P38A Key code lockout

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If the BECM is unlocked it is possible to programme a new fob/lockset code into it. BECM cannot be unlocked with Nanocom. But can be with BBS MSV2 and expensive software. As far as i am aware it is not possible to read the fob code from an unlocked BECM and write it to a fob.
Wammers, found this post, what constitutes the BECM being locked? Key code lockout having been displayed for 30 mins? (Pls see my Hello post, so Nanocom not my solution?). I've seen your "Don't disconnect battery when car locked", does this imply fob unlocking but residual superlock lying in background?
Thanks,
1999 P38 Bosch 4.6.
 
Wammers, found this post, what constitutes the BECM being locked? Key code lockout having been displayed for 30 mins? (Pls see my Hello post, so Nanocom not my solution?). I've seen your "Don't disconnect battery when car locked", does this imply fob unlocking but residual superlock lying in background?
Thanks,
1999 P38 Bosch 4.6.

If you enter wrong EKA code three times you will get "Key code lockout". You will have to wait until it goes off to try again. Do only twice then open and close drivers for two more tries if you keep doing this you should never get lockout. BECM being locked means certain parameters cannot be accessed until it is unlocked by special software using MSV2. A lot of pennies. It has nothing to do with EKA code. Think i may have said do not remove battery or refit one unless you have a door open. Never with doors shut leave keys in car whilst fitting or removing battery. To remove battery correctly slacken negative terminal. Switch ignition on and off then disconnect battery within 17 seconds. (Before alarm arms). If you remove battery whilst alarm is set then replace it with doors shut car will automatically lock, if your keys are in it and you have no other you are screwed.
 
If you enter wrong EKA code three times you will get "Key code lockout". You will have to wait until it goes off to try again. Do only twice then open and close drivers for two more tries if you keep doing this you should never get lockout. BECM being locked means certain parameters cannot be accessed until it is unlocked by special software using MSV2. A lot of pennies. It has nothing to do with EKA code. Think i may have said do not remove battery or refit one unless you have a door open. Never with doors shut leave keys in car whilst fitting or removing battery. To remove battery correctly slacken negative terminal. Switch ignition on and off then disconnect battery within 17 seconds. (Before alarm arms). If you remove battery whilst alarm is set then replace it with doors shut car will automatically lock, if your keys are in it and you have no other you are screwed.
Thanks for responding.
Your solid advice too late for me, I'm seeing "Key code lockout" and though I've waited for it to expire (with key 1 in pos 2 - Key 2 being used to EKA with all doors shut or key 1 in pos 1), it appears to ignore my EKA (though I've used it multiple times recently) and doesn't re-sync the fob (in ignition). Any further action i.e. Key 1 to pos 3, key 1 to pos 1, opening door results in alarm sounding.
My local mobile auto-electrician company didn't want to know, is only option now to get car to JLR specialist?
 
Thanks for responding.
Your solid advice too late for me, I'm seeing "Key code lockout" and though I've waited for it to expire (with key 1 in pos 2 - Key 2 being used to EKA with all doors shut or key 1 in pos 1), it appears to ignore my EKA (though I've used it multiple times recently) and doesn't re-sync the fob (in ignition). Any further action i.e. Key 1 to pos 3, key 1 to pos 1, opening door results in alarm sounding.
My local mobile auto-electrician company didn't want to know, is only option now to get car to JLR specialist?

You cannot sync fobs unless EKA code has been entered and accepted.
 
Thanks for responding.
Your solid advice too late for me, I'm seeing "Key code lockout" and though I've waited for it to expire (with key 1 in pos 2 - Key 2 being used to EKA with all doors shut or key 1 in pos 1), it appears to ignore my EKA (though I've used it multiple times recently) and doesn't re-sync the fob (in ignition). Any further action i.e. Key 1 to pos 3, key 1 to pos 1, opening door results in alarm sounding.
My local mobile auto-electrician company didn't want to know, is only option now to get car to JLR specialist?

Even JLR are clueless on these cars now. @mozz smith might be able to help you but failing that I think it is BECM out and post to Rick-the-pick at Callrova or @martyuk if he's back home long enough to look at it.
 
It will be the drivers door lock micro switches. If he has done it before and now cannot that is the only realistic thing it can be.
 
Thanks Guys, where @Datatek said "delete the immobiliser as well" is that the equivalent of disabling it (with the Nanocom)?
@mozz smith has been in touch, and if my next attempt fails, I'll be in contact.
Cheers!
Yes disable in the BECM page with Nanocom. With EKA and immobilizer disabled, the car can be operated with just the key if necessary. The alarm should be left active.
 
Yes disable in the BECM page with Nanocom. With EKA and immobilizer disabled, the car can be operated with just the key if necessary. The alarm should be left active.
Thanks, this was the definitive info I wanted. My P38 never left in an "at risk" area, most of the times when I use it, the windows are left open (it's always sunny in Wales) and there's never much fuel left in it, just enough to get to the nearest petrol station, which is about the furthest I go in it.
Is there a specific reason why the alarm should be left activated, other for security of the vehicle?
 
Thanks, this was the definitive info I wanted. My P38 never left in an "at risk" area, most of the times when I use it, the windows are left open (it's always sunny in Wales) and there's never much fuel left in it, just enough to get to the nearest petrol station, which is about the furthest I go in it.
Is there a specific reason why the alarm should be left activated, other for security of the vehicle?
The alarm causes no problem usually and is needed for insurance purposes, it also means the LED on the dash continues to flash when the alarm is active as a warning.
 
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