K&N air filter

classic kev said:

Kydex sounds like it could have a number of uses certainly interesting. Back on topic though, why would you remove the original filter housing - K&N make a replacement that just goes straight in. No need to fabricate adapters and housings I mean why make work for yourself if you don't have to.

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one problem been mised here is kydex is a heat adjustable plastic thus in a hot engine bay could cause a fire hazard?

another point as the air intake for the standard air filter is also in the engine bay and is a restricted nozzle aint it a case of the k&N is better mines done 40,000 miles now with now engine issues engine coming out latter this year for my new 5.2 rv8 conversion so will strip to see what miths are true about filtration and damage to be honest wont find much wrong

K&N do filter, they just clog up and don't flow as much air

vougese39 said:

one problem been mised here is kydex is a heat adjustable plastic thus in a hot engine bay could cause a fire hazard?

another point as the air intake for the standard air filter is also in the engine bay and is a restricted nozzle aint it a case of the k&N is better mines done 40,000 miles now with now engine issues engine coming out latter this year for my new 5.2 rv8 conversion so will strip to see what miths are true about filtration and damage to be honest wont find much wrong

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vougese39 said:

one problem been mised here is kydex is a heat adjustable plastic thus in a hot engine bay could cause a fire hazard?

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For sure, however! If my engine bay got up to the temperature needed to cause Kydex to burn, most of the other components under the bonnet would have already ignited.

Kydex works at between 165C and 204C

Most of the plastic items under the bonnet are thermoformed
I'd better fit an automatic fire suppression system under the bonnet

PS - If you look at the interior of aircraft, all that plastic.....Kydex, pretty confident the air authorities would not allow materials that would combust too easily....

Just a thought.

If ya want better airflow run it without a filter! lol
If ya really wanna go the K&N route get one that fits in the original airbox and if ya worried about air intake temp fit a snorkel so ya get plenty of cool fresh air.
If ya want something that looks gay in the engine bay, go the whole hog n buy freelander.

simples.....

Mammoth said:

For sure, however! If my engine bay got up to the temperature needed to cause Kydex to burn, most of the other components under the bonnet would have already ignited.

Kydex works at between 165C and 204C

Most of the plastic items under the bonnet are thermoformed
I'd better fit an automatic fire suppression system under the bonnet

PS - If you look at the interior of aircraft, all that plastic.....Kydex, pretty confident the air authorities would not allow materials that would combust too easily....

Just a thought.

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Have got under bonnet temp of over 250 degrees under my bonnet after a thrash!

wow... no idea what a normal temperature is, but 250 degrees sounds awfully hot.

So that means the engine is potentially sucking in air that's 230 degrees hotter than it should be (with a K&N cone filter anyway)! Far from ideal, I would think...

Why the hell was it so hot though? Were you not moving when you took the reading? Surely the fan should be pushing more air through than that...

fishsponge said:

wow... no idea what a normal temperature is, but 250 degrees sounds awfully hot.

So that means the engine is potentially sucking in air that's 230 degrees hotter than it should be (with a K&N cone filter anyway)! Far from ideal, I would think...

Why the hell was it so hot though? Were you not moving when you took the reading? Surely the fan should be pushing more air through than that...

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250 degrees C sounds like Bull**** or a direct thermal reads off the fannymould. Can't see many plastics surviving 250C

let alone the insulation etc.

having said that, you could get 250 degree air temps, that doesnt mean everythinmg reaches that temp.

depends how long for aswell i suppose.

if it's getting that hot more ventialtion is needed, 250 degress is ridiculous!

Plenty of expected replies here the reasons
Rrc 3.9 250bhp kenlowe heavy duty kit,
originally I fitted a Rimmer tubular manifolds after some heavy running fast road work and suffered at junctions and heavy traffic cutting out and stalling! Traced the fault to fuel vaporisation in the fuel rail.
I replaced the manifolds due to restriction and fitted a set of headman headers and exhaust rap this greatly dropped the under bonnet temps but last wek one of the manifolds failed! I took the manifold back to the supplier who said the failure was a fault of lean running now as the ecu is chipped to complement the engine improvement and was rolling road mapped this is a incorrect assumption which the guy agreed with and replaced the manifold under warranty but has said he will not warrant any more manifolds if rapped I have fitted the new manifold less rap and left the drivers side to protect the starter motor so.
After hard driving or a thrash it suffers badly hard starting and the odd stalling when very hot since the fitting of the rap the problem has not happened but after not fitting it manifold and thrashed home last nite 20 min latter went out and was again bugger to start when it did it ran ruff like it did 10 months ago

fit louvers to the bonnet to let the hot air out. wraps keep the heat in the manifold which i why pretty much most won't replace if wrapped.

POAH said:

fit louvers to the bonnet to let the hot air out. wraps keep the heat in the manifold which i why pretty much most won't replace if wrapped.

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Good point, when I fitted the new engine I threw away those crappy tin manifold shield and wrapped the manifolds down to the cats, so it does not get 'that' hot under the bonnet....

Here is a snap of my home made K&N filter set up....!
(Wire ties are there as a precaution)

In asnwer to why I changed to a K&N round filter and threw the original box...needed somewhere to fit the LPG vaporiser and ECU