keycode lockout problem

martyuk said:

Thanks guys - it is nice to get a closer to a resolution..

As I mentioned, I will update again once I've heard back from the owner/OP when the replacement BECM has arrived and been installed. I keep a backup copy of BECMs I work on on my diagnostics machine - mostly in case the postal system decide to lose it on the way... but it's also useful in cases like this, that I can just get another one ready to go and out the door - and then get the dodgy one back once the vehicle is up and running again...

I know what you mean Datatek about things you think need doing and not pushing to do them - but we all live an learn. It is one of the reasons I always replace the microswitches in the door latches I refurbish, whether they all test OK or not - because they are the kind of thing that one day will just fail out of the blue - or go intermittent - so fresh ones every time!

Canada will hopefully be a bit warmer than when I was last there... was still down to -8 back in March! Just a tad chilly... and a pity Niagara Falls weren't still partly frozen over, as that would have made a nice photo or 2!

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Datatek said:

Can I ask what diagnostic kit you are using on the BECM please?
I have seen minus 49C in Canada and plus 35C

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Datatek said:

Can I ask what diagnostic kit you are using on the BECM please?
I have seen minus 49C in Canada and plus 35C

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wammers said:

Think he has the full fat MSVII with the BECM reset module.

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mozz smith said:

hi marty , maybe a daft question , but here goes !!!!! as you say you have both machines i.e. the nanocom and the faultmate and also the add ons for the different variants of the p38 , so how do the two machines compare to say an AUTOLOGIC does the latter do all the same diagnostic coverage as the nano and faultmate combined plus extra capability ????? I do know that the autologic is terrificly expensive !!!!!! and am I right in that bbs make all 3 ????? ,,, from my own expierance having had fuse and relay failures or intermittent faults on relay outputs and operation ,then having had at least 6 independent diagnostic tests at 6 differ locations but all using AUTOLOGIC and all failing to provide a answer or result regarding electrical communication then what kit would be suggested and would give a true diagnostic answer ?????? would the main dealer t4 cover it or not ???? as I said maybe a daft question ,but trying to get my limited brain cells around this as obviously 6 visits on diagnostic checks doesn't come cheap ,,, I have read many many posts on similar problems on electrical diagnosis but never got the answers ,,,, kind regards mozz

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wammers said:

The Nanocom is not locked to one car. You can use it on any car providing you have the correct module and an access code. Costs £50.00 a module. Gems, Thor or Diesel. Gems won't work on Thor or diesel. Thor won't wok on Gems or diesel and so on. Faultmate MSVII is locked to a VIN number, an additional VIN number can be added for a fee. If you want it for commercial use (Any vehicle) it is bloody expensive. The module to unlock a BECM is bloody expensive. The only thing an MSVII will do that a Nanocom can't is unlock a BECM. But as said the module to do that is serious money. Autologic covers many vehicles not just Land rover same as Snap-on unit does but is not a dedicated unit for Land rover so is not as good on them as MSVII or Nanocom.

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mozz smith said:

thank's wammy , I did know about the nano , i.e. being not locked to one car and about the variants to add i.e. thor or doosel or gems . but thanks for explaining this ,, so in essence then it seems the best choice would be a faultmate with add ons and a laptop dedicated just for that usage ,,, sounds like a plan but not a cheap one ????? and thought about wether autologic was dedicated just to landrover but at k10 a throw its logical "pardon the pun" that it is for any vechicle ,, who actually makes autologic ???? do you know ?? cheers mate

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mozz smith said:

thank's wammy , I did know about the nano , i.e. being not locked to one car and about the variants to add i.e. thor or doosel or gems . but thanks for explaining this ,, so in essence then it seems the best choice would be a faultmate with add ons and a laptop dedicated just for that usage ,,, sounds like a plan but not a cheap one ????? and thought about wether autologic was dedicated just to landrover but at k10 a throw its logical "pardon the pun" that it is for any vechicle ,, who actually makes autologic ???? do you know ?? cheers mate

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martyuk said:

The Nanocom (in my opinion) is by far the most cost effective/best solution from an owners perspective. It's small, handy to keep in the vehicle cubby box/glove box and is completely stand alone - so no laptop required to use it.

It also offers a SD card slot so you can record live data into a csv file which can then be imported to the likes of Excel to monitor values etc.

The only reason I bought the Faultmate was because of the SM035 module for unlocking BECMs, as I had a pile of spare ones sitting around which I couldn't do anything with - so decided it was worth the investment in the unlocking module.

As another update from the owner/OP - I have had confirmation that the other BECM I programmed before heading away to Canada is there and he has installed it. The vehicle started first time, and everything is working as it should other than he can't resync the key fob.

He had the same issue on the other BECM and as this is a completely different logic and power board, I am confident that it isn't a BECM problem this time! I have had the lockset code translated into the FOB codes by BBS, and these match what is stored in the BECM - which is good news.

Whenever he turns the key in the door (either to lock or unlock) he gets a beep from alarm. He is confident that the drivers door latch microswitches are all working, and the key fob LED blinks slow, then fast when pressing both lock and unlock.

He mentioned to me about there being battery drain at one point so I have said that it might be work driving the RR away from where it currently is and then trying to resync the fob - as the battery drain could be due to RF interference and this could be stopping communication from the fob to the vehicle.

Anyone have any other thoughts? The alarm isn't going off at all then the opens the door(s) and the vehicle will start - so it's all in sync and immobiliser is off etc (passive immobiliser has also been turned off in the BECM when I had it on the bench).

I will look into it more aswell so I can email him with any other ideas, but and now away here working so will have a bit less time than I did last week!

At least he's back up and running now though - which he's very happy with since the vehicle had been stood for 9 weeks from what I understand.

Marty

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wammers said:

It maybe the passive being turned off that is stopping the fob syncing.

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martyuk said:

Hmm... I'll look into it... It shouldn't make a difference - you should still be able to sync the fob in door with passive off. I've had the passive turned off on my 2001 for the last few years and had no trouble resyncing the fob after I've had the battery disconnected. I know a few other owners with the passive turned off (on earlier models than mine) and don't have issues syncing fob either.

Will keep it in mind as something to mention to him if he's got someone near who can hook it up to standard diagnostics... - I think he mentioned about having a local LR place fairly close.

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martyuk said:

Yeah, I noticed that but who knows with P38s sometimes...

I did notice that his BECM has obviously been replaced before (probably by land rover as there were no signs the board had been connected to with Faultmate before did) as he has an early 1995, but the BECM was one of the latest part numbers.. VIN etc all matched his vehicle and the BECM had been left unlocked.

The fact the alarm blips every time to me is the strange part. Makes me wonder if one of the door ajar switches isn't behaving properly though that *should* bring up a message on the dash as to what isn't closed properly.

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wammers said:

The method of syncing the fob is different on the early cars. There is no passive sync on his car if it is 1995. Only came in in 1997. You sync the fob on early cars by locking car with key. Then unlocking and locking again within 30 seconds of first locking. Basically locking then unlocking and re locking before alarm sets. Suggest he reads Workshop manuals > 86 Electrical > Body electrical control module (Becm) - description. For more detail. The three switches in the drivers door lock CDL switch, Key switch and door ajar switch will all need to function to achieve this sync.

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Datatek said:

I have never noticed the FOB LED blinking at different rates

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martyuk said:

I think he should be able to do it as per normal for later model vehicles - even though he has a 1995 - the BECM has one of the later YWC part numbers, and the later post 97MY logic boards, with a later version of firmware - which is why I figure the BECM has been replaced before. I'll mention in an email to him to have a read of the workshop manual to reiterate and make sure he's doing it right though!
The loop round the ignition lock will not be there regardless of the BECM model.


If either of the buttons is pressed down and held down, the LED blinks 3 or 4 times (from memory - don't have the keys with me whilst I'm away) slowly, and then starts blinking rapidly. I doubt it's an issue if yours doesn't - as long as the fob works fine!

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