jatco drive in 1 and 4 only

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this is what is stripped so far , have not found anything broken , or o rings split .
The worst thing is scored almost to metal in a couple of places on the smaller diameter friction plates , dont know if it shows on pics .
do I need to pull anything more out of the gearbox , ie there is a circular plate with a circlip to the lower right on the gearbox pic under the wing view ?
 

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Here is a couple more pics of whats been taken out
 

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tacr2man said:
this is what is stripped so far , have not found anything broken , or o rings split .
The worst thing is scored almost to metal in a couple of places on the smaller diameter friction plates , dont know if it shows on pics .
do I need to pull anything more out of the gearbox , ie there is a circular plate with a circlip to the lower right on the gearbox pic under the wing view ?
Click to expand...
laswt picture good clutch next one back need better pic looks black
 
Is the first one still going ok after the solenoid change? How you getting on with the repair of the second one?
 
The first one the solenoid fixed it completely:) The other one was a bit more complicated, the solenoid change sorted the rough changing , but due to being driven i suspect for too long with the first problem it caused the second, which was slipping drive in 4 and 5 . This overheated the fixed plates and the smaller diameter friction plates were badly scored same with their fixed plates , I used The Automatic Gearbox Company for parts , and they were very helpful , showed me where the piston had fractured , and supplied and rebuilt the reverse and high clutch unit (needs tool) I then rebuilt the rest of the box (had to get a self designed special tool made) to enable this as SOP uses a special tool put in from other side of box which i could not do as the box was still in the car ! . The car has since been up to Snowdonia for a week with my daughter on holiday and has performed perfectly I am relieved to say :cool: I have used Carlube ATF-U (full synthetic) in both vehicles as they say its a sub for 402 on container. £20+ for 4.55 ltrs at GSF . I would say that doing in car is certainly possible with a bit of care . I also had to remove the valve body to replace the two seals behind as one goes thru main gearbox wall to connect to one of the piston bodies , which tends to damage the seal when being refitted as the seals harden a bit with use . So fingers crossed at the moment :D HTSH
 
Thanks. Interesting fred this. What sealer did you use to refit the solenoid tin cover? Are the solenoids easy to change when the tin lid is removed to gain access - pull/screw out and replace solenoid and job done? Did you get loads more auto oil coming out when taking the tin cover off the front of the solenoids?
 
The solenoids are very easy , literally undo the securing screws (10mm head) and unclip wire (colour coded connectors) , and plug in new solenoid and refit wire.
The front pan comes off easily (apart from loads of m6 hex screws) , after you have diconnected bottom hose (each end) and undo the two pipes that go into main gearbox front alongside pan from fluid intercooler , better than trying to undo the pipe at intercooler end , Then three fixings for fluid intercooler, allows pipework and cooler to drop down out of way , then undo the two jatco multiplugs . IIRC there is only a little oil from pan . The two four duty solenoid and other 2/4 solenoid is down on n/s bottom.
There is a mazda jatco manual pdf available online , there were a couple of minor differences that i noticed . I used a normal rtv sealant for the pan and end cover, on the pan i just gave it a light smear on the existing sealnt left on pan so as to not get excess squeased into box. There are 10 long bolts that hold the valve block in place , its quite heavy when you are lying down under front !! When you fit back into place you need to make sure that the manual valve connection (only one) slots into the quadrant , done with trans selector in low(1) position and the end of the valve block slide poking out of nearside end about 5mm IIRC , you can check engagement by oprating gear selector . HTSH
 
Thanks all. Found the Mazda stuff. I’ve attacked it here so other peeps can find it.

Mine has a slight bump when going in/out of drive/reverse. Most the time you don't get it. It's just a louder shift than normal, with a jolt rather than slow take up of gear/movement. Not too concerned about it at the moment. Only do low miles per year. Just getting ready in my mind on what needs to be done for repair etc. Spent far too much on it. I keep thinking “this little fix will be the last” and “I’ve got this far… it’s a waste not to fix this last fault”

I think it would be betterer fixed than left, but it's ok for now. All other gear to gear shifts when driving are ok. It's no where near as bad as the auto it replaced, which leaked and banged into gear as if you'd been shunted while stationary at a few mph. When the current auto was fitted it was unbelievably smooth.

Well done to Mazda man for the write up too. Mazda links:

2003 Jatco Auto trans slipping in 3rd - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
 

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Hi,
let me first introduce myself. I am Matthias, bought a FL1 td4 Auto last year and have the same or similar prob. Failure F4 is shown and I tried to measure the solenoids after LR went in to measure the failure codes. It shows P0753 which is solenoid a (defect) no resistance, P01748 and some other failures which are minor. I went into blacklandy.de and a guy there helped me quite far but couldn't tell about the resistance values the solenoids should have.

Pin 17 and Pin 3 - 2-4-brake solenoid 4.8
Pin 17 and Pin 4 - 2-4-Bremstaktventil 17.8-18
Pin 17 and Pin10 - Reduziertaktventil 17.8-18
Pin 17 and Pin14 - solenoid B 17.9-18
Pin 17 and Pin15 - solenoid A ---
Pin 17 and Pin16 - Wandlerüberbrückungsmagnetventil 16.8-18.8
Pin 17 and Pin18 - Arbeitsdruckbetriebsventil 4,8
Pin 17 and Pin52 - solenoid C 18,6/18,8
Pin 17 and Pin53 - L-Kupplungstaktventil 18.8

Pin 9 and Pin 3 --- oder 4,8
Pin 20 and Pin 3 ---
Pin 9 and Pin 15 ---
Pin 20 and Pin 15 ---

Sorry Am not sure about the english names of the solenoids. Hope it's possible to figure it out with the pins. The one on pin 53 was Zero at first and when weather cleared up and it got warmer it changed to the above. I think there might be anything wrong with it as well. Same was with 2-4 brake solenoid. Pin 16 was at first 4.8 and with weather conditions changing went up also (at least that's my guess about the Change of values). I guess it might be a good idea to Change all three if the resistance is out of range.

@tacr2man: do you still have the specs Sheets you found on the Internet? Which values are shown for brake 2-4, and the clutch one on pin 53?
The oil was fine when drained first yesterday. looked light brown so I guess no mechanical prob as far as I understood.

The link to Mazda pdf didn't work anymore. If anyone still would have the file that would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards
Matthias
 
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not able to access info untill thurs night , but will try and answer your questions then :welcome:
 
 
great thx. In one the Sheets are the resistance values right?. I am checking with my values and see when I measure the valve directly. I think your list is different. I have a 2002 model and on pin 15 is Solenoid A.

Well the guy from Germany told me the common one shall be 17 for ground.

Matthias
 
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I have 2x v6 Jatco auto's and pin 18 is less than 1 ohm to ground (metal case), and is the one I use to measure all values. It says 18 in the bottom link above on the 3rd page. That document covers the 2004 onwards Freelander fitted with the Jatco but I guess they were all the same connections unless some knows different..
 
well there seems to be a difference. on pin 15 I have teh 2-4 brake duty Solenoid valve while in the 2004 it Shows the pressure control Solenoid which is on pin 16 on your sheet. I guess the resistance might be right still. what does tcc Solenoid mean. I can't get it together with sheet on page 44-4 Rave.
 
TCC stands for torque converter solenoid.

Link 5 above also says pin 18 is the common. You need to make sure your results are for the Freelander version of the Jatco. The barrel connectors seem to have different pin designs when comparing the Freelander to non Freelander cars fitted with the Jatco. I have a spare broken Jatco from a v6 Freelander so I will take the lid off that and see where the wires go, compared to the solenoid layout pic in rave.
 
I answered yesterday but think didn't press the button to submit. Anyway here are the results resistance:[URL=http://www.file-upload.net/download-7550500/1--jatco.pdf.html]1--jatco.pdf[/URL]

V(alve)-Nr.: V(alve) to V-Block (Ground: Jatco plugs to ATC: round plug outside to ATC:

1 17,8 P15:--- ---
2 17,9/18 P10:1,6 --
3 17,8/17,9 PP14:1,6 01,6
4 17,9 P52:01,6 01,7
5 04,3 P3:01,6 01,6
6 17,9 P4:01,8 01,6
7 17,8 P53:01,7 01,6
8 1,5 P16:01,6 01,7
9 couldn't measure P18:dto 01,7


AUTOMATIC GEARBOX - JATCO
44-4 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
JATCO Automatic Gearbox - Valve Block
and Solenoid Valves
1 Shift solenoid valve A
2 Reduction timing solenoid valve
3 Shift solenoid valve B
4 Shift solenoid valve C
5 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve
6 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve
7 Low clutch timing solenoid valve
8 Lock-up solenoid valve
9 Line pressure duty solenoid valve

Regards
Matthias
 
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