Landy repair cost - or is it worth it?

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Crazylurcher said:
Would really love to know what's not a failure on that list?
Click to expand...

Clutch Flexi Pipe needs replacing (Not a safety issue so not a failure)
Front crank shaft oil seal leaking (only a failure if very very sever should be an advisory maximum)
Both front prop shaft UJ's worn (not a failure or even an advisory)
Rear prop shaft rear UJ worn (not a failure or even an advisory)
Front Springs Seized up (not a failure or even an advisory) ps: oil and speedbumps can fix this without stripping them
Steering ball seals leaking (not excessive) (If not excessive its an advisory not a failure)
O/S rear drive flange leaking (advisory unless its very bad)
N/S head lamp fixing screw missing (only a failure if insecure)
 
Thanks Scrappy that's great, it sounds like I can get an MOT soon and then get the rest of the stuff done, it s so much easier when you can drive it around to get bits and bobs done
 
In the list I put, I would replace the clutch flexi hose as its less than 20 pounds and will stop you being stranded somewhere if it breaks. Mine broke over 100 miles from home but i was able to limp home with it but it was no fun :)

And just grease the propshaft nipples. In 15 years of driving series ive never broken a propshaft on one.

Best of luck with it
 
Get her going, £900 seems a fair price, there will always be something to sort on her but thats the beauty of Land Rovering, most other cars of that age with a list like that would be heading for the scrappy.
 
scrappyloz said:
Clutch Flexi Pipe needs replacing (Not a safety issue so not a failure)
Front crank shaft oil seal leaking (only a failure if very very sever should be an advisory maximum)
Both front prop shaft UJ's worn (not a failure or even an advisory)
Rear prop shaft rear UJ worn (not a failure or even an advisory)
Front Springs Seized up (not a failure or even an advisory) ps: oil and speedbumps can fix this without stripping them
Steering ball seals leaking (not excessive) (If not excessive its an advisory not a failure)
O/S rear drive flange leaking (advisory unless its very bad)
N/S head lamp fixing screw missing (only a failure if insecure)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Scrappy, i ve read that the front crank shaft oil seal and the rear drive flange can be pigs to do? any experience of them?
 
Its just a pain to remove everything to get to them. Fitting the seal isnt that hard just remove the old one and tap the new one in with a large socket the same size as the seal, as this makes it go in straight and true.

removing the crank pully is a pain as usually the bolt is a right pain to undo, but you can use the starter to crank the engine over with a socket and bar on to undo the bolt.

Then use a puller to pull the pully off.
 
scrappyloz said:
Its just a pain to remove everything to get to them. Fitting the seal isnt that hard just remove the old one and tap the new one in with a large socket the same size as the seal, as this makes it go in straight and true.

removing the crank pully is a pain as usually the bolt is a right pain to undo, but you can use the starter to crank the engine over with a socket and bar on to undo the bolt.

Then use a puller to pull the pully off.
Click to expand...

Is a puller a purchasable item?
 
I think I used the big one on this set: Clarke CHT270 3-Pce Gear Puller Set - Machine Mart

I just put the landy in gear and used a big adjustable spanner on the pulley dog-nut and ****ted it with a big hammer.

When you're removing / refitting the pulley there is a half moon tab that sits in a recess on the shaft. Make sure you've got the pulley at TDC before removing it or the tab will fall into the sump! When refitting I knocked a couple of burrs into the back of the tab so that it would sit still in the recess after losing the bugger a couple of times! why they couldn't have done this at the factory I don't know...
 
dominicbeesley said:
I think I used the big one on this set: Clarke CHT270 3-Pce Gear Puller Set - Machine Mart

I just put the landy in gear and used a big adjustable spanner on the pulley dog-nut and ****ted it with a big hammer.

When you're removing / refitting the pulley there is a half moon tab that sits in a recess on the shaft. Make sure you've got the pulley at TDC before removing it or the tab will fall into the sump! When refitting I knocked a couple of burrs into the back of the tab so that it would sit still in the recess after losing the bugger a couple of times! why they couldn't have done this at the factory I don't know...
Click to expand...

That's a Woodruff key.. :D
 
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