Hello, could you please tell me size or link for level plug washer and if the drain plug uses a washer too, if so what size.It's all ok now. Thanks for asking.
I've set the auto oil level to the correct level, and it's working ok. Done about 50 miles on it making sure it's all ok. It also restarts ok and drives ok when hot too, which is a good sign.
LR part no for oil STC50531 for LRN402 Jatco auto oil 1L
Drain plug washer TEB100040L
I've used the correct auto oil for the Jatco sold by land rover main dealers. It's approx. £10 plus vat, but the price does vary a little and it's considered expensive. I bought else where in 20L drums a lot cheaper per L.
Other oils are available. Check it's suitable before use. Be careful.
The correct service schedule for the auto oil change on the Freelander 1 auto is every 60k miles, and every 60k there after. This is the 5th year service. Replacing the oil early has on many occasions cured all sorts of issues. The correct procedure has to be followed. Both Haynes and Land Rover make a big deal out of this, so there must be a good reason.
My auto seems to have been over filled by 0.7L of oil. When setting the oil level, after leaving to drain when cold, it takes 3.56L to set the level correctly using the correct procedure. I did this by adding 3.5L of oil first, then added 3x 0.09L of oil with a syringe. 0.21L fell out. This was all done at the correct auto fluid temp. I didn't bother measuring the internal temperature resistor via the barrel connectors as mine seems be a little out from what the spec sheet suggests. I assume this is because the auto computer is still attached in circuit at the other end. Disconnecting the auto's computer when the engine's running isn't something you should do. I used Freelance's idea of poking a thermometer through the filler hole. Takes about 5 minutes on engine tick over only, from cold, to get the auto oil up to the correct temp range of 35 to 45 degrees C. If you were to drive the vehicle for 5 to 10 minutes, like they advise in the Haynes manual, then you'd have auto oil at too higher a temperature to check the level. Don't follow any advice to drive it. On tick over it seems the engine coolant heats up the auto oil as they both pass through the auto oil cooler. The oil cooler/coolant temperature rises ahead of the auto oil. It's important to note the engine must be running in order to check the oil level on the Jatco. This allows the oil pump to fill the torque converter, whilst you set the correct oil level. Have to admit I was nervous of this when I tried setting the auto oil level the first time.
I used this thermometer: https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ht-wide-range-probe-thermometer-l55an
All my measurements were done with a measuring cylinder and syringe. The car was on level ground. Tyres at the correct psi. If I've replaced 3.56L of oil, when the auto is filled from dry with 8.5L (source rave disk) then my fluid change of 3.56L has replaced 42% of the existing oil (3.56 / 8.5). Hence 4.93L or 58% (1 - (3.5 / 8.5)) of the original oil is still left in the auto after the first change, out of 8.5L in total. If you were to do a second oil change after running the car to mix the oil, then (1 - (3.56 / 8.5)) x 4.93 = 2.9L of original oil left, out of 8.5L in total. A third oil change would leave (1 - (3.56 / 8.5)) x 2.9 = 1.7L of original oil left, out of 8.5L in total. This is all because a certain amount of oil stays present in the torque converter when the engines switched off. Each subsequent oil change should still set the level correctly as per the instructions. This is all based on the oil being well mixed prior to the next change.
I was correct in saying the later Freelander 1 Jatco auto J506E uses a 14mm hex bolt for the oil level check. Previously they used a 5mm Allen key. The bolt has a thread about 12mm long. Both are 14Nm and the drain plug is 24mm 45Nm. Both are located on the bottom of the auto as shown in the photo below. I plan to do 2 further oil changes to flush out the additive the garage incorrectly put in my auto. It's a good idea to have a look round all the cooler oil pipes to see if you've got a slow auto oil leak while your checking the level. I also understand there's an oil filter inside the Jatco. This is not a serviceable item. The auto needs taking apart to change this. If your auto needs this doing, then there's a good chance there's something gone horribly wrong which will also need the auto taken apart to be fixed.
Prior to the following Haynes instructions, I drained my auto of approx 3.5L and refilled it with 3.5L new oil.
Automatic fluid level check.
The fluid level must be checked with the fluid at a temperature of 35 to 45 degrees C. To achieve this temperature, take the vehicle for a drive of approximately 5 to 10 miles. [DON'T DRIVE THE FREELANDER 5 TO 10 MILES (OR ANY MILES) DURING THE LEVEL CHECK. THE AUTO WILL BE TOO HOT. SEE EXPLANATION BELOW IN RED] [I didn't do this as this distance is far too long so the oil will be a lot hotter than it should be for the level check. I left mine on tick over form cold as per the LR preferred method. Took approx 5 minutes to reach the correct temperature which I measured. Time will vary depending on ambient temperature and if it's a v6 or Td4. So best to measure it. If you don't have something to measure the temperature like a thermometer, then buy one.] If possible, the temperature of the fluid should be checked with a thermometer through the oil filler aperture on the top of the transmission. [I checked the temp through the filler aperture too]
With the fluid at the appropriate temperature, position the vehicle over an inspection pit, on vehicle ramps, or jack it up, but make sure it is level. Release the retaining screws and remove the transmission undertray.
Start the engine and move the selector level from P through all the gear positions for 2 to 3 seconds, then return it to the P position.
With the engine still running, remove all traces of dirt from around the level plug. Unscrew the plug and allow any excess fluid to drain off. Discard the drain washer, a new one must be fitted.
If no fluid spills out, pull of the filler plug from the top of the transmission, and add fluid until it just begins to spill from the level hole.
Move the selector from P through each gear position and back to P. Allow any excess fluid to spill from the level hole.
Wipe the level plug with a clean rag fit the new washer. Clean the area around the level plug opening the refit the plug, complete with the washer, tightening to the specified torque. [14Nm] Refit the engine/transmission undertray, and where necessary, lower the vehicle to the ground. Refit the filler plug.
Don't drive the Freelander for 5 to 10 miles during the level check as some sources suggest. As said in an earlier post this is not the right thing to do as the auto and it's oil will get too hot. The auto oil level check should be done from cold, using the engine on tick over to heat the auto's oil, to the correct temperature.
Why? Auto oil specification's include anti foaming chemicals. The chemical's stop the auto oil from foaming up when it's pumped at pressure around the auto. If the oil foams it will aerate the oil. Think of an aero chocolate bar where the chocolate contains lots of small air bubbles, which expand the volume of chocolate. This is not good for an auto. When the engine is left on tick over the auto oil is gently pumped around the oil pipes and solenoid's etc to prime the system full of oil and purge out any air. The rest of the oil sits in the bottom of the auto where the level check pipe is located. Cycling through the gear lever options assists this process as it makes sure all solenoids are filled/primed with oil. When the auto oil is at the correct temperature the level check can be done. Driving the Freelander may cause the auto oil to partially aerate as well as get too hot. Hence why it shouldn't be driven during the level check. Source = Land Rover direct.
I don't approve of any other text detailing the method of an auto oil change on a Freelander 1 on LandyZone or any other web site, unless I have personally posted my agreement to the method in my own post on that thread. Any references to myself, my photo's or my Hippo username by other members has nothing to do with me.
Freelander 1 auto oil filler plug:
P9171138 qnOWsHc
Freelander 1 auto drain plug, new washer and drain aperture:
P4041801 abVVc6H
P4041803 2N5b2Vc
Freelander 1 auto drain plug and level check plug locations:
P4051811 MNkPShY
New oil should look like this:
P4041804 ZqYTiSb
2001 Freelander 1 v6 auto:
P9171139 HuQYElR
Thanks
