L322 brakes - vented vs drilled

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lezbrucelee said:
i run a track car and used to used drilled disc as was lead to believe they would lose heat better but they didnt. they just got hot and wrapped due to lack of strengh in the disc where it had been drilled. i know it totally different on the road but i'd stay clear of them myself.
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Racing and road use are quite different of course. But if you have a say 10" disc and you reduce its surface area by drilling holes in it therefore reducing the pad contact area. How does it improve the retardation of the disc in normal use?
 
wammers said:
Racing and road use are quite different of course. But if you have a say 10" disc and you reduce its surface area by drilling holes in it therefore reducing the pad contact area. How does it improve the retardation of the disc in normal use?
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Your right racing and road use are very different the brakes on the track are normally run around 450*C-500*C after a 20mins of hard use, the holes are ment to disipate heat but unless you are forcing alot of air through them (like a bike) there useless, instead of helping they warp as they are weakened due to the holes in them. Even with air ducting they hardly make a difference as the wheel holds the heat in.
On a road car it makes no difference at all unless u drive like a looney. inwhich case ur brakes will fade as the pads normally over heat first.
The key to nice firm sharp brakes is the type & size of caliper, pad and fuild your using.
Google Rallydesign and have a look through their wilwood brake range they'll be able to give your more info than i even can.
 
in the words of ba baracus, you boys do like to jibba jabba dont ya:cool:. i think the bloke who posted the original question about the brakes has long since done one do to all the crap being spilt. if he is still reading then this is for you, i like my new uprated brakes, if you want some go get em and see for yourself. and for the others i dont drive like a looney, well not all the time. seriously though, when towing a fooking great trailer they have definatly improved that situation too.
 
arron beast unleashed said:
in the words of ba baracus, you boys do like to jibba jabba dont ya:cool:. i think the bloke who posted the original question about the brakes has long since done one do to all the crap being spilt. if he is still reading then this is for you, i like my new uprated brakes, if you want some go get em and see for yourself. and for the others i dont drive like a looney, well not all the time. seriously though, when towing a fooking great trailer they have definatly improved that situation too.
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I love talking S**T :D, What brakes do you have on yours? I find the brakes when towing a bit weak, def could be better.
 
I need to replace my pads and discs very soon, I was going with the Drilled/Grooved option mainly due to towing a big 25' twin axel caravan.......it does take some serious stopping....if it means having to replace the pads more often, then so be it, better that than the feeling of not stopping as the caravan pushes you along when trying to stop.......:eek:
 
hoarec said:
I need to replace my pads and discs very soon, I was going with the Drilled/Grooved option mainly due to towing a big 25' twin axel caravan.......it does take some serious stopping....if it means having to replace the pads more often, then so be it, better that than the feeling of not stopping as the caravan pushes you along when trying to stop.......:eek:
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The caravan should brake it's self. Maybe you should take a look at the van brakes also.
 
yeah, that is also planned as it is due a service....they do work, probably not as good as they should though....
 
I used to tow a 21' twin axle Hobby with a P38. Never had a problem at all with the brakes but I did notice the caravan brakes only used to really come on during heavy braking. But as soon as they did come on, you could certainly feel the difference. I think the damper on the coupling will stop the trailer brakes coming on all the time until absolutely necessary. I once towed an empty trailer with a knackered coupling - it hopped and skipped down the road as the wheels alternatively locked up / released / locked up etc. Un-towable.
 
I really noticed it when some T**T pulled out in front of me while I was doing the obligatory 50 MPH.....Not a problem if he had accelerated away, but instead ...No......he pulled out and almost stopped in the middle of the road, I thought the van was going to come over the top of me.........should have seen his eyes in his mirrors though,:eek: with a P38 and caravan barrelling towards your rear window.......:hysterically_laughi
 
arron beast unleashed said:
bastid, why didnt you post that earlier?(about 3 months ago). i been robbed,;)
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Don't worry mate we all get done. Maybe from not looking around. Just got a EAS pressure switch from Island 4x4. £39.99 plus £5.00 post. Total cost £44.99 yet the same firm sells the same item on Ebay for £34.99 plus £2.50 post total cost £37.49. Pays to have a bloody good look before buying. :doh::doh::doh:
 
arron beast unleashed said:
in the words of ba baracus, you boys do like to jibba jabba dont ya:cool:. i think the bloke who posted the original question about the brakes has long since done one do to all the crap being spilt. if he is still reading then this is for you, i like my new uprated brakes, if you want some go get em and see for yourself. and for the others i dont drive like a looney, well not all the time. seriously though, when towing a fooking great trailer they have definatly improved that situation too.
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:clap2::clap2::clap2:i agree , i run uprated discs and pads and they do make a difference ,oem discs and pads are ok but towing they do fade and somtimes the discs warp [unless you want to engage the abs every time you want to slow down to save heating up the discs but i dont think your passengers will be to happy or the person following] therefore i recomend uprated brakes .now some people will say waste of money blaa blaa blaa but i know they do make a difference i have tried both
if it makes the vehicle perform better imho money isnt an issue
another example i fitted koni shock absorbers what a difference no more wallowing like a bag of ****e worth every penny
 
Is the better stopping and lack of fade not down to the pad material rather than the discs? All of the contributors here that have fitted 'uprated' discs have also fitted uprated pads. I haven't seen one that has fitted drilled or grooved discs with ordinary pads and said what a difference. Everything is a compromise - price - wear rate - fade resistance - braking performance. I can well accept a great difference with expensive pads (and cheap copies) but personnaly I can't see the discs making any noticeable difference. Personnal choice at the end of the day. Long may it rule.

Comments noted about your Konis klf400. I've though about those too. Does your ride suffer at all?
 
Derek Ward said:
Is the better stopping and lack of fade not down to the pad material rather than the discs? All of the contributors here that have fitted 'uprated' discs have also fitted uprated pads. I haven't seen one that has fitted drilled or grooved discs with ordinary pads and said what a difference. Everything is a compromise - price - wear rate - fade resistance - braking performance. I can well accept a great difference with expensive pads (and cheap copies) but personnaly I can't see the discs making any noticeable difference. Personnal choice at the end of the day. Long may it rule.

Comments noted about your Konis klf400. I've though about those too. Does your ride suffer at all?
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regarding the konis i cant say i have noticed the ride suffering [ i take it you mean harsh or choppy ride] they are adjustable , i set them about midway and they have been fine , the rangy doesnt lean and wallow half as much into corners just stays nice and taught also if you brake hard doesnt dive on the front
thing is with konis they resist both ways, if your going into a corner the one side is resisting compression while the other side is resisting expansion
before i bought them i thought they cant be as good as they claim [rpi engineering swear by them] so i fitted them and wow what a difference didnt seem the same rangy
maybe if they were set to hard there could well be a compromise on ride quality. not cheap though around £75 each
they were quite difficult to fit the koni shocker just wanted to expand all the time so the top mounting was fixed first then you really have to push up hard to locate the lower mounting all the while the shocker is pushing back at you hard, i made several attempts to engage each shocker:)
 
Derek Ward said:
Is the better stopping and lack of fade not down to the pad material rather than the discs? All of the contributors here that have fitted 'uprated' discs have also fitted uprated pads. I haven't seen one that has fitted drilled or grooved discs with ordinary pads and said what a difference. Everything is a compromise - price - wear rate - fade resistance - braking performance. I can well accept a great difference with expensive pads (and cheap copies) but personnaly I can't see the discs making any noticeable difference. Personnal choice at the end of the day. Long may it rule.



Hit that on its nail on the head. :)

Adding to my earlier post the holes are also there to allow the gases, made from the pad, to escape easier. Found that out today, i have no ideea what gases before asked.
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