just bought a rangie

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squaddiefox

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canada at the moment
as i said i have just joined! and i just bought my self a 1988 vogue efi! and ive already got a problem, i aint even picked it up yet!:D

my problem is that the oil cooler for the auto box, the one in front of the rad, is leaking not sure to what extent at the moment but was wondering whether it was easy to replace the cooler and/or pipes and what i would need to do it?

cheers

pete
 
as i said i have just joined! and i just bought my self a 1988 vogue efi! and ive already got a problem, i aint even picked it up yet!:D

my problem is that the oil cooler for the auto box, the one in front of the rad, is leaking not sure to what extent at the moment but was wondering whether it was easy to replace the cooler and/or pipes and what i would need to do it?

Download The Range Rover Classic (1987-1991) Workshop Manual HERE

Hope this answers all your questions.
 
Good link Adam, do you have a link for the 1970-1987 Manual and/or Parts Catalogue etc?

Rowland,

I thought the above manual covers it as it starts from 1987, but I could be horribly wrong.

As for the Parts Catalogue, I can't seem to find one although there are separate PDF's for specific jobs or areas on the Classic.

Strangely the Classic has tons of PDF's yet the P38A and L322 only have a single file.

There's obviously more extensive information for the good old RRC, due to the huge fan base.

Is there something in particular your looking for?
 
The cooler in front of the rad is the "bogbrush" cooler.

It's essentialy a pipe (through which the ATF flows) with loads of spikes on it to dissipate the heat.

Being out front, it's out in all the weather, and on these older cars, can rust through....

It's easy enough to change in itself - but fiddly to get to...
It's mounted right infront of the front chassis crossmember.
Haynes manual shows you how to change it...

Contact the Breakers to get another one.

I reccomend that when you change it - flush the new cooler through with something like thinners to ensure there's no crud in it.
Also, it's worth changing the ATF (Auto Trans Fluid) and strainer after you change the cooler.

Draining the ATF is easy - simply undo the drain plug, and let it drain out.

Changing the filter is harder - you need to take off the lower transmission crossmember to get the sump off - taking the crossmember off is the hard bit - it'll be full of rust and mud... once this is off, you drop the transmission sump (removing the dipstick tube first - then removing the 6 bolts holding the sump on) then once the sump is off the filter strainer removalis really simple - 2 or three bolts and it's off.

You can get a strainer kit fron places like mm-4x4 for about £15 that contain everything oyu need..

You need to be meticulous about ensuring that no dirt entres the transmisison - really be careful - any dirt can mess it up big time.

Once the strainer is in, refit the sump using the new gasket (comes with the kit), reconnect the dipstick tube, and refill the transmission (it will take about a gallon and a half of fluid (dexron 2 or 3).

You fill the transmission through the dipstick tube - slowly - and it'll all be fine...
 
Rowland,

I thought the above manual covers it as it starts from 1987, but I could be horribly wrong.

There's obviously more extensive information for the good old RRC, due to the huge fan base.

Is there something in particular your looking for?

No, not looking for anything in particular....

I own a 1980 two-door classic and am hoping to track down a very early 1970s example too, so a pre-1987 manual and/or parts list would be handy.

Rowland.
 
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