L322 2006 electronic

Ryoishikawa · May 24, 2018

Hello the car is on bump stops . When I ran power to the fuses the air suspension doesn’t work only ran a temp one from a ignition live cable. Only things I have noticed in the rear fuse box panel is for some reason the maxi fuse for the air suspension is a 60amp and not a 50 amp like said in the manual or panel guide. I’ve even got the wiring diagram for the whole car but if it had a short it would pop fuses in which it doesn’t . I even ran a temporary Power to the rear fuse box air suspension fuse to see if that powers the air . I know the pump works as checked that but need make a lot of noise but I don’t know if that was normal . Is there a way I could pump the air suspension without the rocker switch

holidaychicken · May 24, 2018

Again, how did you cure the original fault of no power to the other systems, it may be related?

I don't know how to inflate the suspension, you have a later version of compressor to me.

You need to confirm your battery voltage is good or some systems will not activate with low power.

If you have no EAS lights then i can't believe you wont have any faults logged in the EAS section of your diagnostics.

Ryoishikawa · May 24, 2018

I ran power to those circuits of the fuse board and now all have 12volts . The battery has 12volts and when running has 13volts so surely the battery is fine .

holidaychicken · May 24, 2018

12 volts is a dead battery although if it was that dead it wouldn't start, 13 volts when running is way too low, should be around 14.5

https://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/battery-testing-and-maintenance/car-battery-voltage-and-testing

Datatek · May 24, 2018

holidaychicken said:
12 volts is a dead battery although if it was that dead it wouldn't start, 13 volts when running is way too low, should be around 14.5

https://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/battery-testing-and-maintenance/car-battery-voltage-and-testing

I agree that 12 volts is as good as dead, however, my mates L322 (thankfully now disposed of) would still start with 12 volts showing on a DVM. 14.7 volts is the set point on the L322 alternator.

Ryoishikawa · May 24, 2018

I have 12.6 volts with the car not on and now 13.8 volts while car is running. the battery in the car is 019 if that helps

The rocker switch turns on, then quickly turns off again when I start the car

Would these red lines do that

Ryoishikawa · May 24, 2018

Does anybody have a diagram of the front passenger side fuse box on top and shows what relays are what

holidaychicken · May 24, 2018

i think you still need diagnostics.

Ryoishikawa said:
I ran power to those circuits of the fuse board and now all have 12volts . The battery has 12volts and when running has 13volts so surely the battery is fine .

DID YOU RUN SEPARATE POWER TO THE FUSE BOX OR DID YOU FIX THE ACTUAL FAULT?

The images below are taken from the 2007 onward manual that should apply to your vehicle but 2006 is the changeover year from BMW to Jaguar systems so you make have a mix of both although your EAS I would say is the later electronics as you have touch screen.

Ryoishikawa · May 24, 2018

I ran a separate power to the fuse box to see what else it could be . I’ve checked the fuses behind the battery . There looks like a relay missing from the passenger fuse box closest left at the front as looking at fuse boxes for sale they all have them , should be next to the tall green relay

holidaychicken · May 24, 2018

There is obviously something else wrong, just running a separate cable is not curing the problem.
OK, Start at the beginning, when did the problem start as in was the car running fine previously ?

I would be inclined to disconnect your battery and put it on charge, preferably on a smart charger.
If you battery is low or in your case the charging voltage is low then an ECU may restrict voltage to certain systems to protect them.

Ryoishikawa · May 24, 2018

Hey I was driving everything was all ok then all of a sudden dash / cluster lights went off . And the air suspension started to drop got it Home checked the battery and was like 11 volts and ordeeed a new one and here we are . No faults on the dash

holidaychicken · May 24, 2018

your battery voltage should be 14.5 volts approx. with the engine running.
I think i am taking you around in circles, I would say you need to plug it in to range rover specific diagnostics, with all those problems you should have codes stored in most of your systems due to low voltage.

holidaychicken · May 25, 2018

I had a search and found similar symptoms on the Land Rover Discovery which pointed towards a faulty brake light switch if you want to have a search

Datatek · May 25, 2018

Ryoishikawa said:
Hey I was driving everything was all ok then all of a sudden dash / cluster lights went off . And the air suspension started to drop got it Home checked the battery and was like 11 volts and ordeeed a new one and here we are . No faults on the dash

Probably didn't need a new battery, just a new alternator judging by the voltages you are quoting. Many new batteries need charging BEFORE fitting.

Ryoishikawa · May 26, 2018

Rite I’ve had the battery charging on a smart charger for the last day . Will look later
12v anyway so don’t think it’s gonna charge more than that .

holidaychicken · May 26, 2018

I appreciate it is difficult to understand that 12 volts is a flat battery...

Datatek · May 26, 2018

Ryoishikawa said:
Rite I’ve had the battery charging on a smart charger for the last day . Will look later
12v anyway so don’t think it’s gonna charge more than that .

If all you see at the battery with the smart charger connected, maybe your DVM is faulty. During the initial charge phase you should see between 14.5 & 14.8/15 volts dropping to a float charge of around 13 volts when fully charged. Half an hour after disconnecting the charger, you should still see 12.8 volts from the battery.

gold rover · May 26, 2018

holidaychicken said:
I appreciate it is difficult to understand that 12 volts is a flat battery...

Initially I was reading to see if I could learn, I stayed to see if you were going to become SaintHC, now I'm only watching this thread, to see when you finally give up.

Bix · May 26, 2018

Ryoishikawa said:
Rite I’ve had the battery charging on a smart charger for the last day . Will look later
12v anyway so don’t think it’s gonna charge more than that .

For the sake of diagnosis you need to be exact with your measurements. Is it showed 12.0v or 12.7v? Because just saying 12v makes it hard to follow. It might not seem much of a difference, but the devil is in the details.
Also, anything less than 14.7v while running means the alternator isn't pushing out the right output. So already you have a problem if it is churning out 13.5v, I'd suggest getting an accurate reading on that with a proven multimeter, as there is potential yours might be faulty, if it is only showing 12v on a fresh charged battery.

holidaychicken · May 26, 2018

gold rover said:
Initially I was reading to see if I could learn, I stayed to see if you were going to become SaintHC, now I'm only watching this thread, to see when you finally give up. View attachment 149761

It is very hard when you have to keep asking the same questions over and over and....you get it..

I do like to see a problem resolved, this may be how not too do it and I should of stuck with - Rule Number One !
The hard part was thinking the problem is half solved and then reaslising it has just had the problem bypassed and saying there is no faults on diagnostics can't be true as they come out the factory with faults.
Hopefully we will get is solved.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_state_of_charge

L322 2006 electronic

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