Disco 2 Rust Repair Quote Reasonable?

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Something I have been doing at work recently on truck floor paneis, 2mm steel plate, structural adhesive and 1/4 inch mono bolts.
Not sure if it is mot spec, but it is bloody strong.
Structural Adhesive is bloody expensive !! I looked at getting some for the new slam pillars on my 90 and ended up doing for a poor cheaper option. I should have used Tiger Seal I think as that stuffs brilliant.
 
Structural Adhesive is bloody expensive !! I looked at getting some for the new slam pillars on my 90 and ended up doing for a poor cheaper option. I should have used Tiger Seal I think as that stuffs brilliant.
No idea on cost, we had several tubes left over from some trailer mods, so I used them.
Had not seen or used it up until then.

Wurth was the make.
 
I would repair that, even though lots of Discovery 2s are being scrapped for a lot less decay. Take a look at "Croker vs Rover" or "Church House Classics" (Range Rover Classic) YouTube channels if you want some motivation!
If you do go ahead, spend some time of drenching the inside of all box sections with Dinitrol. Remember, rust usually starts inside and works outwards, so an immaculate chassis exterior doesn't mean it's good inside!
Personally I would remove the body (not difficult on a Disco) and go right through it.
 
5 grand is taking the pìss. If you don't like welding, why offer the service??
They may, or may not, like welding. Whether they like all the stripping out that comes before doing the welding is more questionable.
And whether they like it or not, it will still take a long time, and they have to pay someone, and the costs of running the garage, and have the garage space, which could be in use for another job, tied up for all that time while they are doing it.
 
looking at the photos, most of it is easily accessible, you may need to take a seat or 2 out and remove some carpet, as I had to do to weld up the foot well on both sides of my D2, I did the wiring loom side inner wing by wrapping the loom in a wet cloth an a piece of fire blanket, kept it wet, and only doing very small spot welds until it was completed, checking the loom for heat all the time

the fastest way is to just cut the rot out then plate over it, the best way is to cut out and fit in the new section and butt weld the joints, grind down back to original once painted and under sealed become in visible, just takes a bit more time
 
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looking at the photos, most of it is easily accessible, you may need to take a seat or 2 out and remove some carpet, as I had to do to weld up the foot well on both sides of my D2, I did the wiring loom side inner wing by wrapping the loom in a wet clothe an a piece of fire blanket, kept it wet, and only doing very small spot welds until it was completed, checking the loom for heat all the time
Great. You can buzz round the chap's house, do the job much cheaper, and still stick a good wedge in your pocket! :D
 
Croker vs Rover is a great channel, was already planning on going back over his D1 videos for some inspiration!

Unfortunately I dont really have the facilities to take the body off but I've had most of the interior out already at some point for various things so I'm not too worried about access for that

If I do go ahead and do it myself I'd definitely do it 'properly' and not just chuck a plate over a hole, the finished result being invisible would be great but the chances of that happening with my current lack of skill remain to be seen
 
Croker vs Rover is a great channel, was already planning on going back over his D1 videos for some inspiration!

Unfortunately I dont really have the facilities to take the body off but I've had most of the interior out already at some point for various things so I'm not too worried about access for that

If I do go ahead and do it myself I'd definitely do it 'properly' and not just chuck a plate over a hole, the finished result being invisible would be great but the chances of that happening with my current lack of skill remain to be seen
Get some scrap steel, and practice for a few hours, on plates about as thick as Disco Bodywork.
MIG isn't all that difficult, if you can weld at all with an old type stick welder, you will master it in a few hours.
And plenty of paint and underseal covers up any imperfections on the first few plates.
 
Croker vs Rover is a great channel, was already planning on going back over his D1 videos for some inspiration!

Unfortunately I dont really have the facilities to take the body off but I've had most of the interior out already at some point for various things so I'm not too worried about access for that

If I do go ahead and do it myself I'd definitely do it 'properly' and not just chuck a plate over a hole, the finished result being invisible would be great but the chances of that happening with my current lack of skill remain to be seen
Where in wales are you? Have a chat with Chris, Cambrian 4x4, Tel 07989 966740 He is near Lampeter. Nothing to do with me, he sorted my Disco out 5 years ago.
 
Be cheaper to scrap your D1 for spares and buy another one...... or buy a new chassis and swop it out. However, with any Landrover, if you rely on garages and bodyshops for your repairs, its not going to be economical to repair.....
 
Welding is a naff job on vehicles. It can be dirty, difficult and uncomfortable to do - and it takes time!

Keeping an older land rover is a case of ongoing maintenance, but unfortunately you have been hit with a lot of work in one go. You need to understand that there will be more things in the future.

I have a Defender now, but before I had a RRC with a V8. I need the off road capability but the V8 made it too costly for longer trips so it limited its use as I also wanted to do longer trips. As it got to the needing welding stage it had to go due to cost to use ratio, but if it was a diesel I would have persevered.

You have to make a decision on what you can do based on cost, time and an area to do the work. Also having someone local that is willing to give you a bit of help and advice would be a big help as it will give you the confidence to do the work.

With welding vehicles, due to the areas you will have to work, you also need to consider your age and health. Getting into some areas requires an amount of contorting and if you are not the most flexible of people or suffer with your knees/back etc, then keep that in mind.

With learning to weld, and having the kit, at least you are potentially lowering future repair costs. It will make keeping the vehicle more viable - but you need to have the time to do it and also a suitable area to do it. If you live in a terraced house on a main street and have very little time on your hands then doing these kind of repairs is unlikely to be viable.

Learning to weld will be much quicker if you have someone that can at least get you started. I can't comment on new welders as I already have an old one and would not know my way around modern gear. If you want advice on gear ask here or on the mig welding forum.

It might be worth letting people know where you are too. If you are lucky you may have someone local that can give some advice and tips.

Good luck with your decision.

Mick
 
Hi Guys,

I took the disco in for proper undersealing last week thinking that I'd got the corrosion issues sorted as the chassis and inner wings are all good.... oh boy was I wrong! Turns out the body has gone pretty dramatically in all the usual places. The intellegent thing to do would probably be abandon it but I'm too attached / in too deep to even consider that

The full list of repairs required are: (Pictures of Horror Show Attached)

Top of O/S Foot Well
O/S Outer & Inner Sill
O/S Rear Arch
N/S Front Arch
N/S Rear Arch
N/S Outer & Inner Sill
N/S Boot Floor
O/S Rear Body Mount
N/S Rear Body Mount
50p Hole Bottom of Front Chassis


To get all this sorted I've been quoted £5040 which is a bit of a gut punch! I wanted to get a second optinion based on your experiances on wether this is a fair price or I should explore other options to see if I can get it done cheaper elsewhere?
I could see about doing it myself but I've got no experiance or kit to do welding and not that much free time to work on it either so I'm not sure that'll be a particularly good idea if I want it done to a decent standard within the next year!

Any thoughts / advice is much appreciated!
Hmmm, take a tip from someone who has been in this position - give in and look for a better one, the problem is now its £5000 plus all the bits they find when it starts to get repaired and then its going to want more next year and so on, i had mine re chassised at simmonites - its on there web site but ive now chucked about £30,000 and its okay but every other week it needs more spending, its a 2004 TD5 landmark and its done 60,000 miles , ive had it since it was almost new, its just had 2 air bags and a pump and its still sat on its arse overnight , so who knows - valve block next in the hope thats it, and it has oil coming out of the back of the transfer box, so that will be a seal and new handbrake shoes needs that doing as well. I wouldn't go this route again - i should have sold it off for spares or to someone who could do the re chassis at home and put £30,000 into a nice L405 thats going to be ten years newer, have a look around, but not at the newer evokes and discovery sport and the lads in the garage next door have a very dim view of them, in there words the engines are made of chocolate and everyone of them has an electrical gremlin
 
Everyones opinions and input has been a great help, I've got it back on the drive now and have had a good look over it

I am going to soldier on with it and am starting to look at welding supplies to get me started, I'll hopefully be somewhat handy by the time I'm done!

In the mean time I'm demoting it from daily driver duties and finding something cheap and reliable to take its place
 
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