Keycode lockout

Hello All

I know this topics has been covered loads of times.,I have tried lots of different things mentioned on here and google but still no joy.

I was away and asked my father to put the My Rangie (p38 4.6 2002) into the garage when he went to do it the battery was dead, so he got the booster pack and tried to start it but the Keycode Lockout kicked in and as he has seen me unlock it using the key he thought he would have a bash and it never worked, He then changed the batteries in the fob (as this was what caused the problem before) and that never worked. Unfortunately he never knew about the time limit for changing the battery

Since i came back i have disconnected the battery to give it a full charge and tried to unlock using the key-code but it never worked i then waited an hour until the key-code message on the display disappear tried the key code again but its not registering I am attempting to enter the code. Its only the drivers door that open and closes when I turn the key and I cant open any other door apart from the tail-gait. I have checked all the fuses and none have blown, The alarm does sound when you open the bonnets or try to start it up. When i turn the key to the second ignition point is comes up with windows, i gearbox fault and engine disabled on the display screen.

I have am losing it now. I have tried loads of different things but to no avail. Some posts have suggested that all the doors should unlock and lock when turning the key in the drivers door

All help will be appreciated

Regards

Steve

Pm Mozz smith, he's your man.

Check the battery voltage, gearbox fault message is a common sign of low battery voltage. If the battery has been totally flat it may not have recovered.

If only the drivers door is locking and unlocking on the key, that suggests the microswitches in the door lock are non-functional and so the BECM isn't registering your EKA code entry.

Bladerunner919 said:

If only the drivers door is locking and unlocking on the key, that suggests the microswitches in the door lock are non-functional and so the BECM isn't registering your EKA code entry.

Click to expand...

As above

Thanks for the help so far. Datatek i checked the battery and it was done so i have bought a new one. But still it persists.

Hopefully i will manage to get a look at the microswitchs but i will have to try to move the car as the door opens on to a busy road (how come it never happens in the garage). Before I look at the microswitches could there be a problem with the key not being synced as the batteries in the fob were changed while the engine was disabled. Would this stop the central locking when i open the drivers door?

johno2609 said:

Thanks for the help so far. Datatek i checked the battery and it was done so i have bought a new one. But still it persists.

Hopefully i will manage to get a look at the microswitchs but i will have to try to move the car as the door opens on to a busy road (how come it never happens in the garage). Before I look at the microswitches could there be a problem with the key not being synced as the batteries in the fob were changed while the engine was disabled. Would this stop the central locking when i open the drivers door?

Click to expand...

You still need to check the battery voltage on the car.
Low battery may mean it has lost sync.
The easy answer is diagnostics as the EKA code can be entered with a Nanocom which can also do a re-sync if required.
If you unlock with the key, put the key in the ignition, it should I think re-sync the FOB automatically on your year of car, but with the key in the ignition in position 1 you can try pressing the lock/unlock buttons.

hi johnjo , check your messages ... cheers mozz

Datatek said:

You still need to check the battery voltage on the car.
Low battery may mean it has lost sync.
The easy answer is diagnostics as the EKA code can be entered with a Nanocom which can also do a re-sync if required.
If you unlock with the key, put the key in the ignition, it should I think re-sync the FOB automatically on your year of car, but with the key in the ignition in position 1 you can try pressing the lock/unlock buttons.

Click to expand...

I have to lock\ unlock mine with the key then press the lock/unlock buttons for mine to re sync when iv had the battery off

biketeacherdave said:

I have to lock\ unlock mine with the key then press the lock/unlock buttons for mine to re sync when iv had the battery off

Click to expand...

How it works is year dependent.

Hi
The p38 is running again just! I must say thanks for all the advice especially Mozz who has the patience of a saint talking me through things

In the end I got it transported to Mann Automotive at Laurencekirk and they managed to unlock the car and get it running however there was problem with the key fob they have had to disable the immobiliser and alarm. I either need a new key fob or a new reciver so i will wait until the next MOT and see whats required before making that choice.