knackered range rover??

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question after question here just dont want to anything wrong!!
is the lpg not pressurised! if i remove any of when dismantling??!!!!
dont want any nasty surprises!!
 
close to lpg tank(s) there should be a valve, close it off and that seals the tank off. there should also be solenoid valves, these are located at the tank and at the inlet to the vapouriser, you can pull the wires off (put a bit of tape over wires to avoid shorts) this will also cut the gas off. there is no chance of gas escaping and it should not unless the valves are faulty. with out power the solenoids are closed!

you dont need vin for parts, most good suppliers can get parts just from reg. if its for eka code the number you need is in the window, under where you put tax disc, just riveted to dash area!
 
Compression test complete if your looking at it and cylinder 1234 on left and 5678 on right all test very similar around 150psi and number 5 and 6 both tested 60-70!!
So its probably gasket went there then yeah!?
 
i would say so mate, remove heads starting with the suspect side (which i think are cyls 2 and 4) carefully remove the head trying to leave as much a gasket as possible in tact. have a look at the damage, if the gasket is obviously blown then this is your issue, if you cant determine the gasket as blown look at the height difference if any between the liner and the deck of the block. if the deck looks like one piece of metal and you cant distinguish the liner from the block then you should be safe!!!

dont forget to note the plug lead positions. the coil pack should be numbered!!!
 
THANKS GAV BUT BEARING IN MIND IM NO MECHANIC and have heard of all these bits like coil packs im afraid its lamens terms for me lol i.e i would call the cap that goes on spark plug the bit that goes on the end of the plug lol so
so when i remove plug leads ill tape them up and number them as i will most things
also where is the best place to get a full replacement gasket kit? land rover? and does it come with like rocker gaskets,inlet manifold gaskets etc? as it looks like these are just paste and no gasket!!
 
the kits on ebay arnt bad, around 50 quid i think or maybe 70 and it include everything. you will also need the head bolts, most important!!!
 
i think your right hammy i dont know what ones are what but yeah if thats the case its 2 and 4 are knacked by the look of it so im now away to start dismantling it but i cant seem to see anything to turn the gas off?
 
i have sent him a message to try and confirm what i all get and to make sure the model is right but no response as yet thanks alarm fitter
 
thats it stripped right down to the heads and most of the bolts out but rain came pouring down!!! dam
hoping to get them out in the morning!!
there was alot of bolts here and there not tight as they should have been!?
and alot of grease,build up of general crap everywhere and alot of water mixed through but all parts so far look good as far as i can see!! gonna pressure clean everything in morning i will deff take some photos for you guys to see tomorrow
WHATS THE PREFFERED OIL TO USE WHEN REDOING??
 
good 15/40 synthetic i think. have you downloaded the rave cd? everything you need is in there!!!

your gonna need it for the torqu values and sequence info, whilst your that far in you might be as well replace the oil pressure switch!!
 
you have been really helpful gav and ta for your number i phone if im stuck!!
couple more questions before bed lol!
alternator off and some other bits to remove belt on front is this the timing belt? as i cant see another? whats best way to put back on and wheres the oil pressure switch lol? what does it look like? and where do i get this rave cd as i will need the torque settings for refitting?
 
rave cd you need cd2 from that site, you can also go here for a pdf version,(the bit that says download|mirror) dont know if its a full one tho!

the belt is the serpentine belt, about a tenner so replace if looks worn, and is the main belt. the timing system is a chain and is behind the front cover, dont worry about it unless you wanna do it anyway. not expensive and you will(i think) get the gaskets in the set. again its all dependant on how far you want to go!!
as for putting it back on, get someone to hold the top while you put bottom side on, its a bugger to get it between the crank and cam pulleys sometimes!!

the oil switch is on the drivers side of the engine above the oil filter but below where the head joins the block, they are a bag to get to when engine is assembled!! but for the sake of a few quid can save hassles with leaks!
 
ok might do it but how does it save hassles with leaks? not going to get anything done today iuts pouring with rain nightmare im annoyed!!
is there a particular make of oil gave? as ill go out and get it and some coolant and other stuff for flushing today as cant do any work
makes like millers or ctx etc? should get at halfords eh?
 
ok might do it but how does it save hassles with leaks? not going to get anything done today iuts pouring with rain nightmare im annoyed!!
is there a particular make of oil gave? as ill go out and get it and some coolant and other stuff for flushing today as cant do any work
makes like millers or ctx etc? should get at halfords eh?

as stated in another thread,only use a mineral oil in this engine not a synthetic oil,use castrol 15/40 or 20/50.
 
ok thanks for that appreciated any idea how much i will need?
also do you just buy engine flush? 1 bottle do? never done it before?
 
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