer thingamajig it showed a pressure of around 60 psi. Not sure what it said when running though - should have written it down I guess but I don't think that the Snapon and LR really speak each other properly anyway..

So in short I seem to have low fuel pressure when cranking. I'm leaning towards a high pressure pump issue of some sort but frankly I'm guessing really. Now as some of you will know that high pressure pump is just above and behind the alternator (where it got hot). Everything was tickety boo before the alternator went poof and I'm kind of hoping that perhaps the regulator on the back of the pump has been cooked. Does anyone know if this is likely, or had similar issues, or whether the regulator can be inspected/ serviced/ changed with the high pressure fuel pump in situ. Or any other ideas what it could be?

Fritz

P.S. I can hear the HP pump priming when I turn the ignition band it may be running slightly longer than before but I can't really be certain about that

At idle, you should see about 350 kPa (50 psi) at LP side and 30 MPa (4350 psi) on the HP side. Cranking may be slightly lower. Not sure about your Snap-on tool (never owned anything so fancy!) but the LP might be called pre-supply, and the HP 'rail pressure' or similar.

Look also at the pressure regulator duty cycle - about 15% at idle.

The pressure regulator (on HP pump) can be removed with pump in situ - remove intake and, I think, starter and undo two very tight torx bolts.

Inspect the rail pressure sensor harness too, as well as injector loom.

Sounds like the HP regulator O ring to me. That little O ring is responsible for lots of starting issues.

Hi

Thanks for the replies.

I just checked with my mate (he owns the snap-on thing) and apparently the reading on the snap-on module was 3.5 bar so that would be the 50 psi I guess. We (read he) checked the injector loom and rail pressure sensor connection (heard they are prone to corrosion) and they both look ok.

So I've found the following parts but not sure exactly what bit/ bits I need.

https://www.britishparts.co.uk/products/6466-fuel-pressure-regulator-o-ring-MYX000040G

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover...-Regulator-MAV000040-Repair-Kit-/161597141389

I'm guessing that the ebay link is the o ring, nylon backing ring and gasket and that the former is just the o ring?

Or may I be better off just biting the bullet and replacing the whole regulator (£ 159 from island 4 x 4 - OUCH!!)

Fritz

I think you'll find this will fit just fine,, and save a few £
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Common-Ra...469814?hash=item4d4d3f3536:g:PTQAAOSwqu9U3zfY

And give up the easy start asap, the lack of lubrication can cause damage to your piston rings, reduce compression and make your engine forever hard to start when cold.

Hey thanks guys, very much appreciated.

Ordered the kit and should get it Friday and I'm reckoning an hour or two to fit.

At the moment I'm easy starting twice a day (to and from work). I guess maybe the bus and train tomorrow then?

Fritz

It was indeed that little green ring so thanks again for the advice.

Took just under an hour including thinking time to fit. RAVE says remove the intake manifold but you don't need to.

Disconnect battery - remove acoustic cover- undo and pull starter motor out the way (no need to completely remove) - then you have access to the two torx holding the regulator in place although you need an extension and ESP to find the back one (it's not actually that hard to get, you have to go by feel though).

Fritz